gpevas
Well-known member
Didn't know!
Thanks for the info! I never knew that before... You truly lean something new every day.....
Thanks for the info! I never knew that before... You truly lean something new every day.....
Zote soap flakes
- Thread starter askolover
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launderess
Well-known member
You are most welcome guys!
You know me, I am a *giver*! *LOL*
On another note have offered several times in this group to sell on some vintage soaps from my stash. The vintage P&G white laundry soap IMHO is far better than Zote or any other modern offering. Sent Stan some and he ran various test concluding the stuff still packed its cleaning power. *LOL*
Unlike Zote and the rest P&G is pure white soap, no OBAs and so forth.
http://www.old-time.com/commercials/1930's/PandG Guiding Light.html
You know me, I am a *giver*! *LOL*
On another note have offered several times in this group to sell on some vintage soaps from my stash. The vintage P&G white laundry soap IMHO is far better than Zote or any other modern offering. Sent Stan some and he ran various test concluding the stuff still packed its cleaning power. *LOL*
Unlike Zote and the rest P&G is pure white soap, no OBAs and so forth.
http://www.old-time.com/commercials/1930's/PandG Guiding Light.html
I have a bar of the P&G White Naphtha Soap and use it for cleaning spots, but I'm too chicken to try a whole wash with it. 
I'm still working on a vintage box of Super Suds granulated soap, anyway.
I'm still working on a vintage box of Super Suds granulated soap, anyway.mamapinky
Well-known member
I hope Launderess can help me. I know a few people that have complained of a scum on their washer drum when using tide turbo liquid. I know there's soap in tides liquid detergents, now since the new turbo was created to be low sudzing could there be more soap in this turbo and that's what's causing the scum? Thank you much..Cheryl
launderess
Well-known member
Have commented elsewhere in the group
About liquid detergents and scum floating in discharge water as it drains into the laundry sink. If it is in that water is most certainly is elsewhere as the washer drains.
P&G liquid detergents seem the worse for this and Persil gel/liquid much better. Can only attribute this to the difference in surfactants and or perhaps other chemicals.
Tide and some other liquid detergents the wash and subsequent rinse water draining in sink looks same as when someone very dirty takes a bath with soap. That is there is a visible crud. Have tried upping dosage but it seems to make little difference.
About liquid detergents and scum floating in discharge water as it drains into the laundry sink. If it is in that water is most certainly is elsewhere as the washer drains.
P&G liquid detergents seem the worse for this and Persil gel/liquid much better. Can only attribute this to the difference in surfactants and or perhaps other chemicals.
Tide and some other liquid detergents the wash and subsequent rinse water draining in sink looks same as when someone very dirty takes a bath with soap. That is there is a visible crud. Have tried upping dosage but it seems to make little difference.
mamapinky
Well-known member
Thank you Launderess, I've also noticed this scum on top of the wash water with liquids and pods, I've never seen it with powders yet.and tide free liquid seems to have much less than other liquid tides at least for me....again thank you
Yep
The P&G Naptha still cleans. So if anyone's interested..get um while their hot from Laundress!
Don't be chicken LOL
To use soaps of that age for general laundry, I find that grating and pre-dissolving works best.
Grating 1/4 of the bar into a sheet of paper, then add to a measuring cup, add hot water and stir. Let sit and allow any sediment to settle to the bottom, carefully add this to pre treated wash water (STPP) avoid pouring the sediment in. Throw that part out.
It il do you proud! Youl see!
The P&G Naptha still cleans. So if anyone's interested..get um while their hot from Laundress!
Don't be chicken LOL
To use soaps of that age for general laundry, I find that grating and pre-dissolving works best.
Grating 1/4 of the bar into a sheet of paper, then add to a measuring cup, add hot water and stir. Let sit and allow any sediment to settle to the bottom, carefully add this to pre treated wash water (STPP) avoid pouring the sediment in. Throw that part out.
It il do you proud! Youl see!
Thanks Stan but
The reason I'm chicken is that all I have is a DD Whirlpool and picturing the soap scum building up invisibly on the outer tub is giving me pause. If I had a wringer it would be fun to try. As it is I use the Super Suds sparingly with a hefty dose of silver box Calgon, but lacking even a warm rinse not sure even this is a good idea.
