1966 General Electric Spacemaker 19 Refrigerator MOD. TCF19DBC P.2

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

Help Support :

Start and Run capacitors...

Hi Louis; it can get confusing with all the relays and capacitors and those kind of things!  Here's a run-down on the differences.

 

Original type relay. This is a "current relay" which engages the start winding when the compressor is drawing a high level of current because it's not running yet. It only engages the start winding when necessary, disengaging it at the moment the compressor starts. It will work again immediately if the compressor is stopped and re-started. There is no time waiting required. This has to be matched to the compressor so it kicks in and out at the correct current level, based on the compressor motor requirement.

 

The Supco RCO and RO devices. This is the 3-in-1 or the smaller one you linked above without the capacitor. This is not really a relay at all. It's a timing device. I won't go into how it works, but will explain what it does.  This device provides power to the compressor's start winding for a short period of time, once, each time the compressor is powered on. The device does not know if the compressor started or not - it just sends a timed start signal.  The timing device also requires a reset time of up to  5 minutes. If the power is removed then re-applied before this time has elapsed, there will be no start winding activation and the compressor will not start.

 

Capacitors alter the relationship between the AC waveforms going to the run and start winding. This is called "phase shift."  It generates a rotating magnetic field to get the motor going.

 

Start capacitor has a relatively large capacitance value. It generates a strong phase shifted signal with the motor at stalled or very low speeds. However, it will generate an excess voltage and high current if it continues to operate while the motor is at full speed; resulting in damage. It is used with a start relay or timed start device such as the Supco. The 3-in-1 has a start capacitor in it.

 

Run capacitor (or permanent capacitor) provides the correct level of voltage and phase shift while the motor is under normal running conditions. It has a smaller capacitance value than the start capacitor; and can operate continuously. This capacitor will not provide much starting torque while the motor is at a standstill. While running the effect is an increase in efficiency (less amps needed to do the same work).

 

Often systems will have both start and run caps. The start cap has a switching system so it only works during starting. The run cap is permanently connected and stays in circuit at all times.

 

Hope this is useful info!

 

 
 
I think we're in business...

 

 

Original GE Relay #WR7X85 Type 3ARR12PK125A

(Pick-up current AMPS. 11.6 Drop-out current AMPS. 9.9)<span style="left: 608.16px; top: 841.344px; font-size: 31.36px; font-family: serif; transform: scaleX(1.13308);">
</span>

 

Cross referenced with MARS 27006 and GEM CR316

 

 

 

[this post was last edited: 8/13/2019-06:59]

ultramatic-2019081301554005763_1.jpg
 
Looking forward to seeing how it works out. Hoping for the best. Are you planning on adding a run capacitor?
 
 

 

The GEM CR316 relay has arrived, but the <strong>MARS 35012 overload protector is now "not available". Funny how they take your money and only tell you it's not available after you inquire on the status of the order. I found another source and ordered it. So let's wait some more.
</strong>

 

overload_protector__11687.1396896620.800.800.jpg


 

350 Series 3/4" motor protectors

HP @ 110/115V: 1/5, 1/4, 1/3

HP @ 208/240V: 1/2

 

 
 
Guardette saga continues...

 

 

Had to cancel the last order for the motor overload protector because the model was incorrect. However I did find a direct replacement of ebay (MARS 35012) and ordered that. Let's wait some more.
 
 

 

Well the new Guardette replacement arrived today. Notice the rating for HP. At 110/115 Volts It's good for up to 1/4 HP. This refrigerator is 1/3 HP. After extensive cross referencing, the 35012 was the direct equivalent to the original WRWR7X83 Type 3ARG1C28. I read somewhere that you can not determine the correct overload protector using the HP rating alone.


 



 

 
If you are so compelled .....

here is the schematic updated for a start and run cap added to the circuit. I am assuming you said it was a 1/3 hp compressor, but these cap values would be good for 1/4 to 1/3 hp.

The run cap would be:

https://www.speedyapplianceparts.com/frigidaire-5304464438-refrigerator-capacitor-replacement/

The start cap would be:

https://www.mccombssupply.com/packard-ptmj243-motor-start-capacitor-243-292-mfd-uf-220-250-vac/

I would run these part numbers thru ebay and probably will find the best price for these 2 caps.

In simple terms, a Start Capacitor holds an extra charge to get a motor moving. Whereas a Run Capacitor keeps a motor running smooth with no up and down spikes. The run cap also lowers the power factor that is inherent to an AC motor and lowers the "stress" on the motor increasing its overall life. But if a motor did not have a run cap or a start cap in the first place, then the "need" for either almost becomes a moot point. The motor was therefore built well/heavy enough to start/run without either cap. But adding them won't hurt anything. If you get "added life" out of the compressor motor by adding a run and/or start cap would be speculative at best.

I just did this very same thing to a '55 Philco 2-door refrigerator with a 1/3 hp compressor and it has been running nicely for a while now. But I did it because on start-up of the compressor, it had a slight hesitation for the first split second. With the start cap added it has no hesitation whatsoever and actually sounds like it has less of a load or strain at start-up. I added the run cap to lower the power factor .... and with it added, my Kill-a-Watt meter showed that normal run current lowered from 2.1 amps average, to 1.7 amps .... so I left the run cap in the circuit to "maybe" add life to the original '55 compressor. Again can only be a speculative debate, but less current inherently sounds like a good thing for the same amount of work.

Cheers!

BTW, no warranty expressed or implied. lol

Bud - Atlanta[this post was last edited: 8/24/2019-12:23]

sfh074-2019082410561600196_1.png
 
 

 

The original Guardette has both wires attached to the #1 tab. The replacement MARS has one wire at the #1 tab. The other wire at the #3 tab. If I am reading the schematic correctly, the #3 with would plug into the relay. The #1 wire would be connecting to the orange wire coming from the refrigerator cabinet.

 



[this post was last edited: 8/31/2019-23:19]
 
This mess.

 

 

The original wiring coming off the power cord schematic. I am taking guesses here since what I have doesn't exactly match the schematics I am using.

 

<script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

 



[this post was last edited: 8/31/2019-22:59]
 

Latest posts

Back
Top