Can a KitchenAid (KDI16) be saved? Anyone?

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It lets you know it is made in the USA!

It seems like they take every opportunity to tell you - KitchenAid! Made in Troy, Ohio! (I think it might be near Dayton?)
 
Here is the lower pump housing that accommodates the seal. Looks like there was a bite taken out of fan, but I think it will be OK. Just shows this machine - Who I now name Kaddi (with an I for imperial) had a hard life.

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I figured it out!

Finally! The metal ring fits into the rubber turbine to create the seal. Using the Dawn with Olay as a lube (and I mean this to be G Rated), it slips in perfectly.

Toward the left is the old impeller. It lifted right out. I don't know how it ever turned at all.

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The lower seal fits right into the housing, again using Dawn with Olay. There is enough clearance I don't think the "bite" will be an issue.

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Its a bit hard to see with all the black....

But I had some difficulty getting the impeller on the shaft. Then I remembered a tip that I saw I think on Deadliest Catch. Have to go to work now so stay tuned, I'll tell you how it turns out (I do get it installed, so I won't keep all of you in suspense)

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Be careful...Hold your horses!

Bob, that chunk out of the fan is going to give you a problem. Before you install the motor back in to the machine, set it up and do a water test on the table by pouring water into the housing. There are shims that sit on top of the fan to prevent the drain impeller from bottoming out and scraping the housing.
The fan probably deteriorated because the seal leaked a little bit until it corroded the fan enough for a piece to break off.

I just looked around to see if I had one but to no avail.
You may have to beg for one here or try Hobart.
The part number for the fan is 108642 and it takes one o-ring part number 67500-30(you may have to buy a whole bag of them as they are sold in min qtys of 5 or 10). There may be no fans around now since they buy the new style motors from Whirlpool which are made by Emerson but will come with a capacitor and seal kit as well. Also,it is less expensive to buy the motor thru a WP parts outlet than from Hobart. The markup is very high on them at Hobart.
Hope this helps
Steve
 
Sorry, steve, but its a bit late...

But there is good news: The seal works and there is nary a leak!

Now that I have the impeller on, there is no way I can get it off (what do you repair people do?). I used a tip I think I saw on Deadliest Catch:

On on of their ships, they needed a part for a generator that they did not have and it was a long way to shore to get a new one. So the engineer machined a metal part on his lathe but it had to fit tightly to another machine. So he put this part in the kitchen oven and heated it up, expanding the part to fit on the shaft. What I did here was place the shaft of the motor upside down on a glass of ice water (I kept the motor itself dry). Then I placed the impeller in a cup of tea. It slipped on with some resistance just right. In fact, I don't see a leak at all, yay!

But now bad news: I can't get the motor to go at all. It is not getting any electricity at all. This problem started when my brother Sam insisted that he unscrew the heating element and soak it in his solution from work. Now the element looks narrower and I wonder if that has something to do with no power. When you plug it in and turn it on the timer works but the light and nothing else does. We tried bypassing the element (turning it into an energy saver) and still no luck so we put the connection back on.

Sam says he is determined to find this loose connection. After all, he has a Bachelor of Science in Electrical Engineering BSEE!

Also, we may be getting another KA. Sam has a girlfriend who wants a whole new kitchen and wants her 90s KA gone because "it is not sleek". Their relationship is on and off though, so we may or may not get it, because he makes him do a lot of work at her house, making him her slave.

I know, this thread is turning into a soap opera, isn't it?

Oh, and if all is lost (I don't think it is)I will give away parts.

Steve, I wanted to thank you for all your help, its been quite a learning experience. Bob.
 
Some of you asked about rust and I am glad to tell you - even after 42 years there hardly is any! Mostly just a lot of crud.

Where the door and the tub meet, in an area not visible in the photo is a slime monster I have to clean up. I think it is caused by a lot of lasagna and my BIL likes to use only half an Electrsol tab because he thinks it saves money. This is the one who spends 700 dollars on weights.

Please, do us repairmen all a favor, use enough detergent!

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Here's a color I never seen before.

Really the grossest part of this was the custom panel kit: The frame was rusting, actually smelled, its a good thing my tetanus was updated. The wood was actually rotting at the bottom. Underneath was this kind of beige matte finish. I might leave it this way as I kind of like it. I didn't know they had "toast' back then.

What I plan to do is set up a cabinet and counter in our game room with a sink on the left and Kaddi on the right and that way we have a place to prepare food and entertain and we can have the KA mixer and coffe maker set up on top. Bajahuma can you visualize this and make a CADD picture of it? I like them. The counter will be about 6 feet long.

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Update, and it is not good... Give me some time to sulk....

