Rebuild of Maytag Transmission and Transplant into LAT 9800 AAW.

[beekeyknee]

Close-up of tub bearing installed. It turned out really nice. Better and cheaper than a new one in my case.

 

[beekeyknee]

Covered the trans. with a plastic bag and then used duct tape around the edge to keep paint and JB Weld off the trans. collar. Sprayed the spline with Rust-Oleum cold galvanizing compound.

 

[beekeyknee]

I coated the top of the agitator drive shaft with JB Weld thinned with a little water and applied it with a short bristled 1/2 inch wide synthetic artist brush. Don't get carried away with the JB Weld or the stop ring and agitator won't go back on the shaft. This was the only thing I could think of to seal that raw metal. The rust proof coating was long ago rusted away. It will need to dry as long as possible before re-assembly.

 

[beekeyknee]

Dropped trans. down into brake.

 

[beekeyknee]

Coated self-cleaning filters with two coats of JB Weld (one on each side) to create blanks. Blanks used to be available but I couldn't find any.

 

[beekeyknee]

Put spin tube over neck of trans. and carefully lowered the tub over the tube.

 

[beekeyknee]

Underneath view after replacing tub.

 

[beekeyknee]

Post-it on base with eye-bolt thread count for reference.

 

[beekeyknee]

Line up holes in tub with holes in braces and put tub bolts through. Short bolt goes up front by "Caution" label.

 

[beekeyknee]

Put bleach deflector in hole with opening pointing counterclockwise.

 

[beekeyknee]

Here's the order for placement of parts on tub bolts. You should keep these parts for re-use after disassembling.

 

[beekeyknee]

Here's the short bolt up front.

 

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Hold the bolt still on the inside of the tub with a wrench and tighten the nut on the outside with a socket.

 

[beekeyknee]

Put some turbine oil down between the tub bearing and the spin tube.

 

[beekeyknee]

Gathering the last replacement parts. Old and new stem mount in view.

 

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Rolling large O-ring over agitator shaft collar.

 

[beekeyknee]

O-ring in chamfer.

 

[beekeyknee]

Put a thin film of dish liquid on the bottom inside of the boot seal and the outside of the tub flange. Grasp the boot seal by the bottom and twist the boot clockwise down onto the flange. Don't grab, squeeze or push on the top of the boot where the carbon ring is. If you damage the ring it's ruined. Keep twisting and pushing down until the boot is against the tub bottom. I struggled with this step quite a bit.

 

[beekeyknee]

If you have an agitator drive shaft seal, grease it and put it on the shaft with the small side down until it contacts the drive shaft collar. The agitator drive shaft seal was a NOS with a different type of grease than was in the stem seal. Since greases with different types of soap bases aren't supposed to be mixed, I washed the old grease out of the seal with hot water, dish liquid and a toothbrush, being careful not to disturb the spring and washer within. Then I blew the water out with compressed air until totally dry and re-greased the seal with the same type of grease that was in the mounting stem. I used NAPA Premium Performance Multi-Purpose Wheel Bearing And Chassis Grease. It's a lithium complex NLGI No. 2 Consistency. It comes in a 16oz. blue and white plastic container. It's the same color (light honey brown), consistency and smell as the grease that comes in the mounting stem. The amount they placed inside the mounting stem was so small I felt it needed some extra. There was no way to use these parts together without the grease mixing.

 

[beekeyknee]

Close-up view.

 

[beekeyknee]