Plus I've got a TON of vintage detergent with phosphates that's perfect for this type of machine...just got an 8 lb. box of All with Bleach, Borax and Brighteners the other day, to go with 9 lbs of Cheer, three boxes of White King D, etc etc. I'm outta control!
The reason I'm chicken is that all I have is a DD Whirlpool and picturing the soap scum building up invisibly on the outer tub is giving me pause. If I had a wringer it would be fun to try. As it is I use the Super Suds sparingly with a hefty dose of silver box Calgon, but lacking even a warm rinse not sure even this is a good idea.
Plus I've got a TON of vintage detergent with phosphates that's perfect for this type of machine...just got an 8 lb. box of All with Bleach, Borax and Brighteners the other day, to go with 9 lbs of Cheer, three boxes of White King D, etc etc. I'm outta control!
John
I see your dilemma.
Without at least a warm rinse I wouldn't risk it either. Only way you could do it would be if you babysat the machine... after it spun out the wash, you'd have to be right there to stop and reset wash cycle so it would re wash hot water. This would be your first rinse .. Then Allow the machine to go through the whole cycle, so there'd be a second rinse in cold
Probably better that you continue to use the bar as a stain stick. Or for hand washing
I see your dilemma.
Without at least a warm rinse I wouldn't risk it either. Only way you could do it would be if you babysat the machine... after it spun out the wash, you'd have to be right there to stop and reset wash cycle so it would re wash hot water. This would be your first rinse .. Then Allow the machine to go through the whole cycle, so there'd be a second rinse in cold
Probably better that you continue to use the bar as a stain stick. Or for hand washing
Stan, that's a brilliantly simple idea! Never thought of it...hmm. I'll try it the next time I wash towels! They're so much softer washed in soap.
sudsmaster
Well-known member
Well, I don't think incomplete rinsing was the issue with my yellowed cotton T-shirts using grated Ivory soap. I used a Neptune 7500 FL with the extra rinse, and the loads were generally small, so plenty of volume and sloshing going on. I also used STPP so soap scum likely didn't happen either. Although I suppose if I tried it again, I'd add some Oxyclean, which might prevent the yellowing. But I have no plans to do so. All my whites now are done with in a Miele at 160F, using Sears Ultra/Oxyclean/STPP combination detergent. They come out sparkling white and soft, with no need for fabric softener.
I still may try the Zote flakes anyway, once I can set up to get to Walmart early in the morning on a weekday to avoid the hordes. I have a couple other Walmart-only items I need to check out, anyway.
I still may try the Zote flakes anyway, once I can set up to get to Walmart early in the morning on a weekday to avoid the hordes. I have a couple other Walmart-only items I need to check out, anyway.
sudsmaster
Well-known member
Old rubber and soap
I tend to doubt that residual organic grease left over from soap washers are responsible for old rubber deterioration in cheaper washers.
I surmise that more likely it's bleach, especially chlorine, that is most harsh on rubber not designed to take it. That's because bleach basically oxidizes things, and cheap rubber is more sensitive to oxidation damage than better rubber formulations.
Also, over time, the oxygen in the air will attack cheap rubber and cause it to harden, crack, or turn to mush. Depending.
The short rubber detergent chute tube on my old Bendix FL is shot. It's one of the things holding up the restoration (as well as just getting the time to put it all back together). If I can find a modern rubber tube that size (about 2 or 3 inches diameter) that might work.
I tend to doubt that residual organic grease left over from soap washers are responsible for old rubber deterioration in cheaper washers.
I surmise that more likely it's bleach, especially chlorine, that is most harsh on rubber not designed to take it. That's because bleach basically oxidizes things, and cheap rubber is more sensitive to oxidation damage than better rubber formulations.
Also, over time, the oxygen in the air will attack cheap rubber and cause it to harden, crack, or turn to mush. Depending.
The short rubber detergent chute tube on my old Bendix FL is shot. It's one of the things holding up the restoration (as well as just getting the time to put it all back together). If I can find a modern rubber tube that size (about 2 or 3 inches diameter) that might work.
launderess
Well-known member
When using water softeners with soap
It isn't just that the wash water but the rinses (at least the first and possibly second or even third), also must be softened as well.
When pure soap is used for washing even if phosphates are used in the wash soon as that laundry meets not softened rinse water it will react with hard water minerals. If you read vintage boxes of Calgon (loaded with phosphates) it advises to add that product to both the wash *and* rinse cycles.
