Here is the lower pump housing that accommodates the seal. Looks like there was a bite taken out of fan, but I think it will be OK. Just shows this machine - Who I now name Kaddi (with an I for imperial) had a hard life.
Can a KitchenAid (KDI16) be saved? Anyone?
- Thread starter neptunebob
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I figured it out!
Finally! The metal ring fits into the rubber turbine to create the seal. Using the Dawn with Olay as a lube (and I mean this to be G Rated), it slips in perfectly.
Toward the left is the old impeller. It lifted right out. I don't know how it ever turned at all.
Finally! The metal ring fits into the rubber turbine to create the seal. Using the Dawn with Olay as a lube (and I mean this to be G Rated), it slips in perfectly.
Toward the left is the old impeller. It lifted right out. I don't know how it ever turned at all.
Oh no! I can't believe that the Nikon camera I like so much shows Every Wrinkle of my fingers!
The lower seal fits right into the housing, again using Dawn with Olay. There is enough clearance I don't think the "bite" will be an issue.
The lower stationary seal in place in the housing. It's not grease, it's only the best - Dawn with Olay!
Its a bit hard to see with all the black....
But I had some difficulty getting the impeller on the shaft. Then I remembered a tip that I saw I think on Deadliest Catch. Have to go to work now so stay tuned, I'll tell you how it turns out (I do get it installed, so I won't keep all of you in suspense)
But I had some difficulty getting the impeller on the shaft. Then I remembered a tip that I saw I think on Deadliest Catch. Have to go to work now so stay tuned, I'll tell you how it turns out (I do get it installed, so I won't keep all of you in suspense)
stevet
Well-known member
Be careful...Hold your horses!
Bob, that chunk out of the fan is going to give you a problem. Before you install the motor back in to the machine, set it up and do a water test on the table by pouring water into the housing. There are shims that sit on top of the fan to prevent the drain impeller from bottoming out and scraping the housing.
The fan probably deteriorated because the seal leaked a little bit until it corroded the fan enough for a piece to break off.
I just looked around to see if I had one but to no avail.
You may have to beg for one here or try Hobart.
The part number for the fan is 108642 and it takes one o-ring part number 67500-30(you may have to buy a whole bag of them as they are sold in min qtys of 5 or 10). There may be no fans around now since they buy the new style motors from Whirlpool which are made by Emerson but will come with a capacitor and seal kit as well. Also,it is less expensive to buy the motor thru a WP parts outlet than from Hobart. The markup is very high on them at Hobart.
Hope this helps
Steve
Bob, that chunk out of the fan is going to give you a problem. Before you install the motor back in to the machine, set it up and do a water test on the table by pouring water into the housing. There are shims that sit on top of the fan to prevent the drain impeller from bottoming out and scraping the housing.
The fan probably deteriorated because the seal leaked a little bit until it corroded the fan enough for a piece to break off.
I just looked around to see if I had one but to no avail.
You may have to beg for one here or try Hobart.
The part number for the fan is 108642 and it takes one o-ring part number 67500-30(you may have to buy a whole bag of them as they are sold in min qtys of 5 or 10). There may be no fans around now since they buy the new style motors from Whirlpool which are made by Emerson but will come with a capacitor and seal kit as well. Also,it is less expensive to buy the motor thru a WP parts outlet than from Hobart. The markup is very high on them at Hobart.
Hope this helps
Steve
Sorry, steve, but its a bit late...
But there is good news: The seal works and there is nary a leak!
Now that I have the impeller on, there is no way I can get it off (what do you repair people do?). I used a tip I think I saw on Deadliest Catch:
On on of their ships, they needed a part for a generator that they did not have and it was a long way to shore to get a new one. So the engineer machined a metal part on his lathe but it had to fit tightly to another machine. So he put this part in the kitchen oven and heated it up, expanding the part to fit on the shaft. What I did here was place the shaft of the motor upside down on a glass of ice water (I kept the motor itself dry). Then I placed the impeller in a cup of tea. It slipped on with some resistance just right. In fact, I don't see a leak at all, yay!
