jerrod6
Well-known member
I loved looking at this series. I would like to see a similar one with a full load in the machine.
"Studies in the LGeeee" aka, WILD TURBO PIX
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mickeyd
Well-known member
Interesting that I'm only seeing one deep rinse on the cycles I've tried. From what you say, it's because I use Turbowash exclusively. Didn't know that. Good to know, more fun to come experimenting. Thank you. But I don't think I could stand to watch without the Turbo Jets streaming ;'D
I love the Speedwash cycle ( 4 minute default wash time on mine) and I use it all the time, firstly because I wash a lot of small loads frequently , and secondly because it's so familiar to me almost like vintage washing where the load takes about 30 minutes; it is never done in 15 real time--only in LG clock time--because the spin ritual adds about another ten minutes. Thirdly, because you get all the signature LG drama compressed into a short sequence, and fourthly , the missing spin allows more retention of detergent fragrance which is important to me. The main drawback for the those with sensitive skin is that there is no spin between wash and rinse; and THAT is how they keep it speedy. Aren't you using HE detergent? When I accidentally over-sudsed, the LG removed them; it has a special protocol for this. Isn't yours working? It was surprising and illuminating to watch.
And no I wasn't wrong. My hot water is indeed 120-130 as mentioned in the vid because my cold water line is attached to the laundry sink's faucet facilitating any temperature I desire entering through the cold line; thus I don't have to fuss around to get hot water without heating. I think you'd like the Sanitary cycle better than the Allergiene; it's shorter and doesn't use that long initial steam cycle which has set a few stains here that Sanitary then removed. You can upgrade for 12 dollars a year, a buck a month, or 3 &1/3 cents a day. I tried to go without upgrading for health reasons, and it was just too frustrating to do without editing. If you're strapped, the system allows any member to upgrade another member. Would you like me to do that for you? You've been so generous to me here.
Roscoe ~
I have really high water pressure here living on the lake. On some machines, I actually have to adjust the valves toward closed because of all the force, especially the cold water valves on the Frigidaires. The water pressure on the LG seems fine. The incoming water is forced through two "banks" atop the drawer opening. They look exactly like the bottoms of those square shower contraptions on bathtub hoses of old. But loving natural water sports so much, you have me really interested in seeing what will happen to the water pressure if I remove the restrictors, assuming they're there. The machine was installed by the dealer techs, and I have only seen the tap end of the cold hose in which there was no restrictor, as expected. I think you can see the incoming water in the open drawer in the vid, but I'm not sure. Here's Big Wild Cherry's control panel.
I love the Speedwash cycle ( 4 minute default wash time on mine) and I use it all the time, firstly because I wash a lot of small loads frequently , and secondly because it's so familiar to me almost like vintage washing where the load takes about 30 minutes; it is never done in 15 real time--only in LG clock time--because the spin ritual adds about another ten minutes. Thirdly, because you get all the signature LG drama compressed into a short sequence, and fourthly , the missing spin allows more retention of detergent fragrance which is important to me. The main drawback for the those with sensitive skin is that there is no spin between wash and rinse; and THAT is how they keep it speedy. Aren't you using HE detergent? When I accidentally over-sudsed, the LG removed them; it has a special protocol for this. Isn't yours working? It was surprising and illuminating to watch.
And no I wasn't wrong. My hot water is indeed 120-130 as mentioned in the vid because my cold water line is attached to the laundry sink's faucet facilitating any temperature I desire entering through the cold line; thus I don't have to fuss around to get hot water without heating. I think you'd like the Sanitary cycle better than the Allergiene; it's shorter and doesn't use that long initial steam cycle which has set a few stains here that Sanitary then removed. You can upgrade for 12 dollars a year, a buck a month, or 3 &1/3 cents a day. I tried to go without upgrading for health reasons, and it was just too frustrating to do without editing. If you're strapped, the system allows any member to upgrade another member. Would you like me to do that for you? You've been so generous to me here.
