pinkpower4
Well-known member
@agiflow4
The Maytag mvwp575gw fills by alternating hot or cold. Unfortunately, I cannot just turn off the cold. It also has automatic temperature control. For the main cycles, this is a feature that adds hot water to maintain a minimum temperature for any setting other than tap cold. In other words, some hot may be added even if the temp is set to cold. However, it is also the feature that seems to limit a true hot setting for the Normal “eco” cycle too. If the incoming cold supply is above a certain temperature, the hot water valve won’t even kick on. This and maybe the software programming?
One of the cool things about this Maytag is how easy it is to access under the console. Remove two screws, and that’s it. In the beginning, the reviews I read said this washer had no true hot for any cycle. I tried relocating the thermistor so that it sensed air temperature instead of water temperature. I just used the knobs on the washer to fill with the desired amount of hot and then cold water. This worked for the Normal “eco” in the winter when the air temperature was cooler but not in the summer where the air temperature was warmer and above the threshold to activate the hot. I keep my AC around 80 along with ceiling fans, and I am sure the temp is probably a little warmer than that in the laundry room. The reviews were incorrect. This washer does have tap hot for the main cycles, so this setup was not always practical.
I sometimes will connect a Y to join the hot and cold and connect the combined line to the cold inlet valve. If you do not connect a hose to the hot, you can just set the wash temp to tap cold and control the temp using the faucets at the washer outlet box. You can run a hot line to the hot inlet valve too (and this is necessary if you want to run the clean cycle which calls for hot water from the hot inlet valve—see instructions in the tech sheet). Because there is a crossover from the joined line, there is no true hot unless you turn off the cold valve. However it allows one to use the knobs on the washer for most loads. Warm will be a little warmer, and rinses are warm as well. If I want a true hot, I need to remember to turn the cold valve off for the wash portion of the cycle.
Most of the time I wash in warm, but I really don’t need to rinse in warm. Since I am doing a lot more half loads now, I may go back to this setup. A warm spray rinse won’t use that much extra energy.
My setup now is the washer is installed per instructions with ATC enabled. I added a solid brass splitter with NO levers to the washer outlet hot. One hose runs to the back of the washer, and the other has a washing machine hose attached. I use a metal cap with a rubber seal to seal the extra hose when not in use. I start the Normal cycle and then pause it. I used waterproof tape to mark where the Normal cycle fill is. I turn off the hot water, uncap the extra hose, turn the hot water back on, fill tub, turn hot water back off, cap hose, turn hot water back on, and unpause washer. Depending on the level of water, it will either start washing or add some more cold. BTW, you can also top off a deep fill this way (but I have found the water to be adequate for the amount of clothes I consider a full load). I also use the extra hose to add hot water to my portable washer, which only has a cold line running to it and top it off since a full load only is half a tub of water.
This is why I say the regulations just weren’t thought out. How does less water save energy by restricting the tub fill or water temp when one has to do more loads because there is less water and add more chemicals because of the cooler temps?
One can also just restrict the cold water by partially closing the cold water valve using the washer outlet box faucet. The tub takes longer to fill, but you will get a very warm wash. I don’t know if this could damage the valves somehow???
With any setup, one needs to remember to turn the cold back on or unrestrict it. All rinses are cold.
When this washer is no longer fixable, I am watching to see what happens with thomasortegas’ washer machine line, The Laundry Alternative. I knew Eddie had the Roper I was referring to, so I will be watching for his reviews to see if this washer continues to perform well and reliably. Sounds like that model and similar are also hidden gems in the sea of true products that do not work well.
If you got tired reading this just know I am tired of jumping through hoops for clean laundry. I wish the people that passed these laws actually did their own laundry or took out their earplugs to hear what their significant other or housekeeper has to say. LOL.
The Maytag mvwp575gw fills by alternating hot or cold. Unfortunately, I cannot just turn off the cold. It also has automatic temperature control. For the main cycles, this is a feature that adds hot water to maintain a minimum temperature for any setting other than tap cold. In other words, some hot may be added even if the temp is set to cold. However, it is also the feature that seems to limit a true hot setting for the Normal “eco” cycle too. If the incoming cold supply is above a certain temperature, the hot water valve won’t even kick on. This and maybe the software programming?
One of the cool things about this Maytag is how easy it is to access under the console. Remove two screws, and that’s it. In the beginning, the reviews I read said this washer had no true hot for any cycle. I tried relocating the thermistor so that it sensed air temperature instead of water temperature. I just used the knobs on the washer to fill with the desired amount of hot and then cold water. This worked for the Normal “eco” in the winter when the air temperature was cooler but not in the summer where the air temperature was warmer and above the threshold to activate the hot. I keep my AC around 80 along with ceiling fans, and I am sure the temp is probably a little warmer than that in the laundry room. The reviews were incorrect. This washer does have tap hot for the main cycles, so this setup was not always practical.
I sometimes will connect a Y to join the hot and cold and connect the combined line to the cold inlet valve. If you do not connect a hose to the hot, you can just set the wash temp to tap cold and control the temp using the faucets at the washer outlet box. You can run a hot line to the hot inlet valve too (and this is necessary if you want to run the clean cycle which calls for hot water from the hot inlet valve—see instructions in the tech sheet). Because there is a crossover from the joined line, there is no true hot unless you turn off the cold valve. However it allows one to use the knobs on the washer for most loads. Warm will be a little warmer, and rinses are warm as well. If I want a true hot, I need to remember to turn the cold valve off for the wash portion of the cycle.
Most of the time I wash in warm, but I really don’t need to rinse in warm. Since I am doing a lot more half loads now, I may go back to this setup. A warm spray rinse won’t use that much extra energy.
My setup now is the washer is installed per instructions with ATC enabled. I added a solid brass splitter with NO levers to the washer outlet hot. One hose runs to the back of the washer, and the other has a washing machine hose attached. I use a metal cap with a rubber seal to seal the extra hose when not in use. I start the Normal cycle and then pause it. I used waterproof tape to mark where the Normal cycle fill is. I turn off the hot water, uncap the extra hose, turn the hot water back on, fill tub, turn hot water back off, cap hose, turn hot water back on, and unpause washer. Depending on the level of water, it will either start washing or add some more cold. BTW, you can also top off a deep fill this way (but I have found the water to be adequate for the amount of clothes I consider a full load). I also use the extra hose to add hot water to my portable washer, which only has a cold line running to it and top it off since a full load only is half a tub of water.
This is why I say the regulations just weren’t thought out. How does less water save energy by restricting the tub fill or water temp when one has to do more loads because there is less water and add more chemicals because of the cooler temps?
One can also just restrict the cold water by partially closing the cold water valve using the washer outlet box faucet. The tub takes longer to fill, but you will get a very warm wash. I don’t know if this could damage the valves somehow???
With any setup, one needs to remember to turn the cold back on or unrestrict it. All rinses are cold.
When this washer is no longer fixable, I am watching to see what happens with thomasortegas’ washer machine line, The Laundry Alternative. I knew Eddie had the Roper I was referring to, so I will be watching for his reviews to see if this washer continues to perform well and reliably. Sounds like that model and similar are also hidden gems in the sea of true products that do not work well.
If you got tired reading this just know I am tired of jumping through hoops for clean laundry. I wish the people that passed these laws actually did their own laundry or took out their earplugs to hear what their significant other or housekeeper has to say. LOL.