Grease the inside of the mounting stem threads and put it over the drive shaft. Tighten the mounting stem by turning it counterclockwise. It has left-handed threads. After you have tightened it by hand, put the spanner wrench on it and tap it a few times with a rubber mallet till snug. Hopefully after it's tightened the set screw will not be in line with a water relief groove. The set screw cannot be tightened in this position. It has to bite into the threads on the trans. neck for proper operation. If you find the set screw has stopped parallel to one of the water relief grooves, you can try and tap the spanner wrench a few more times so the set screw will pass the groove and will bite the threads in the neck. You can't be to close to the groove when tightening the screw or it may slip off the threads and bust over into the groove. When I tightened the mounting stem on this machine I found the set screw to stop exactly over one of the grooves and the mounting wouldn't tighten any further so I had to loosen the mounting a bit and tighten the set screw on the other side of the groove. It wasn't what I wanted to do, but there was no choice. It worked and the washer is functioning fine. The marks on the bottom of the tub correspond to the grooves on the trans. neck. You have to make sure the trans. doesn't turn when tightening the mounting stem or the marks have no relevance. Put plenty of grease in the set screw hole before tightening. If the set screw disappears into the mounting stem when tightening you most likely have stopped over a groove. The screw should be tightened enough to make a dimple in the neck but not so hard as to cause the bushing to bind the agitator drive shaft. A good mechanic usually has a feel for this type of thing and knows when to quit, unless the tolerances are with in a narrow range. I haven't found the need for any type of torque guage or wrench when working on a Maytag washer. The tolerances just aren't that narrow. The agitator stop ring (not pictured) goes into the groove on the shaft above the mounting stem seal.[this post was last edited: 2/8/2012-09:06]

 

[beekeyknee]

Hang the springs in the tub supports, tip the tub toward the back of the machine and hook the back springs in the eye-bolts. A ratchet strap will work to connect the front spring. Hook one end of a ratchet strap on the front of the tub, the other under the base and tighten the ratchet until the front spring will connect to the eye-bolt. Put a little grease on the springs where they touch the holes on the tub supports and where they go through the eye-bolts to slow down wear. Tighten the eye-bolt nuts so the amount of threads above the nuts are about the same as the number counted before the machine was dissembled. The spring in the front should be tightened slightly more than the ones in the back for proper operation of the out of balance shut-off. That usually translates into three or four less threads above the eye-bolt nut in the front. Remember when tightening the eye-bolts from above the nut must be turned to the left, or counterclockwise. Later you can check the adjustment of these bolts by washing an item that you know tends to cause out of balance conditions. I have a heavy robe that soaks up a lot of water and is very heavy when wet. I use it to adjust the centering springs for proper operation of the out of balance mechanism.

 

[beekeyknee]

Center the wash basket on the mounting stem, put on the mounting stem cover and tighten the spanner nut.

 

[beekeyknee]

I snapped the covers into the holes in the bottom of the wash basket.

 

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Popped in the agitator.

 

[beekeyknee]

Put on the motor, the pump and the hoses.

 

[beekeyknee]

Put the belts on. The ones on the 408 must have been replaced recently. They were in very good shape and had more cloth on them than new ones, so I used them.

 

[beekeyknee]

Made a diagram, took out the switches, submerged them in kerosene and operated them while submerged, dried them overnight, sprayed them down with silicone, blew out excess silicone, let them sit again overnight, used a wet vac to suck out silicone from openings and seams in the switches, wiped the switches down and re-installed them.

 

[beekeyknee]

I decided to take the timer out of the control panel for cleaning and lubrication. This machine doesn't have a chrome cap for the timer knob like the older Maytag automatics. The chrome piece is glued to a plastic cap and the cap and chrome piece come off together to expose the clip that holds the knob on the timer shaft. I popped this piece off, took off the clip and knob, took out the hex screws that hold the timer to the control panel, made a diagram of where all the many wires attach to the timer, detached them, took the timer motor off, and gave the timer the same treatment as I did the switches in reply number 147.[this post was last edited: 2/8/2012-09:12]

 

[beekeyknee]

Here's a picture of the timer after the treatment. It's a Kingston timer. You may be able to see its name stamped in the metal just to the left of the Maytag logo and part number. This timer runs very quietly now and turns with ease. I give this treatment to all switches and timers on older machines. I only omit this step if the parts seem very clean and work smoothly and quietly. I believe this greatly extends the life of the part and as these parts are expensive and sometimes hard, if not impossible to find, it's important. Some old timers and switches have wording, markings and designs on them that might be damaged by this process. In that case I would test the areas in question in an inconspicuous or small spot before proceeding. Otherwise I think it's a great way to recondition the parts. It is best to have an air compressor for this step. And a wet vac doesn't hurt. I have experimented on spare parts in the past. I infuse the kerosene with a little oil before I dip it and then let it dry completely. When the kerosene evaporates it leaves a light coating of oil on the part. I wipe the outside down, operate the part, and re-connect it to check it's function in the machine. This is an option if you don't want to spend the money on an air compressor and wet vac.