Rebuild of Maytag Transmission and Transplant into LAT 9800 AAW.

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

Help Support :

Grease the inside of the mounting stem threads and put it over the drive shaft. Tighten the mounting stem by turning it counterclockwise. It has left-handed threads. After you have tightened it by hand, put the spanner wrench on it and tap it a few times with a rubber mallet till snug. Hopefully after it's tightened the set screw will not be in line with a water relief groove. The set screw cannot be tightened in this position. It has to bite into the threads on the trans. neck for proper operation. If you find the set screw has stopped parallel to one of the water relief grooves, you can try and tap the spanner wrench a few more times so the set screw will pass the groove and will bite the threads in the neck. You can't be to close to the groove when tightening the screw or it may slip off the threads and bust over into the groove. When I tightened the mounting stem on this machine I found the set screw to stop exactly over one of the grooves and the mounting wouldn't tighten any further so I had to loosen the mounting a bit and tighten the set screw on the other side of the groove. It wasn't what I wanted to do, but there was no choice. It worked and the washer is functioning fine. The marks on the bottom of the tub correspond to the grooves on the trans. neck. You have to make sure the trans. doesn't turn when tightening the mounting stem or the marks have no relevance. Put plenty of grease in the set screw hole before tightening. If the set screw disappears into the mounting stem when tightening you most likely have stopped over a groove. The screw should be tightened enough to make a dimple in the neck but not so hard as to cause the bushing to bind the agitator drive shaft. A good mechanic usually has a feel for this type of thing and knows when to quit, unless the tolerances are with in a narrow range. I haven't found the need for any type of torque guage or wrench when working on a Maytag washer. The tolerances just aren't that narrow. The agitator stop ring (not pictured) goes into the groove on the shaft above the mounting stem seal.[this post was last edited: 2/8/2012-09:06]

beekeyknee++2-8-2012-07-46-11.jpg
 
Hang the springs in the tub supports, tip the tub toward the back of the machine and hook the back springs in the eye-bolts. A ratchet strap will work to connect the front spring. Hook one end of a ratchet strap on the front of the tub, the other under the base and tighten the ratchet until the front spring will connect to the eye-bolt. Put a little grease on the springs where they touch the holes on the tub supports and where they go through the eye-bolts to slow down wear. Tighten the eye-bolt nuts so the amount of threads above the nuts are about the same as the number counted before the machine was dissembled. The spring in the front should be tightened slightly more than the ones in the back for proper operation of the out of balance shut-off. That usually translates into three or four less threads above the eye-bolt nut in the front. Remember when tightening the eye-bolts from above the nut must be turned to the left, or counterclockwise. Later you can check the adjustment of these bolts by washing an item that you know tends to cause out of balance conditions. I have a heavy robe that soaks up a lot of water and is very heavy when wet. I use it to adjust the centering springs for proper operation of the out of balance mechanism.

beekeyknee++2-8-2012-07-48-27.jpg
 
Put the belts on. The ones on the 408 must have been replaced recently. They were in very good shape and had more cloth on them than new ones, so I used them.

beekeyknee++2-8-2012-07-54-19.jpg
 
Made a diagram, took out the switches, submerged them in kerosene and operated them while submerged, dried them overnight, sprayed them down with silicone, blew out excess silicone, let them sit again overnight, used a wet vac to suck out silicone from openings and seams in the switches, wiped the switches down and re-installed them.

beekeyknee++2-8-2012-07-55-35.jpg
 
I decided to take the timer out of the control panel for cleaning and lubrication. This machine doesn't have a chrome cap for the timer knob like the older Maytag automatics. The chrome piece is glued to a plastic cap and the cap and chrome piece come off together to expose the clip that holds the knob on the timer shaft. I popped this piece off, took off the clip and knob, took out the hex screws that hold the timer to the control panel, made a diagram of where all the many wires attach to the timer, detached them, took the timer motor off, and gave the timer the same treatment as I did the switches in reply number 147.[this post was last edited: 2/8/2012-09:12]

