"Studies in the LGeeee" aka, WILD TURBO PIX

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SECOND SPRAY AT 1200

THE PULSATOR'S LINT CHASER ON THE BACKGROUND PAGE CHOPPED OFF THE SPRAY VALVE --hate it when that happens;'D

mickeyd++4-29-2014-12-45-28.jpg
 
OOPS !

The cooldown and the rinse pix are the same; let me see how, where, and why I goofed and then I'll fix it.
 
YAY! THANK YOU, JESUS, AS MY AUNT ALICE ALWAYS SAID

I found it ; you can see the spray from above, the current hitting the back of the tub--how I love it! This was at the end of the one minute cool down.

mickeyd++4-29-2014-13-13-9.jpg
 
The pics are great

did you also post a video of an over suds and how the machine handled it or were you just talking about it, my mind is not serving me correctly.If you do have a video of it with over suds I'd like to see how it did handle the sudsing.
Tks
 
HI GUYS

Roscoe  ~

 

It was interesting to see; had used too much Persil Liquid Gold, and after the tub drained,  heavy suds were half way up the window. Remembered a short mention of automatic suds control--no details provided--in the terse, unsatisfying manual. So I watched, full of anticipation and wonder. The LG did a series of tumbles, spins,  and drains, and slowly but surely the suds dispersed; it took about maybe ten minutes. Surprised that no water was added. Basically,  the load whacked the suds back and forth and around compressing the suds into soapy water which the pump took away in stages as it cycled on and off intermittently.

 

You memory is perfect because I did mention this feature, suds elimination, but had not seen it, and hoped to film it, but this oversudsing episode was an accident. Thanks. My favorite shot is the last one which I almost lost. Hence, the Jesus! (smiling). 

 

Darren  ~

 

You really did the shot justice, making it much closer to the real thing. It's beautiful. Flying water currents are hard to capture. I need a slow speed camera to catch this stuff. Guess I'll add that to the bucket list.  Thank you.

 

Gene  ~  Only recently did I learn that the Frigi recirculates. How and where does your spray originate?  T'anks, Hank ;'D

 
 
My LGs have recirculating spray but,one nozzle,not three or four. WM2277 and WM247 are the two of three models . The 8000s are a bit bigger and have the Turbo Wash. These all do a spectacular job in getting your clothes reap clean and well wrung out. The average drying time in the dryers is 24 minutes.
 
LG Turbo Wash Front Load

Hi Mickey,

The video and following photos are terrific and really show how this washer functions. I am shortly going to be in the market for a new washer and am seriously considering this washer. Are you satisfied with the way it washes your clothes? It is better than the LG without the turbo wash? Is there water in the bottom of the tub during the wash? Is it a deep rinse in conjunction with the spray rinse?

Sorry for all the questions. Inquiring minds want to know!

Have a great day and enjoy your new LG. By the way, that color is fabulous.

Richard
 
 

 

Richard ~

 

Very satisfied. The local dealer had the last Wild Cherry without Turbowash, and I passed on it. Part of the good cleaning in minimum water is achieved by the constant saturation which the Turbo jets provide. Don't get one without it.  Every cycle I've tried has at least one deep rinse and at least two sprays.  The options let you select 1, 2, or 3 more rinses beyond what the cycle provides. All the deep rinses use plentiful water that you can see up to the bottom of the window's big rubber seal. To get that much water in the wash cycle,  you have to select Bulky, Permaent Press, Delicate or Handwash. 

 

Thank you  for appreciating the work,  love the questions -- can't get enough! -- and seeing that you've just joined, I offer you  big, warm  welcome to Automatic Washer. Good luck on your purchase.  
 
 

 

Chuck ~

 

I was really surprised at the short drying time of 20 minutes on a big load of cleaning cloths. Even a Unimatic load takes longer to dry. This machine has two Turbo jets for recirc

at 5 and 7 o'clock,  and one yellow spray valve at Noon &Midnight which LG describes as an atomizer. 
 
I really love my LG WM3470, it has the recirculating jets and atomizer, just as yours does. I believe the feature might -- in the long-term -- become more common, as it seems like a great way to reduce water use and making the Department of Energy happy seems awfully important to these manufacturers.

Over time I've come to figure out how to get hot water washes, I just use the Allergiene cycle, which from my reading is simply a hot wash up to 131F/55C. By the way, you have it wrong somewhere (it might have been in the video of yours I watched). You said Hot was 130F, it certainly isn't. Hot to LG means a target of 104F/40C. This is true in Cotton/Normal, Bright Whites, Permanent Press, Towels, and I think Heavy Duty. Allergiene and Sanitary up that to 131F and maybe a little hotter for Sanitary (60C?) but I have no effective way of checking for certain since the door is locked once the temperature reaches anything above 104F/55C or somewhere around there anyway. I mention these temperatures as targets since that's all they are. LG are all too happy to miss the targets in Cotton/Normal, and sometimes too even in Bright Whites. I'm not certain of Permanent Press/Towels/Heavy duty yet since I haven't used those cycles enough. I have my washer connected to a current measuring device, so I know when the internal water heater is on, I can just glance over and if I see washer energy consumption in the 1000+ watt range, I know the internal heater's on.