First the good news, we found the loose connection, turns out one of the connections to the program switch was dislodged. But now the motor has issues. It buzzes and will not go. Oh, it will go if you turn the impeller before starting it but then you have a water swirler and not a dishwasher. When the motor is running, the sounds it makes make my skin crawl. I must have been in denial about the condition of the motor, it is more far gone than I thought. By the way, the shaft turns freely, so I don't think it is binding. It just will not go "on its own initiative".

I just need some time to think about what to do next. If anyone wants parts the offer still stands. I probably can keep him in the garage until it is really cold then I will be pressured to get it out. I can get the door off, I know the timer is rare but I cannot unscrew it from the door. I will probably save the pump parts as well. Steve, I will also take the blower too.

If I go ahead with a new (emerson?) motor would it have the same screw holes for the pump as the original? I don't know how I am going to get the new seal/impeller off - maybe a "pulley puller"? Spending 200 for a motor is getting into new dishwasher territory.

I am trying not to feel too bad. Doctors don't save every life, I guess I don't have to either.

Give me a week I will let you know if I part him out.
 
Fret not..It aint gone yet!

Bob, you need part number 4171907 which lists for 145.21 thru sears.com and therefore should be available elsewhere as well. That is a pretty decent price for a complete motor with seal and gaskets.
It seems strange that your motor isn't turning faster that you say it ism but chalk it up to experience. Replace the motor and you can probably get at least another 20 years out of the machine.

And to answer one of your questions, yes all the holes will line up perfectly on the new motor.

Here is the link to sears, but you can try other parts houses and even ebay!

 
Thanks, Steve, I'll look into it, I appreciate it. I just need a week to sulk and figure out what to do. I wonder if I want to put that much of my money into it. Looks like someone else in the area is looking for a classic KA too. Do you think I should save Kaddi or should I part him out? Anyone want the parts?

This all has been a great learning experience but one thing I think I have learned is that some appliances may be just too far gone if people really used them heavily. We collectors should stick to estate sales where the owners were little old ladies that did not use them much.
 
Sulk ?

If you get rid of that machine without having conquered it first, you will regret your decision and sulk even longer over its loss! I have tossed many machines and parts from them only to wish I had saved them, but sometimes space is at a premium and a wife hounding me to clean the garage is a powerful motivator!
I say keep it even as a spare machine or if you entertain alot, as a secondary unit to do the extra dishes while the daily driver is doing a load too.
As some guys here will attest,I have a spare unit in my garage that is hooked up and whether it is a Kenmore, Whilrpool or Kitchenaid, I always have spare capacity for extra pots and pans, dishes and such.
 
kd-16 leak out the door

working on this kdi-16 for my girlfriend's mother. water drips from the bottom corners of the door. First time I tested, it was the left side of the door on the first cycle and the right side on the second cycle. That seemed odd. I have replaced the tar-like goo along the spot-welds inside the door and at the corners with silicone, as it was hard in some places, very soft in others, and I felt water coming through the tar in the corners near the hinges before I took the front of the door off. The tar was pulling out and the leak slowed appreciably when I pushed it back in, but it was very soft, so I replaced it with silicone when I opened the door up. Seems to leak when the machine is filled and slinging water (not surprisingly). I'm wondering if it is filling too high and sloshing out? I'm going to take another look tomorrow or the next day. I have wondered if the door seal might have shrunk in length, so I extended that a bit with some silicone and magnets. I covered the door seal with duct tape to add a little thickness, but it didn't help. It has me puzzled. I was so sure it was the tar-stuff at the left and right sides that I didn't take the front off the door the last time I tested it, and there wasn't time after that test. It made it through a cycle with no leak, but offered a couple drops on the second and some teaspoons on the third. It appears that this machine does not have a float overfill shutoff device? The dryer mushroom in the back doesn't have a float in it, does it? How does this thing know how much water is in it? She is 80 (the mom) and getting frustrated with the leak and is talking about going to Sears. She has company coming for Christmas. I hate to see a machine like this go to the landfill. I tell her it is a great machine, if we can just find out how the water is getting into the door and out onto the floor. It seems to be landing on the rubber strip at the bottom and dripping out the corner. The whole strip gets wet. I don't have a book, so I don't know what's supposed to be there. Seems to me it ought to be made so that sloshed water would be redirected back inside the cabinet. I reworked the door springs a couple years ago when the ends broke off of them. Is there any sort of seal or flap that is supposed to keep water from sloshing up into the door? I am thinking of installing a silicone flap on the door with neodymium magnets just to break up the sloshing. (it's made for plugging the gap between stove and counter or between washer and dryer). It's a great machine. No chips, no rust. Not much paint on the timer panel, but enough to kinda figure out what it's supposed to be doing. I haven't watched it leak with the front of the door off, but if it is overfilling or oversloshing, there's nothing in the door that can stop the tsunami. I know some newer machines have some sort of diverter at the corners where the door meets the cabinet, but I haven't seen evidence that this machine had them. I don't see evidence that the detergent dispenser seal is leaking. Any ideas?
 

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