Roscoe ~
I have really high water pressure here living on the lake. On some machines, I actually have to adjust the valves toward closed because of all the force, especially the cold water valves on the Frigidaires. The water pressure on the LG seems fine. The incoming water is forced through two "banks" atop the drawer opening. They look exactly like the bottoms of those square shower contraptions on bathtub hoses of old. But loving natural water sports so much, you have me really interested in seeing what will happen to the water pressure if I remove the restrictors, assuming they're there. The machine was installed by the dealer techs, and I have only seen the tap end of the cold hose in which there was no restrictor, as expected. I think you can see the incoming water in the open drawer in the vid, but I'm not sure. Here's Big Wild Cherry's control panel.
mickeyd
Well-known member
Thanks Jerrod
I have to wash the two couch quilts-- they both fit comfortably and get good and wet--and I'll snap a pic for you later today or tomorrow.
I have to wash the two couch quilts-- they both fit comfortably and get good and wet--and I'll snap a pic for you later today or tomorrow.
Yes, please upgrade me!
You might very well be right on the 4-minute wash phase on Speed Wash, it's been a long-time since I've timed it. I doubt that my LG WM3470 and your washer are appreciably different in any way.
The temperature I was discussing was not the temperature of your hot water (mine is set to 135F), but rather what LG targets by mixing hot & cold water lines. In LG's universe, the temperature they're targeting inside the basket during wash is 104F/40C for Hot, 86F/30C for Warm, and I'm not sure what it is for cold but I would guess 20C/68F. Only Hot stands a good chance at reaching the target, provided the machine engages the internal water heater. And I think there's not much point in using Hot unless you increase Soil Level to give the internal heater time to do its work. Don't bother with this in Cotton/Normal of course, it doesn't bother with the internal water heater no matter what you do. Warm especially is likely to miss the target (I've seen 68F-84F), and I don't have enough testing to speak of Cold and its performance, though I think it'll mix in a little bit of hot water if it senses the cold water is very cold (I've read that somewhere). I assume cold water will vary greatly depending on the region of the country and time of year. Right now mine is around 55F, give or take, but in the worst of winter here near Seattle, 40-45F is possible, when mixed with the 60F laundry and mass of metal/air in the washer/room, that can result in a wash temperature of around 50-55F, if memory serves. Much too cold for me to believe that the detergent does much of anything, unless I use Tide Coldwater, whose scent I find abominably horrid.
You might very well be right on the 4-minute wash phase on Speed Wash, it's been a long-time since I've timed it. I doubt that my LG WM3470 and your washer are appreciably different in any way.
The temperature I was discussing was not the temperature of your hot water (mine is set to 135F), but rather what LG targets by mixing hot & cold water lines. In LG's universe, the temperature they're targeting inside the basket during wash is 104F/40C for Hot, 86F/30C for Warm, and I'm not sure what it is for cold but I would guess 20C/68F. Only Hot stands a good chance at reaching the target, provided the machine engages the internal water heater. And I think there's not much point in using Hot unless you increase Soil Level to give the internal heater time to do its work. Don't bother with this in Cotton/Normal of course, it doesn't bother with the internal water heater no matter what you do. Warm especially is likely to miss the target (I've seen 68F-84F), and I don't have enough testing to speak of Cold and its performance, though I think it'll mix in a little bit of hot water if it senses the cold water is very cold (I've read that somewhere). I assume cold water will vary greatly depending on the region of the country and time of year. Right now mine is around 55F, give or take, but in the worst of winter here near Seattle, 40-45F is possible, when mixed with the 60F laundry and mass of metal/air in the washer/room, that can result in a wash temperature of around 50-55F, if memory serves. Much too cold for me to believe that the detergent does much of anything, unless I use Tide Coldwater, whose scent I find abominably horrid.
Allergiene usually goes about 90 minutes at least in LG's clock. You're suggesting Sanitary is appreciably shorter? I wonder if it -- very sanely -- skips with any cold water fill. Allergiene calls for a significant portion of cold water, mixes in some hot water (maybe 50/50? I could be off), and then only slowly heats that up to what I believe is 131F. I thought hot water right away was the most likely to set stains, that's what I've always thought. Maybe I'm wrong.