But now bad news: I can't get the motor to go at all. It is not getting any electricity at all. This problem started when my brother Sam insisted that he unscrew the heating element and soak it in his solution from work. Now the element looks narrower and I wonder if that has something to do with no power. When you plug it in and turn it on the timer works but the light and nothing else does. We tried bypassing the element (turning it into an energy saver) and still no luck so we put the connection back on.
Sam says he is determined to find this loose connection. After all, he has a Bachelor of Science in Electrical Engineering BSEE!
Also, we may be getting another KA. Sam has a girlfriend who wants a whole new kitchen and wants her 90s KA gone because "it is not sleek". Their relationship is on and off though, so we may or may not get it, because he makes him do a lot of work at her house, making him her slave.
I know, this thread is turning into a soap opera, isn't it?
Oh, and if all is lost (I don't think it is)I will give away parts.
Steve, I wanted to thank you for all your help, its been quite a learning experience. Bob.
But there is good news: The seal works and there is nary a leak!
Now that I have the impeller on, there is no way I can get it off (what do you repair people do?). I used a tip I think I saw on Deadliest Catch:
On on of their ships, they needed a part for a generator that they did not have and it was a long way to shore to get a new one. So the engineer machined a metal part on his lathe but it had to fit tightly to another machine. So he put this part in the kitchen oven and heated it up, expanding the part to fit on the shaft. What I did here was place the shaft of the motor upside down on a glass of ice water (I kept the motor itself dry). Then I placed the impeller in a cup of tea. It slipped on with some resistance just right. In fact, I don't see a leak at all, yay!
But now bad news: I can't get the motor to go at all. It is not getting any electricity at all. This problem started when my brother Sam insisted that he unscrew the heating element and soak it in his solution from work. Now the element looks narrower and I wonder if that has something to do with no power. When you plug it in and turn it on the timer works but the light and nothing else does. We tried bypassing the element (turning it into an energy saver) and still no luck so we put the connection back on.
Sam says he is determined to find this loose connection. After all, he has a Bachelor of Science in Electrical Engineering BSEE!
Also, we may be getting another KA. Sam has a girlfriend who wants a whole new kitchen and wants her 90s KA gone because "it is not sleek". Their relationship is on and off though, so we may or may not get it, because he makes him do a lot of work at her house, making him her slave.
I know, this thread is turning into a soap opera, isn't it?
Oh, and if all is lost (I don't think it is)I will give away parts.
Steve, I wanted to thank you for all your help, its been quite a learning experience. Bob.
Some of you asked about rust and I am glad to tell you - even after 42 years there hardly is any! Mostly just a lot of crud.
Where the door and the tub meet, in an area not visible in the photo is a slime monster I have to clean up. I think it is caused by a lot of lasagna and my BIL likes to use only half an Electrsol tab because he thinks it saves money. This is the one who spends 700 dollars on weights.
Please, do us repairmen all a favor, use enough detergent!
Where the door and the tub meet, in an area not visible in the photo is a slime monster I have to clean up. I think it is caused by a lot of lasagna and my BIL likes to use only half an Electrsol tab because he thinks it saves money. This is the one who spends 700 dollars on weights.
Please, do us repairmen all a favor, use enough detergent!
Even the sump has very little rust - just crap.
Here's a color I never seen before.
Really the grossest part of this was the custom panel kit: The frame was rusting, actually smelled, its a good thing my tetanus was updated. The wood was actually rotting at the bottom. Underneath was this kind of beige matte finish. I might leave it this way as I kind of like it. I didn't know they had "toast' back then.
What I plan to do is set up a cabinet and counter in our game room with a sink on the left and Kaddi on the right and that way we have a place to prepare food and entertain and we can have the KA mixer and coffe maker set up on top. Bajahuma can you visualize this and make a CADD picture of it? I like them. The counter will be about 6 feet long.
Really the grossest part of this was the custom panel kit: The frame was rusting, actually smelled, its a good thing my tetanus was updated. The wood was actually rotting at the bottom. Underneath was this kind of beige matte finish. I might leave it this way as I kind of like it. I didn't know they had "toast' back then.
What I plan to do is set up a cabinet and counter in our game room with a sink on the left and Kaddi on the right and that way we have a place to prepare food and entertain and we can have the KA mixer and coffe maker set up on top. Bajahuma can you visualize this and make a CADD picture of it? I like them. The counter will be about 6 feet long.
