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Cloth wire

Sundail-wire sells vintage style of cloth cord.

http://www.sundialwire.com/

I plan to buy some cloth cord for my 1925 Dayton fan, and my 1919 hoover 102.

Cant decide which style to get for my dayton. Twisted, straight, black, green... decisions decisions!
 
duet83 - what you call a flash light is indeed a torch over here.

I love our language differences, I never knew you called a torch a flash light! I'd be in trouble if I needed to buy one in the US!

Other I can think of are:

Tap = Faucet
Live Wire = Hot
Paraffin = Kerosene
Meths = Mineralised Sprit (I think)
Cooker = Range / Stove
Work Top = Counter Top (Kitchen)

I cannot think of any more!

Oh and for all of us Brits, find attached a link to braided flex in the UK, only it can only handle up to 500w appliances I think.

I LOVE old electrical appliances, and have plugged in a few things that may I should not have done.

On the heater theme, I was visiting one of our statley homes recently and saw an amazing electric fire made by HMV! It was 3000 watts, so would have been as effective as any heater you can buy in the UK today.

 
Here's a few more British to American English translations that I've run across:

Bonnet = car hood

Boot = car trunk

Lorry = truck

Petrol = gas

Aerial = antenna

Loo = bathroom

As far as safety of older appliances, back then people seemed to have more common sense and raised their children using it. When I was young, I was told not to touch certain things because they could hurt me. If, after being warned, I still tried to touch something; I was either spanked or they let me and when I hurt myself my parent would laugh and say "I told you so, I bet you won't do that again!" (They only let me do that for relatively non dangerous stuff, and after the first time that happened, I obeyed from then on).
 
Overall, I think it's probably best and easiest to have this heater on display, only, as planned.

I'd be concerned running that gadget on modern power. If nothing else, the current 120V could shorten the life of the bulbs. I have heard of antique radio restorers who make changes (like installing a tube with higher voltage drop in a radio that has tubes wired in series) just because modern line voltages (at least in parts of the US) are higher than they once were.

If actually used, DC power MIGHT also be a better choice. It's said a light bulb will last longer with DC. (With AC, the theory is that the bulb is constantly cycling off and on.)

Brandon--while thinking of radios, I might as well mention that if you like "dangerous" appliances, you might like an old 40s/50s AC/DC table radio if you don't already have one. Plugged in one way, the chassis is live, and the back covers used back then really weren't enough to keep prying fingers out.
 
Excuse me John but......

do you mind explaining to me why a vintage radio is a "dangerous appliance"? I have a bunch of them some even restored and working and I just don't get how they are dangerous...unless you mean that they are dangerous if you do not know what you are doing when you try to fix one but then again any appliance is dangerous if you try to fix them when you do not know how to do so. I am, by the way, to dumb to fix them myself, BUT I am smart enough to have them fixed by a qualified person.....PAT COFFEY
 
Heat Output

Well, the label says 7.5 Amps at 100 Volts, so for a purely resistive load (which those bulbs no doubt are), the heater should be putting out about 750 watts of heat. About 1/2 of what a modern electric space heater might put out.
 
hammond

I used to have a 1947ish Hammond CV with a DR20 tone cabinet.

It was a beautiful organ. Oh boy I think it was all original too.

My dad would hate it when I fired her up. He thought I was going to blow something up. He said it was old and dangerous.

I beg to differ! :D

I loved that organ! It sang beautifully. The b3 era organs seemed to punchy and beefy. While this CV is more soft and sutle, but aint quiet!

That DR20 tone cabinet was a good 5.5 feet tall and packed a punch! But that soft friendly kind of punch ;)

____
Dont have any old radios. I used to have a Franz metronome. It was probably from like the 40s. It was a black box, with a little light on the top.

That thing did actually short circuit and burned the wall plug! :S
 
Dangerous vintage radios

Pat--I was talking about AC/DC radios above. Many of these had a huge safety problem. Thankfully, it's easily dealt with.

AC/DC radios were designed to have no AC transformer. This was a cost cutting move. AC/DC radios were usually the cheaper radios on the market. They were very common--almost every radio I've seen from the 40s or 50s (except console) is AC/DC.

Due to the overall AC/DC radio design, the metal chassis (holding the electronics) is never very well isolated from the power cord. In some cases, one side of the power cord is even directly attached to the chassis. Thus, the chassis on one of these radios CAN be live. Someone touching the chassis could get a nasty shock. Or even be electrocuted. This applies ANY time the radio is plugged in, whether or not it's on.

Touching the chassis accidentally was too easy in the early days of AC/DC radios. Back covers had huge openings through which even an adult hand could slip in. The chassis was held in place by screws underneath the radio. These radios are the ones I'd consider potentially dangerous.

Later on, safety standards apparently improved. These improved radios had a chassis fully enclosed by the cabinet, with no exposed chassis screws, and vent holes that were too small for even the smallest finger to slip in.

In order to fix the live chassis problem, particularly on the older AC/DC radios, some experts suggest a couple of changes:
-Installing a polarized plug, which, when plugged into a properly polarized outlet, will ensure that chassis side is connected to the neutral side of the power grid. (Although, one needs to be sure the wall outlet is properly wired!)
-If necessary, rewiring the power switch so it's on the live side of the power cord

Radios using an AC transformer should not have any live chassis issue, since the transformer should fully isolate the radio from line voltage.

The worst AC/DC radios were probably some of the earliest. I've never seen one, but I've heard in the early days some used a special power cord that included a resistive wire to help with the voltage drop. These cords ran hot, and could even start fires. I heard they were called by some "curtain burners."

Link to article about AC/DC radios, which more fully describes the issue. Plus instructions on how to rewire an AC/DC radio (for those competent to take the task on):

 
Rick

You are correct about the 750 amps put out by the heater. The base of some of the bulbs have 250 amps written on them by hand (actually 250 C which I guess was meant to mean "current"). The number and letter strokes look like they were made by a fountain pen.

The base of the bulbs have the patent date stamped on them, don't know why the amp rating was hand written unless the base was used for multiple bulb styles so the amp info was left off or hand written - unknown if written by the manufacturer or at a later date.
 
LordKenmore thanks for the additional info

as I said I am to dumb (and chicken when it comes to dealing with electricity) to fix my radios myself so I of course would not have that knowledge...I appreciate your sharing it with me. I always like to learn something new that pertains to something I am interested in.....PAT COFFEY
 
The second "option" would require ballast circuit and ignitor for Hi Pressure Sodium lamps.The Hi pressure Sodium lamp is most efficent in putting out LIGHT not heat.This would turn the heater into a very efficent light fixture.
 

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