I want to find a way to measure these too-hot-to-open-door cycles, e.g. Allergiene & Sanitary.
I want to find a way to measure these too-hot-to-open-door cycles, e.g. Allergiene & Sanitary.
By the way, I ordered and installed this:
https://customer.honeywell.com/en-US/Pages/Product.aspx?cat=HonECC Catalog&pid=AM100C1070-UT-1/U
I have it feeding my cold water inlet to my clothes washer, and it's set to 65F, which is outside of spec for the thermostatic mixing valve but appears to work. This helps to ensure that my cold water isn't bone-chillingly cold, and also warms up the hot water line so that when the washer finally calls for hot water, it's not drawing a gallon of room temperature water first. This is pretty wasteful of energy and I keep thinking about removing it, but the cost is minor with it set to 65F since it's usually only 10-20F over tap temperature, and it ensures that I don't get ice-cold fingers when taking out the clean clothes at the end of the cycle.
https://customer.honeywell.com/en-US/Pages/Product.aspx?cat=HonECC Catalog&pid=AM100C1070-UT-1/U
I have it feeding my cold water inlet to my clothes washer, and it's set to 65F, which is outside of spec for the thermostatic mixing valve but appears to work. This helps to ensure that my cold water isn't bone-chillingly cold, and also warms up the hot water line so that when the washer finally calls for hot water, it's not drawing a gallon of room temperature water first. This is pretty wasteful of energy and I keep thinking about removing it, but the cost is minor with it set to 65F since it's usually only 10-20F over tap temperature, and it ensures that I don't get ice-cold fingers when taking out the clean clothes at the end of the cycle.
mickeyd
Well-known member
I remember reading about the temperatures. somewhere on line as as well -- unbelievably they're not in the manual -- and if memory serves, Allergeine gets up to 131, while Sanitary heats to 151. The thing about Allergiene, though is that it does all that default or automatically scheduled steaming before the clothing gets really wet. While admitting that it sounds totally counterintuitive, steam first rather than later hasn't worked out too well for me. The manual is not only stingy with details but sometimes contradictory especially what it says regarding Allergeine versus Sanitary. More study needed with less bias and angst toward such a bad manual for such a fabulous machine.
I just started a Sanitary cycle, and it does show an LG estimated time of 1:24 instead of about 1:30 for Allergiene. I'll give it a try. I like that it gives more options than Allergiene, i.e., I can adjust soil level. I bet I could even add a pre-wash, if I felt so-inclined, but I didn't try that.
mickeyd
Well-known member
Notice that it also shows the temp level; Aller. leaves it blank.
The star has just arrived next to you name. Have fun editing after posting.
If you use Frigilux's recipe by adding LCB to this cycle, any dingy whites will startle when they come out of the drum. I tried it the other day, on some older stuff ~ WOW.
The star has just arrived next to you name. Have fun editing after posting.
If you use Frigilux's recipe by adding LCB to this cycle, any dingy whites will startle when they come out of the drum. I tried it the other day, on some older stuff ~ WOW.
Mickeyd-- glad you've seen the amazing results of a Sanitize cycle coupled with a top-drawer detergent and liquid chlorine bleach! No pretreating, prewashing, or presoaking required.
mickeyd
Well-known member
The Down quilt on the bottom and the Softee on top
No other machine in the house handles each of these well, let alone both.
No other machine in the house handles each of these well, let alone both.
mickeyd
Well-known member
Ready to roll
Well, actually, it's already rollin' door open Bulky.
Well, actually, it's already rollin' door open Bulky.
Aha, so Steam comes on before the wash cycle? I thought Steam worked like Stain Treat on some of the older Duets, that is activating the heater during the main wash cycle.