I imagine the matte beige finish is the "primed panel" they sold to be painted by the customer for those who wanted something other than the standard colors.
Update, and it is not good... Give me some time to sulk....
First the good news, we found the loose connection, turns out one of the connections to the program switch was dislodged. But now the motor has issues. It buzzes and will not go. Oh, it will go if you turn the impeller before starting it but then you have a water swirler and not a dishwasher. When the motor is running, the sounds it makes make my skin crawl. I must have been in denial about the condition of the motor, it is more far gone than I thought. By the way, the shaft turns freely, so I don't think it is binding. It just will not go "on its own initiative".
I just need some time to think about what to do next. If anyone wants parts the offer still stands. I probably can keep him in the garage until it is really cold then I will be pressured to get it out. I can get the door off, I know the timer is rare but I cannot unscrew it from the door. I will probably save the pump parts as well. Steve, I will also take the blower too.
If I go ahead with a new (emerson?) motor would it have the same screw holes for the pump as the original? I don't know how I am going to get the new seal/impeller off - maybe a "pulley puller"? Spending 200 for a motor is getting into new dishwasher territory.
I am trying not to feel too bad. Doctors don't save every life, I guess I don't have to either.
Give me a week I will let you know if I part him out.
First the good news, we found the loose connection, turns out one of the connections to the program switch was dislodged. But now the motor has issues. It buzzes and will not go. Oh, it will go if you turn the impeller before starting it but then you have a water swirler and not a dishwasher. When the motor is running, the sounds it makes make my skin crawl. I must have been in denial about the condition of the motor, it is more far gone than I thought. By the way, the shaft turns freely, so I don't think it is binding. It just will not go "on its own initiative".
I just need some time to think about what to do next. If anyone wants parts the offer still stands. I probably can keep him in the garage until it is really cold then I will be pressured to get it out. I can get the door off, I know the timer is rare but I cannot unscrew it from the door. I will probably save the pump parts as well. Steve, I will also take the blower too.
If I go ahead with a new (emerson?) motor would it have the same screw holes for the pump as the original? I don't know how I am going to get the new seal/impeller off - maybe a "pulley puller"? Spending 200 for a motor is getting into new dishwasher territory.
I am trying not to feel too bad. Doctors don't save every life, I guess I don't have to either.
Give me a week I will let you know if I part him out.
stevet
Well-known member
Fret not..It aint gone yet!
Bob, you need part number 4171907 which lists for 145.21 thru sears.com and therefore should be available elsewhere as well. That is a pretty decent price for a complete motor with seal and gaskets.
It seems strange that your motor isn't turning faster that you say it ism but chalk it up to experience. Replace the motor and you can probably get at least another 20 years out of the machine.
And to answer one of your questions, yes all the holes will line up perfectly on the new motor.
Here is the link to sears, but you can try other parts houses and even ebay!
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...65?pathTaken=partSearch&filterPart=&pop=flush
Bob, you need part number 4171907 which lists for 145.21 thru sears.com and therefore should be available elsewhere as well. That is a pretty decent price for a complete motor with seal and gaskets.
It seems strange that your motor isn't turning faster that you say it ism but chalk it up to experience. Replace the motor and you can probably get at least another 20 years out of the machine.
And to answer one of your questions, yes all the holes will line up perfectly on the new motor.
Here is the link to sears, but you can try other parts houses and even ebay!
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...65?pathTaken=partSearch&filterPart=&pop=flush
Thanks, Steve, I'll look into it, I appreciate it. I just need a week to sulk and figure out what to do. I wonder if I want to put that much of my money into it. Looks like someone else in the area is looking for a classic KA too. Do you think I should save Kaddi or should I part him out? Anyone want the parts?
This all has been a great learning experience but one thing I think I have learned is that some appliances may be just too far gone if people really used them heavily. We collectors should stick to estate sales where the owners were little old ladies that did not use them much.
This all has been a great learning experience but one thing I think I have learned is that some appliances may be just too far gone if people really used them heavily. We collectors should stick to estate sales where the owners were little old ladies that did not use them much.
stevet
Well-known member
Sulk ?