Amount of water is not necessarily the issue, but the quality will influence how well soapy laundry is rinsed. It is almost certain that the first rinse after using soap should appear milky. This indicates the presence of residual soap being rinsed from the wash.
Consumer Reports tested various "built" laundry soaps in the 1950's. They found even those with phosphates added did not have enough of that substance to carry over into the rinses. Thus in all but the softest water some sort of softening needed to take place not just for the wash but rinses as well when using soap. This could be packaged products or whole house appliance.
Ironically once notices a soapy/milky appearance to wash and rinse water when using certain European detergents (mostly liquids) that contain a good amount of "soap".
It isn't just that the wash water but the rinses (at least the first and possibly second or even third), also must be softened as well.
When pure soap is used for washing even if phosphates are used in the wash soon as that laundry meets not softened rinse water it will react with hard water minerals. If you read vintage boxes of Calgon (loaded with phosphates) it advises to add that product to both the wash *and* rinse cycles.
Amount of water is not necessarily the issue, but the quality will influence how well soapy laundry is rinsed. It is almost certain that the first rinse after using soap should appear milky. This indicates the presence of residual soap being rinsed from the wash.
Consumer Reports tested various "built" laundry soaps in the 1950's. They found even those with phosphates added did not have enough of that substance to carry over into the rinses. Thus in all but the softest water some sort of softening needed to take place not just for the wash but rinses as well when using soap. This could be packaged products or whole house appliance.
Ironically once notices a soapy/milky appearance to wash and rinse water when using certain European detergents (mostly liquids) that contain a good amount of "soap".
sudsmaster
Well-known member
Well, the water here is relatively soft, so I don't know if residual soap reacting with hard water minerals is the problem. But I suppose I could add a sprinkle of STPP to the fabric softener dispenser. It should be enough to disengage any residual soap scum and get it rinsed out.
Not that I'm gonna try this any time soon. Too many other home projects piling up.
Not that I'm gonna try this any time soon. Too many other home projects piling up.
launderess
Well-known member
From One That Has More Than Enough Soap To Last The Duration
Really only bother with the pure stuff when using the Hoover TT. Otherwise takes too much effort in the Miele. As for the AEG Lavamat it does *NOT* like suds, so won't even bother.
Being as all this may one really does love the scent of vintage Ivory Snow and Persil (the original stuff), but since so little can be used to prevent frothing it is hard to keep the perfume.
Really only bother with the pure stuff when using the Hoover TT. Otherwise takes too much effort in the Miele. As for the AEG Lavamat it does *NOT* like suds, so won't even bother.
Being as all this may one really does love the scent of vintage Ivory Snow and Persil (the original stuff), but since so little can be used to prevent frothing it is hard to keep the perfume.
mamapinky
Well-known member
The new tide turbo causes milky water and a ring of scum around the washer drum for some, I've been thinking its increased * soap in the formula used as a suds supresser. Cheryl
John
If you decide to try it (babysitting the machine) it might be a good idea to add a little pre-dissolved STPP to the first hot rinse as Laundress has suggested. Especially if you have hard water. You should have all bases covered then.
Don't be chicken! Give it try once LOL
Mama, have you tried or suggested pre treating the water with STPP for the problem your seeing with the Turbo Tide?
If you decide to try it (babysitting the machine) it might be a good idea to add a little pre-dissolved STPP to the first hot rinse as Laundress has suggested. Especially if you have hard water. You should have all bases covered then.
Don't be chicken! Give it try once LOL
Mama, have you tried or suggested pre treating the water with STPP for the problem your seeing with the Turbo Tide?
After seeing this thread land at the top repeatedly for the last three weeks, I had to see what all the discussion was about. Imagine my surprise in seeing it hadn't gone off topic.
Clearly, soap with its requirement for major rinsing, is not for me or anyone else who is currently coping with drought conditions. I've even shied away from using the shorter permanent press cycle on my Affinity because it goes through more water.
But, with all this talk about Zote, what is the deal with its competitor I always see on the shelves: Lirio? I bought a bar of Lirio and use it for pre-treating. It works fairly well.
A bar of Zote and a bar of Lirio cost the same at the 99c Only Store, but if one is better than the other, I'll remember that when I buy my next bar.
One bar I've only seen in Mexico is Don Maximo, which appears to be associated with P&G. I've brought back a few bars whenever I've been across the border. The bar itself has a rough texture and also has a washboard surface (see illustration). Besides laundry use, it's also good as a hand soap with its Lava-like texture.
