GE RightHeight Electric Dryer Repair Nightmare

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stricklybojack

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Joined
Feb 24, 2014
Messages
1,811
Location
South Hams Devon UK
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So again I tangle with a pair of GE RightHeight front loaders, this time the dryer is the problem.
If you recall in the past I fixed a washer of this ilk...while being transported in a move across the country (without strut braces reinstalled) the water hose that was stored inside for the journey became jammed between the basket and the tub. Also various struts were busted.
Anywho now I have a different set, red, bought on the cheap owing to the dryer not working.
Much to my chagrin the seller cleaverly kept the dryer under a tarp while I inspected the washer. He assured me the dryer “looked the same”. Long story short I paid him (my car fits one unit per load), came back for the dryer and noticed the (now uncovered) dryer control panel was a mess where someone had tried to remove it not knowing how. Always inspect the goods before paying, doh! 1.5 to 2 million dollar home too, in one of San Diego’s “nicest” areas lol.
It may just need a door switch replaced, but how to disassemble? The washer I know, this is different.
Any ideas?
I tried pushing the top backwards to no avail and there doesn’t seem to be any screws in the usual places. The previous attempts at entry have left the control panel, which is plastic, a little wavy, the aforementioned “mess”...I will need to try and smooth that out.

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Wow! Thx Henrik that will come in handy.
I did already figure it out by of of the below linked video.
Although a different model, mine also had a torx t-20 I hadn’t noticed hiding under the control knob.
Now on to why this thing lights up but doesn’t run.



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So...

First run of the mill advice would be to check the usal door related items. Does the drum light operate in a specific manner that seems odd (for example, if the light is off and the door is closed, if you pull it open, does it switch on or stay off)?
Does the start button flash with the door open or with the door closed?

The wirirng diagramm in the service manual suggest that the door light for incandescent lights is singlehandedy operated by switching life from a contact to the pcb to the door light.
And it appears motor power is switched via the door switch itself as well.

Next hunch would be to check the service cycle.

On such an advanced machine I would either hunch at the door switch or the PCB.

From what I can interpret into the circuit diagramm, the PCB should allow for pressings start and accepting the input with the door switch in closed posititon.
So if the motor or motor start switch is faulty you should still get a lit start button.

Otherwise it could be any of the relays in the motor circuit (this one has an additional relay or 2 even for reverse tumbeling), it could be the motor start switch or the motor itself.

Ohming out the motor isn't difficult and probably the easiest way to rule out a broken PCB/relay.
 

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