If you get rid of that machine without having conquered it first, you will regret your decision and sulk even longer over its loss! I have tossed many machines and parts from them only to wish I had saved them, but sometimes space is at a premium and a wife hounding me to clean the garage is a powerful motivator!
I say keep it even as a spare machine or if you entertain alot, as a secondary unit to do the extra dishes while the daily driver is doing a load too.
As some guys here will attest,I have a spare unit in my garage that is hooked up and whether it is a Kenmore, Whilrpool or Kitchenaid, I always have spare capacity for extra pots and pans, dishes and such.
If you get rid of that machine without having conquered it first, you will regret your decision and sulk even longer over its loss! I have tossed many machines and parts from them only to wish I had saved them, but sometimes space is at a premium and a wife hounding me to clean the garage is a powerful motivator!
I say keep it even as a spare machine or if you entertain alot, as a secondary unit to do the extra dishes while the daily driver is doing a load too.
As some guys here will attest,I have a spare unit in my garage that is hooked up and whether it is a Kenmore, Whilrpool or Kitchenaid, I always have spare capacity for extra pots and pans, dishes and such.
kd-16 leak out the door
working on this kdi-16 for my girlfriend's mother. water drips from the bottom corners of the door. First time I tested, it was the left side of the door on the first cycle and the right side on the second cycle. That seemed odd. I have replaced the tar-like goo along the spot-welds inside the door and at the corners with silicone, as it was hard in some places, very soft in others, and I felt water coming through the tar in the corners near the hinges before I took the front of the door off. The tar was pulling out and the leak slowed appreciably when I pushed it back in, but it was very soft, so I replaced it with silicone when I opened the door up. Seems to leak when the machine is filled and slinging water (not surprisingly). I'm wondering if it is filling too high and sloshing out? I'm going to take another look tomorrow or the next day. I have wondered if the door seal might have shrunk in length, so I extended that a bit with some silicone and magnets. I covered the door seal with duct tape to add a little thickness, but it didn't help. It has me puzzled. I was so sure it was the tar-stuff at the left and right sides that I didn't take the front off the door the last time I tested it, and there wasn't time after that test. It made it through a cycle with no leak, but offered a couple drops on the second and some teaspoons on the third. It appears that this machine does not have a float overfill shutoff device? The dryer mushroom in the back doesn't have a float in it, does it? How does this thing know how much water is in it? She is 80 (the mom) and getting frustrated with the leak and is talking about going to Sears. She has company coming for Christmas. I hate to see a machine like this go to the landfill. I tell her it is a great machine, if we can just find out how the water is getting into the door and out onto the floor. It seems to be landing on the rubber strip at the bottom and dripping out the corner. The whole strip gets wet. I don't have a book, so I don't know what's supposed to be there. Seems to me it ought to be made so that sloshed water would be redirected back inside the cabinet. I reworked the door springs a couple years ago when the ends broke off of them. Is there any sort of seal or flap that is supposed to keep water from sloshing up into the door? I am thinking of installing a silicone flap on the door with neodymium magnets just to break up the sloshing. (it's made for plugging the gap between stove and counter or between washer and dryer). It's a great machine. No chips, no rust. Not much paint on the timer panel, but enough to kinda figure out what it's supposed to be doing. I haven't watched it leak with the front of the door off, but if it is overfilling or oversloshing, there's nothing in the door that can stop the tsunami. I know some newer machines have some sort of diverter at the corners where the door meets the cabinet, but I haven't seen evidence that this machine had them. I don't see evidence that the detergent dispenser seal is leaking. Any ideas?