I really wish I could figure out a reliable way to get Bright Whites to use the internal water heater. It seems like most of the time it'll engage, but not always. I haven't yet figured out what mixture of laundry weight and settings can guarantee it. For the moment, unless my whites have gotten dingy, I use Bright Whites + Turbo Wash + High Soil Level. This gives the sodium percarbonate the time it needs -- during the wash cycle -- to do its magical oxi work and thus I don't really have to use Allergiene that often, but I do occasionally just because I figure it's good for the washer to get a true hot hot wash now & then, and it's certainly whitening too.

I believe Cold and Warm will never use the internal hot water heater, no matter what. So warm, which is a target of 86F/30C, is quite rare in any part of the country outside of Florida. I often see a result of 70F during the wash cycle when Warm is selected, so I treat Warm as effectively Cold and just use it as my default temp for everything except whites. On occasion if the load is really large or Permanent Press or another water-rich cycle is selected I might see a warm that's in the lower 80's. I don't believe this temperature is at all injurious to dyes, so again, I treat Warm as a safe default for everything. Cotton/Normal w/ Turbo Wash ain't so bad as a default for small to medium-sized loads, kudos to LG. Still, I wish my washer had the equivalent of a manual transmission, as I like to control everything precisely.

Perhaps TMI but there ya go, I know you're into this stuff.
 
I just wanted to add, since I can't edit, that Cotton/Normal will NEVER use the internal water heater. No mixture of settings I have ever tried results in Cotton/Normal activating it. Rank insubordination, when you want Hot you want at *least* 104F, but Hot Cotton/Normal means quite often a middling 85-90F unless the load is very large in which case enough water is drawn in increase that to maybe 95-100.
 
Again, how I long for an edit button that didn't require a paid subscription.

One more addendum: I was washing a medium-sized load of whites using Bright Whites (+Turbo Wash and medium-soil level) a few months ago, and noticed that the consumption of energy during the wash agitation phase after filling was around 50-150 watts, so it wasn't using the internal heater. I felt this was curious, so I got out my infrared thermal measuring device and the wash water temperature was about 90F. I really can't give you any theories as to why that time, it chose NOT to use the internal water heater, as in what I think are pretty identical loads of laundry before that, it did engage and heat the water up to 104F. Disappointing. I've experimented with using Permanent Press + Hot + High Soil Level, and so far that seems to consistently engage the internal water heater. As does Bright Whites + Turbo Wash + High Soil Level. I'm kind of grasping at straws here, not sure if these settings are what's finally doing it. It might be that sometimes, this washer has a flexible logic that can't always be predicted.
 
@johnmk

Would using turbo wash = no heat cycle?

I realise machines this side of the pond are 95% cold fill with internal heating on all cycles but just curious if you tried the white/hot without turbo wash engaged?

Austin
 
@mickeyd

Did you take out the orange caps,or flow restrictors, that were in the fill hose compartment.Some people do, some don't, I'm wondering if it would damage the machine over time by removing them or does it just let the machine fill faster.I took mine out thinking it was a part of the shipping equipment (lol) maybe I should put them back in place?
 
Hi ozzie908,

I believe the non-TurboWash Bright Whites cycle performs far too many rinses for my taste, two or maybe three full deep rinses + spray rinses. That seems extravagant, time-consuming, and puts extra wear on the machinery as well. TurboWash generally reduces deep rinses by one, and in lieu of that spends more time spray rinsing. So i can't say for sure what the default Bright Whites cycle would do, as I would never use it. But Bright Whites + TurboWash usually engages the internal heater.
 
Speed Wash

By the way, the Speed Wash cycle (~15 mins) defaults to Hot water, and does engage the internal water heater, every time. It doesn't get a chance to do much, however, as the wash portion of the Speed Wash cycle is only about 2 minutes, and according to my measurements the 1000 watt internal water heater is only capable of warming about 1 degree Fahrenheit per minute. Since Speed Wash defaults to the lowest Soil Level, you can give the internal water heater more time by increasing the wash portion by increasing the Soil Level setting. Increase it to the highest, and the Speed Wash cycle might take 25 minutes instead of 15, but that's 10-15F of added heat, too, applied where it counts.

I don't use Speed Wash, however, as it does a terrible job suppressing suds, and leaves much detergent in the clothes. You're supposed to use half the detergent for this cycle, which means the detergent can't do a particularly effective job at water softening, etc. Certainly you're not giving the enzymes a chance to do their work. The cycle has its place however, just on rare occasion.
 
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