What did I do wrong?

[roto204]

I take it...

...the support collar is supposed to be inserted with the collar part facing down, so that it sort of inserts into the top of the transmission?

If so, I think that's our culprit. I *know* I have it collar-part-up.

 

[Unimatic1140]

Nate another thing you can do is temporarily adjust the brake adjustment nut all the way down as a test. With the brake out of the picture you will be able to test spin with a full load of wet clothes and see if it still has trouble. You should also check to make sure there is no grease on the clutch pads.

 

[roto204]

Adjust nut down...

Good to know! I'll do that.

I would bet there could be grease on the clutch pads, because of the unique way the tranny leaked before I replaced the spring and seal around the agitator shaft.

Is there a good way to degrease those? I have various things--brake cleaner and the like. Anything you would recommend?

Thank you VERY much for all your help--your advice and the pictures are really helping.

--Nate

 

[Unimatic1140]

Well if I'm remembering correctly the T shaped bearing should be installed upside down so the column of the T is sticking up into center hole of the spin pulley itself. I will see if I have a picture of this over the weekend.

My favorite degreaser is "Goof-Off", but any good degreaser will work that you can get at the hardware store.

 

[roto204]

Thanks for the degreaser info. I'll look into that.

Darn! I was hoping my eyes didn't deceive me and that I had found a simple fix...but I think you're right; the T part goes flat-part-down and the collar support slides down over it...and that's how it is on mine now.

How did the collar supports cause problems that were later rectified with the plastic sleeve/little metal ball design? Is it a wear-out thing? Maybe I need to look for a replacement...

Thank you again!

--Nate

 

[Unimatic1140]

I'm not sure exactly what the difference between the metal and plastic bearing is, but the ball provides a more solid contact between the bearing and the agitator shaft.

The tight belt is also troubling, when the basket slows down to a crawl does the belt slow down or is it turning at full speed and just slipping? Is the basket drive pulley turning at a different speed than the clutch plate above it? Can you get a bright light in there and see exactly what is happening between the clutch and drive pulley?

Another thing I thought of is there is a chance that the spin shaft is misaligned in the center post bearing. To fix this you need to loosen the three tranny mounting bolts a bit so the tranny can drop down about 1/2". Then stand the machine up and hold the agitator shaft and give it a good shake and rock. Then with the machine still standing tighten the bolts back up.

 

[roto204]

I'll do a diagnostic rundown this weekend with the flashlight and see what's afoot.



--Nate

 

[kenmore1978]

gearcase bolt tightening

"Another thing I thought of is there is a chance that the spin shaft is misaligned in the center post bearing. To fix this you need to loosen the three tranny mounting bolts a bit so the tranny can drop down about 1/2". Then stand the machine up and hold the agitator shaft and give it a good shake and rock. Then with the machine still standing tighten the bolts back up."

And tighten the gearcase bolts alternately just like you would the wheel on a car so the gearcase moves up evenly and you don't end up with the same problem.

 

[roto204]

Resolving debates

Thanks Jaune, I'll be sure to exercise caution when retightening--that would be great to do all the work and put it right back to crooked.

Robert, I notice that the picture you posted in #76737 shows the basket support collar...does that go underneath the T bearing on the agitator shaft, or does the T bearing go first, and then the collar slide down on top of it?

Roger and I have researched this in his manuals, but no one seems to have a good picture. This is one of the things I want to check when I take it apart to see if I didn't make a reassembly error.

Thanks very much!

--Nate

 

[fixerman]

The steel collar goes on first. The set screw tightens into the hole in the agitator shaft. The brass tee bearing goes on top with the small diameter end up to fit into the spin tube. I doubt you would have been able to get it back together if you put the brass bearing on first. It would have covered the hole for the set screw and the set screw would not have lined up with it.

 

[fixerman]

Here is a rather poor illustration of how the bearing goes on. Hope it is understandable.

 

[Unimatic1140]

Yes good illustration Greg. I cannot find a picture with the collar and T-bearing installed, but Greg's picture should make it obvious.

Nate, I would definitely try the gearcase aligning procedure, it might just do the trick.