Clearly, soap with its requirement for major rinsing, is not for me or anyone else who is currently coping with drought conditions. I've even shied away from using the shorter permanent press cycle on my Affinity because it goes through more water.
But, with all this talk about Zote, what is the deal with its competitor I always see on the shelves: Lirio? I bought a bar of Lirio and use it for pre-treating. It works fairly well.
A bar of Zote and a bar of Lirio cost the same at the 99c Only Store, but if one is better than the other, I'll remember that when I buy my next bar.
One bar I've only seen in Mexico is Don Maximo, which appears to be associated with P&G. I've brought back a few bars whenever I've been across the border. The bar itself has a rough texture and also has a washboard surface (see illustration). Besides laundry use, it's also good as a hand soap with its Lava-like texture.
I delayed opening the thread too, Ralph. Your drought is really horrible and I wonder if some members with TL machines are going to have issues using them as restrictions get worse.
About using a "conditioner" in the rinse, would Calgon liquid do a decent job? There are no ingredients on the label but I assume it is sodium citrate. Nobody ever mentions it as an alternative to STPP, but as I recall soduium citrate is a non-precipitating softener.
About using a "conditioner" in the rinse, would Calgon liquid do a decent job? There are no ingredients on the label but I assume it is sodium citrate. Nobody ever mentions it as an alternative to STPP, but as I recall soduium citrate is a non-precipitating softener.
gpevas
Well-known member
Calgon use!
I had to chime in and give my two cents worth. I use Zote soap for all my washing. I have a wringer washer so I have no fear of build up, because I can clean the tub after every wash. I use STPP in wash water and in the rinse tubs I use Calgon liquid version. I have no problems at all. I have modestly hard water 7 grains is what the Cleveland, Ohio water dept. told me. I put the wash washer on my back yard grass but let the rinse water go down drain. I used to use Calgon in both wash and rinse but heard about STPP and gave it a try and LOVED it!!!! Does anyone know if the powered Calgon is better then the liquid version? I wondered if there is a difference in the two? I tried Trisodium phosphate in the washer BIG MISTAKE!!!!!
I had to chime in and give my two cents worth. I use Zote soap for all my washing. I have a wringer washer so I have no fear of build up, because I can clean the tub after every wash. I use STPP in wash water and in the rinse tubs I use Calgon liquid version. I have no problems at all. I have modestly hard water 7 grains is what the Cleveland, Ohio water dept. told me. I put the wash washer on my back yard grass but let the rinse water go down drain. I used to use Calgon in both wash and rinse but heard about STPP and gave it a try and LOVED it!!!! Does anyone know if the powered Calgon is better then the liquid version? I wondered if there is a difference in the two? I tried Trisodium phosphate in the washer BIG MISTAKE!!!!!
calgon
Can you even get the powdered Calgon anymore? All I've seen around here is the liquid version.
Makes me remember the old commercial for it...
"Ancient Chinese Secret"
http://https//www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ARuaI8wrHY
Can you even get the powdered Calgon anymore? All I've seen around here is the liquid version.
Makes me remember the old commercial for it...
"Ancient Chinese Secret"
http://https//www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ARuaI8wrHY
launderess
Well-known member
Yes, Calgon powder can still be found
But they removed phosphates a long time ago. Now the stuff is mostly Zeolites, washing soda or soda glass and a few other chemicals. The liquid version is sodium citrate based IIRC.
Prior to this Calgon powder came in two flavors; phosphate and without. This was to deal with certain state bans on phosphate use. There was a code on top of the box that told which was which.
But they removed phosphates a long time ago. Now the stuff is mostly Zeolites, washing soda or soda glass and a few other chemicals. The liquid version is sodium citrate based IIRC.
Prior to this Calgon powder came in two flavors; phosphate and without. This was to deal with certain state bans on phosphate use. There was a code on top of the box that told which was which.
Greg
Just out of curiosity, did you ever try the Zote, if so with a TL or a FL machine.
Just out of curiosity, did you ever try the Zote, if so with a TL or a FL machine.
Nah...
haven't done it yet. It will be in my Asko FL machine if I do. We have a water softener so no minerals to contend with. I was just thinking about this.
haven't done it yet. It will be in my Asko FL machine if I do. We have a water softener so no minerals to contend with. I was just thinking about this.
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