Rebuild of Maytag Transmission and Transplant into LAT 9800 AAW.

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Tub was cleaned, rust removed from damaged porcelain and JB Weld used to repair rusted areas days before. I gave the restored tub bearing a light coating of turbine oil on the outside and pushed back into the tub. I think I was able to push it in with the palm of my hand.

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Covered the trans. with a plastic bag and then used duct tape around the edge to keep paint and JB Weld off the trans. collar. Sprayed the spline with Rust-Oleum cold galvanizing compound.

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I coated the top of the agitator drive shaft with JB Weld thinned with a little water and applied it with a short bristled 1/2 inch wide synthetic artist brush. Don't get carried away with the JB Weld or the stop ring and agitator won't go back on the shaft. This was the only thing I could think of to seal that raw metal. The rust proof coating was long ago rusted away. It will need to dry as long as possible before re-assembly.

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Coated self-cleaning filters with two coats of JB Weld (one on each side) to create blanks. Blanks used to be available but I couldn't find any.

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Put a thin film of dish liquid on the bottom inside of the boot seal and the outside of the tub flange. Grasp the boot seal by the bottom and twist the boot clockwise down onto the flange. Don't grab, squeeze or push on the top of the boot where the carbon ring is. If you damage the ring it's ruined. Keep twisting and pushing down until the boot is against the tub bottom. I struggled with this step quite a bit.

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If you have an agitator drive shaft seal, grease it and put it on the shaft with the small side down until it contacts the drive shaft collar. The agitator drive shaft seal was a NOS with a different type of grease than was in the stem seal. Since greases with different types of soap bases aren't supposed to be mixed, I washed the old grease out of the seal with hot water, dish liquid and a toothbrush, being careful not to disturb the spring and washer within. Then I blew the water out with compressed air until totally dry and re-greased the seal with the same type of grease that was in the mounting stem. I used NAPA Premium Performance Multi-Purpose Wheel Bearing And Chassis Grease. It's a lithium complex NLGI No. 2 Consistency. It comes in a 16oz. blue and white plastic container. It's the same color (light honey brown), consistency and smell as the grease that comes in the mounting stem. The amount they placed inside the mounting stem was so small I felt it needed some extra. There was no way to use these parts together without the grease mixing.

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