working on this kdi-16 for my girlfriend's mother. water drips from the bottom corners of the door. First time I tested, it was the left side of the door on the first cycle and the right side on the second cycle. That seemed odd. I have replaced the tar-like goo along the spot-welds inside the door and at the corners with silicone, as it was hard in some places, very soft in others, and I felt water coming through the tar in the corners near the hinges before I took the front of the door off. The tar was pulling out and the leak slowed appreciably when I pushed it back in, but it was very soft, so I replaced it with silicone when I opened the door up. Seems to leak when the machine is filled and slinging water (not surprisingly). I'm wondering if it is filling too high and sloshing out? I'm going to take another look tomorrow or the next day. I have wondered if the door seal might have shrunk in length, so I extended that a bit with some silicone and magnets. I covered the door seal with duct tape to add a little thickness, but it didn't help. It has me puzzled. I was so sure it was the tar-stuff at the left and right sides that I didn't take the front off the door the last time I tested it, and there wasn't time after that test. It made it through a cycle with no leak, but offered a couple drops on the second and some teaspoons on the third. It appears that this machine does not have a float overfill shutoff device? The dryer mushroom in the back doesn't have a float in it, does it? How does this thing know how much water is in it? She is 80 (the mom) and getting frustrated with the leak and is talking about going to Sears. She has company coming for Christmas. I hate to see a machine like this go to the landfill. I tell her it is a great machine, if we can just find out how the water is getting into the door and out onto the floor. It seems to be landing on the rubber strip at the bottom and dripping out the corner. The whole strip gets wet. I don't have a book, so I don't know what's supposed to be there. Seems to me it ought to be made so that sloshed water would be redirected back inside the cabinet. I reworked the door springs a couple years ago when the ends broke off of them. Is there any sort of seal or flap that is supposed to keep water from sloshing up into the door? I am thinking of installing a silicone flap on the door with neodymium magnets just to break up the sloshing. (it's made for plugging the gap between stove and counter or between washer and dryer). It's a great machine. No chips, no rust. Not much paint on the timer panel, but enough to kinda figure out what it's supposed to be doing. I haven't watched it leak with the front of the door off, but if it is overfilling or oversloshing, there's nothing in the door that can stop the tsunami. I know some newer machines have some sort of diverter at the corners where the door meets the cabinet, but I haven't seen evidence that this machine had them. I don't see evidence that the detergent dispenser seal is leaking. Any ideas?
Why on God's green earth are we resurrecting a 3+ year old thread instead of starting a new one.????????
Likely because people find old threads on searches (Google or whichever) and can post to them since the archives have been opened to reactivation.
There's no float to control the fill level. Fills are timed (probably two timer increments), with a flow-washer in the water valve to limit the flow rate against various potential household water pressures.
If the 16 series is same as the 17 series, overfill is detected via a pressure switch connected to the pump sump area.
If overfilling is happening, the water level can possibly contact the spray arm which would slosh some out of the door vent. The normal fill level is to near top of the filter mesh, below the spray arm.
stevet
Well-known member
Backed into a corner?
Warren,
Does your rack have the small plastic shields clipped to the front corners of the rack? These were put there to prevent water from splashing out of the door and running down the side of the machine that forms the area that the door fits into.
That may be your whole problem.
Also, by now, the door gasket is probably pretty dry and you may want to draw the door in tighter when it latches.
This is a simple task,but involves removing the control panel cover and the dioor handle.
If you do that much, you just have to shim out the latch assembly by putting in thin washers one at a time between the latch and the bracket that holds it to the door and reinstalling the screws. Start with one in each corner of the latch and see if that helps. New door gaskets should still be out there.
And yes, there is a pressure switch that controls for overfilling but sometimes the opening in the sump gets clogged up. It is on the left side so you may want to take a Q-tip and clean it out and see if it works better and the leaking stops.
Don't push too hard as you may cause damage. Pretend you are putting the Q-tip into your ear!
Warren,
Does your rack have the small plastic shields clipped to the front corners of the rack? These were put there to prevent water from splashing out of the door and running down the side of the machine that forms the area that the door fits into.
That may be your whole problem.
Also, by now, the door gasket is probably pretty dry and you may want to draw the door in tighter when it latches.
This is a simple task,but involves removing the control panel cover and the dioor handle.
If you do that much, you just have to shim out the latch assembly by putting in thin washers one at a time between the latch and the bracket that holds it to the door and reinstalling the screws. Start with one in each corner of the latch and see if that helps. New door gaskets should still be out there.
And yes, there is a pressure switch that controls for overfilling but sometimes the opening in the sump gets clogged up. It is on the left side so you may want to take a Q-tip and clean it out and see if it works better and the leaking stops.
Don't push too hard as you may cause damage. Pretend you are putting the Q-tip into your ear!