beekeyknee++2-8-2012-07-56-41.jpg
 
Here's a picture of the timer after the treatment. It's a Kingston timer. You may be able to see its name stamped in the metal just to the left of the Maytag logo and part number. This timer runs very quietly now and turns with ease. I give this treatment to all switches and timers on older machines. I only omit this step if the parts seem very clean and work smoothly and quietly. I believe this greatly extends the life of the part and as these parts are expensive and sometimes hard, if not impossible to find, it's important. Some old timers and switches have wording, markings and designs on them that might be damaged by this process. In that case I would test the areas in question in an inconspicuous or small spot before proceeding. Otherwise I think it's a great way to recondition the parts. It is best to have an air compressor for this step. And a wet vac doesn't hurt. I have experimented on spare parts in the past. I infuse the kerosene with a little oil before I dip it and then let it dry completely. When the kerosene evaporates it leaves a light coating of oil on the part. I wipe the outside down, operate the part, and re-connect it to check it's function in the machine. This is an option if you don't want to spend the money on an air compressor and wet vac.

beekeyknee++2-8-2012-07-58-8.jpg
 
Preparing the washer for its run in. I needed to spin the basket to mate the mounting stem and boot seal. The instructions that came with the mounting stem and boot seal said to install the parts and not put any grease or oil on the carbon face of the boot seal before putting the machine into spin. The service manual said to put a light film of turbine oil on the boot seal face before installing the mounting stem. I opted for the later. I assembled the machine to this point by laying the machine top on the floor, making the connections to the motor per my diagram and instructions I had made at disassembly, blew into the air dome until I heard the water level switch click, clamped the hose with some Vice-grips, turned the timer knob to spin and pulled out the knob. The machine started to spin, the wash basket seemed well centered and the machine was pretty stable even though it was not completely assembled and was on carpet. I let it spin this way for several minutes. If there's any residual oil on the trans., the trans. bolts aren't tight enough or the tub bearing has a bit to much turbine oil in it, the machine will fling oil out from underneath the tub during the spin. Some small specks were coming out during the first couple of minutes. The machine was in a small hallway with paneled walls. I took a cloth and went around the room and wiped the specks off the wall. No harm done. If you're concerned about this you might want to do it outside or in a garage or area that doesn't matter. I took a wrench and went around the trans. and tightened the bolts again. As the new gasket gets saturated with oil it seems to soften a bit and the bolts can be tightened some more. Then I took a rag and wiped the tub, trans., and base down again. Then I turned the knob to wash and let the machine run in the agitate mode for a few minutes. This also worked fine. Then I finished assembling the machine.

beekeyknee++2-8-2012-07-59-41.jpg
 
Time for a water test to check for leaks. The cabinet's back on and all the hoses are attached. The tub cover isn't on yet and the agitator isn't in yet, as can be seen. I don't want that air bubble under the agitator. I want the water to get to all possible leak spots. I'm doing a manual fill with a garden hose. That will work for now. I know the water valve works anyway, as I did a test run when I got the machine to check it's functions.

beekeyknee++2-8-2012-08-00-55.jpg
 
Success. No leaks. Way before this step I made sure the tub, tub cover and tub clamp were clean and mineral free. Polishing the inside edge of the tub, the outside edge of the tub cover and wiping down the tub cover gasket with Pledge makes installing and adjusting the tub cover much easier. Adjust the tub cover to top clearance ( I set mine at around 1/4 inch, close but not touching), slip the tub cover gasket down to the tub edge while holding the tub cover to keep the cover to top clearance from changing, put on the tub cover clamp and tighten (put the tub cover bolts in the 2 and 8 o'clock position, back right and front left corners within the cabinet), connected the water injector, tighten down the machine top, put in the agitator, fill the machine with water, spin out the water and checked for tub cover leaks during spin drain. Then filled the machine with warm water and clothes and did the first wash test. It passed. The out of balance test passed too.

beekeyknee++2-8-2012-08-02-30.jpg
 

Similar threads

murando531
My dream KitchenAid washer is finally a reality
Replies
15
Views
30
combo52
combo52
J
Help! Maytag washer dumping grease on my clothes from agitator shaft seal
Replies
5
Views
6
jon4maytag
J
qsd-dan
Maytag Transmission Rebuild Inquiry
Replies
15
Views
16
mistereric
mistereric

Latest posts

Back
Top