Alex
Alex
mickeyd
Well-known member
Darn ! Must shut door; quilts falling out; jets shooting
[this post was last edited: 5/2/2014-18:48]
[this post was last edited: 5/2/2014-18:48]
mickeyd
Well-known member
Shower head
mickeyd
Well-known member
Turbo Jet, left
mickeyd
Well-known member
Washing at full bore
mickeyd
Well-known member
Water up to and into--barely--the glass
Bulky alternates sprays & tumbles. Here is a straight spray with no tumbling
Bulky alternates sprays & tumbles. Here is a straight spray with no tumbling
mickeyd
Well-known member
Spin & Spray, streaming down the looking glass
mickeyd
Well-known member
Rinsing like crazy
mickeyd
Well-known member
Clean, clear rinse water everywhere
mickeyd
Well-known member
Turbo jet, right, the gray clam lurking and shooting
mickeyd
Well-known member
Intermission for supper
Playing the Rock Opera "Tommy," by the Who.
Playing the Rock Opera "Tommy," by the Who.
mickeyd
Well-known member
The fill port, ending in a wide elbow
You can stick your finger into the surprisingly wide joint. If I had longer fingers, I could reach the honey comb. Will start looking for a long-fingered person.
See the twin shower heads above.
You can stick your finger into the surprisingly wide joint. If I had longer fingers, I could reach the honey comb. Will start looking for a long-fingered person.
See the twin shower heads above.
mickeyd
Well-known member
1200 RMP Spin, Door Wide Open
mickeyd
Well-known member
"Now, Clarice, this is interesting." Hannibal lector
Up to the belly of the beast
Up to the belly of the beast
mickeyd
Well-known member
Ready to roll
mickeyd
Well-known member
Jerrod ~ Here ya go. Hope you like it, and thanks for the inspiration. A lot of work and a lot of fun.
Eugene ~ It works like a chemistry experiment; you never disappoint.
Logix ~ Yeah, steam first, not good. The steaming is separate from the water heating, but I don't have a handle on it yet. Stay tuned.
Johnny ~ You've got the tools, and I know how to get the temp. I discovered a secret cycle, unlisted anywhere. Found it playing the buttons in the flow state and using intuition: the DRAIN cycle. Turn the machine on, press the spin speed button till it reads NO SPIN, press start. The clock will read I minute. Tub drains & shuts off, fastest cycle in the world. So use the sanitary cycle and come back after 30 minutes before the massive cool down. Stop machine and turn off to abort cycle. Turn machine on, and do the drain. Let the discharge get going; then get your equipment to find the truth in heating.
Johnny ~ NEVER put LCB in the rinse. Always in the wash, or in a separate pre-wash before the rinses. Bad for fabrics, bad for skin to keep the chlorine in.
Notes: The Bulky Cycle started a second full deep rinse, but I aborted it, having used uber low-sudsing Persil Mega Pearls, and wanting scent. Used the Spin cycle at full speed. The Bulky spins at medium, 800.
It took two loads in the dryer for LG's big washink ;'D
[this post was last edited: 5/2/2014-21:40]
Eugene ~ It works like a chemistry experiment; you never disappoint.
Logix ~ Yeah, steam first, not good. The steaming is separate from the water heating, but I don't have a handle on it yet. Stay tuned.
Johnny ~ You've got the tools, and I know how to get the temp. I discovered a secret cycle, unlisted anywhere. Found it playing the buttons in the flow state and using intuition: the DRAIN cycle. Turn the machine on, press the spin speed button till it reads NO SPIN, press start. The clock will read I minute. Tub drains & shuts off, fastest cycle in the world. So use the sanitary cycle and come back after 30 minutes before the massive cool down. Stop machine and turn off to abort cycle. Turn machine on, and do the drain. Let the discharge get going; then get your equipment to find the truth in heating.
Johnny ~ NEVER put LCB in the rinse. Always in the wash, or in a separate pre-wash before the rinses. Bad for fabrics, bad for skin to keep the chlorine in.
Notes: The Bulky Cycle started a second full deep rinse, but I aborted it, having used uber low-sudsing Persil Mega Pearls, and wanting scent. Used the Spin cycle at full speed. The Bulky spins at medium, 800.
It took two loads in the dryer for LG's big washink ;'D
[this post was last edited: 5/2/2014-21:40]
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