Yes, it was a google search. I was overjoyed to find people who knew what they were talking about, who were talking about exactly the machine that I was wrestling with. I hope I wasn't too enthusiastic. DADoES mentioned the door vent. I had wondered about that. Does it vent through the bottom of the door? The machine is 2 hours away, so I have to fill my head in one location and then empty it through my hands in another. Thinking that it might be blowing out the vent, I was considering adding a temporary silicone flap to break up slosh toward the bottom of the door. The spray arms seem tight, so I don't thing I'm getting an errant stream shooting right at the door from the hub. I don't think it's filling to the bottom of the spray arm, but the machine is in an otherwise-immaculate kitchen and I'm never left alone with it, so I can't run it with the door open very far to see what's going on, and if I peer through a crack at the top, my glasses fog up too badly. I have (briefly) considered making a fake door out of plexiglass... What I really want to do is show up with a mop sometime when nobody is home. When I open the door mid-cycle, the water is not at the level of the spray arm. I'll check it against the filter. Maybe the flow-rate washer is eaten up? I'll look for what might be a pressure switch in the pump sump. Has anybody else had this kind of problem (water dribbling out the bottom of the door)? I know it's not as interesting as motor bearings and pump seals, but it's all I've got right now. I really do appreciate your experience, you willingness to share it, and your dedication to keeping these machines going. I have access (at the Habitat ReStore) to a dozen dishwashers for $20 or less, but I would rather get this one to stop dripping for a multitude of reasons, not the least of which is that this lovely woman won't have to learn new buttons and dials and sounds. She has been using this machine for 40 years and is familiar and comfortable with it, and is not a big fan of change. But she doesn't want water on her floor. If it were mine, I'd get through Christmas with a dribble cup under each corner, but when I mention that, she gives me that pained 'you've got to be kidding me' look.
danemodsandy
Well-known member
Mark:
"Why on God's green earth are we resurrecting a 3+ year old thread instead of starting a new one?"
So we can all ask Neptunebob how his resurrection of the KDI16 turned out!
One of the things that I sometimes wish was different around here is that we have a lot of threads just - you should pardon the expression - peter out. We hear of a problem, there are responses offering advice and resources, often the appliance's owner begins work and posts photos of progress, and then - nothing.
This thread is a classic example. After more than 70 posts, we didn't get the end of the story.
So, Bob, how's it shakin'?
"Why on God's green earth are we resurrecting a 3+ year old thread instead of starting a new one?"
So we can all ask Neptunebob how his resurrection of the KDI16 turned out!
One of the things that I sometimes wish was different around here is that we have a lot of threads just - you should pardon the expression - peter out. We hear of a problem, there are responses offering advice and resources, often the appliance's owner begins work and posts photos of progress, and then - nothing.
This thread is a classic example. After more than 70 posts, we didn't get the end of the story.
So, Bob, how's it shakin'?
stevet,
these are clips on the front of the bottom dish rack? On the top or the bottom? I don't have it in front of me...
I think every time I have tested the machine, it has been with the bottom rack sitting on the kitchen table (they have been using it for storage...) That would probably render any clips, even if they are still attached, less effective. I'll look through the photos in this thread and see if I can find what they look like.
The door seals are pretty hard, but I don't know what they are supposed to feel like. They grab a piece of paper, and a layer of duct tape on them didn't seem to help the problem. I chased a bunch of sets on the internet, but they ended up being out of stock. I found one that really existed, but it was kinda' pricey and I didn't want to install it unless I was sure that was the problem.
If I heard this right, the clips may cause the drip?
Are these clips still available?
I'll take a look around.
these are clips on the front of the bottom dish rack? On the top or the bottom? I don't have it in front of me...
I think every time I have tested the machine, it has been with the bottom rack sitting on the kitchen table (they have been using it for storage...) That would probably render any clips, even if they are still attached, less effective. I'll look through the photos in this thread and see if I can find what they look like.
The door seals are pretty hard, but I don't know what they are supposed to feel like. They grab a piece of paper, and a layer of duct tape on them didn't seem to help the problem. I chased a bunch of sets on the internet, but they ended up being out of stock. I found one that really existed, but it was kinda' pricey and I didn't want to install it unless I was sure that was the problem.
If I heard this right, the clips may cause the drip?
Are these clips still available?
I'll take a look around.
clips n drips
stevet,
looking at bob's rack-shot in this thread, I don't see anything that looks anti-splash on the bottom rack. Were you talking about the black clips on the end of the metal mechanism that holds the top rack?
I would love to hear more about these clips, especially if they might be the complete cause of this problem. I could imagine that something like a clip of some kind might have fallen off or broken off at some point, and someone found it at the strainer at some point and wondered briefly what it was and then disposed of it.
My mind doesn't work like that. When I find something mysterious, I have to know where it came from and what it does. I realize that some folks would rather dispense with mysterious items that clutter up the free flow of the known and the comfortable. I think it may be one of those 'two kind of people in the world' things.
I sometimes wonder what it's like to live life filled with the kind of magic that expresses itself like that: 'Oh, look! There's another black plastic thingie in my dishwasher that seems to have appeared from nowhere, or from another dimension or something. I may have a magic dishwasher, or at least a dishwasher with the wormhole generator feature. So what should I do with these oddly-shaped articles that seem to defy logic and physics, or operate with quantum qualities, but at levels well beyond the subatomic? I think I'll toss it them in the trash.'
Does this machine have some things that sit in the bottom front corners by the door, I think I have seen them called 'diverters'.
Thank you (some say y'all down here) for helping me out with this.
warren
stevet,
looking at bob's rack-shot in this thread, I don't see anything that looks anti-splash on the bottom rack. Were you talking about the black clips on the end of the metal mechanism that holds the top rack?
I would love to hear more about these clips, especially if they might be the complete cause of this problem. I could imagine that something like a clip of some kind might have fallen off or broken off at some point, and someone found it at the strainer at some point and wondered briefly what it was and then disposed of it.
My mind doesn't work like that. When I find something mysterious, I have to know where it came from and what it does. I realize that some folks would rather dispense with mysterious items that clutter up the free flow of the known and the comfortable. I think it may be one of those 'two kind of people in the world' things.
I sometimes wonder what it's like to live life filled with the kind of magic that expresses itself like that: 'Oh, look! There's another black plastic thingie in my dishwasher that seems to have appeared from nowhere, or from another dimension or something. I may have a magic dishwasher, or at least a dishwasher with the wormhole generator feature. So what should I do with these oddly-shaped articles that seem to defy logic and physics, or operate with quantum qualities, but at levels well beyond the subatomic? I think I'll toss it them in the trash.'
Does this machine have some things that sit in the bottom front corners by the door, I think I have seen them called 'diverters'.
Thank you (some say y'all down here) for helping me out with this.
warren
Picture of the lower rack clips (front corners) from a newer machine.
DADoES' rack clips
Those do appear to be the kind of clips that wouldn't function well when the rack is on the kitchen table. Even if they are present on the rack. Do they run all the way down the corner of the rack? I wonder if they are even present on this machine (2 hours away)? I wonder if I can still get some if they are not? I wonder if I can make some out of the strip of silicone in the trunk of my car? I wonder if the wormhole generator will recognize them as a foreign object and send them off into another dimension? I wonder what some Being somewhere will think when these squishy inert flaps magically appear in her dishwasher?
Those do appear to be the kind of clips that wouldn't function well when the rack is on the kitchen table. Even if they are present on the rack. Do they run all the way down the corner of the rack? I wonder if they are even present on this machine (2 hours away)? I wonder if I can still get some if they are not? I wonder if I can make some out of the strip of silicone in the trunk of my car? I wonder if the wormhole generator will recognize them as a foreign object and send them off into another dimension? I wonder what some Being somewhere will think when these squishy inert flaps magically appear in her dishwasher?
downloaded the manual. should be useful, if not just plain interesting. found the clips. they don't run down the whole corner of the rack. now i need to find some clips. or get creative with some silicone or stainless steel or plastic or something. if they don't help, I'll q-tip the pressure ear canal. and then adjust the door. and then install small clear funnels on the corners with tubes that go under the machine and through the floor to the dirt crawl space below..
I once fixed a dripping showerhead with a piece of string that led the drops gently to the plastic shower floor. didn't save any water, but i got some sleep.
I once fixed a dripping showerhead with a piece of string that led the drops gently to the plastic shower floor. didn't save any water, but i got some sleep.
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