MOVING A MAYTAG E2L

[geoffdelp]

Larry ... let them finish oozing Bosco and then clean them with parts cleaner. No need to disassemble; you don't have any broken pinion gears. You would have to drive the gears off first and then pull the rods. But like I said, no need to do that because they aren't broken.

I wouldn't put water in these parts ... only parts cleaner. Do the best you can to clean them up. Believe it or not, the only part your going to pack with grease is the wringer post! Check the service manual for quantity and weight; it should tell you. They used "like" an axel grease but greasier (if that's possible). It was sold in 1 lb. containers. The wringer head takes a whole pound while the wringer post takes maybe a half a pound???

The right angle drive gets no packing of lubrication. It gets lubricated through usage. The pinion gear on the right angle drive lines up with the pinion gear in the wringer post.

 

[geoffdelp]

Mickey ... how could I forget the pumping!! That's your favorite part of these machines; they sure are powerful. My 1963 pink E2LP had the pump abused; there was gunk in it when I got it and wouldn't work. I took it apart and had to replace the impeller with an extra one I had but the wheel is lop-sided a bit. If I push the handle all the way on, it has such force that the gooseneck comes right up out of the tub; unbelievable. It took a few times of water all over the floor before I figured out not to push it all the way on. I need to put a new wheel on it and then it should straighten out.

Larry probably has everything cleaned up and is now waiting for gaskets and a tub.

This has been a fun thread!!

 

[e2l-arry]

Today I cleaned

and prepped for painting the inside of the tub (do I see where the pump "on off" lever went?) It took a bit of elbow grease to remove all that transmission grease. Tomorrow night I paint the inside of the tub.

 

[e2l-arry]

And here's

the right angle drive. All cleaned and sanded and ready for priming.There was quite a bit of "Bosco residue" to flush out but it's all out now. There's not much to it. A housing and 1 shaft that connects the power unit to the wringer shaft. After I paint this and the inside of the tub,the vertical shaft is next. Phil says he doesn't sell the grease used to pack it out but said to just get synthetic grease at the Auto Parts store. Simple enough!

 

[geoffdelp]

Larry ... BEAUTIFUL! You DO see where the pump handle went; HOORAY!! Pump mystery solved. I can't believe they wouldn't have fixed that?? Just yanked it off and put on a regular hose; go figure. You'll like having a pump; they are nice and Maytag always said it would empty the tub in 2 minutes or less; it's true.

Are you going to use gloss or flat? I don't think Maytag lacquered the interior.

Superb detailing job. This is great to watch someone else get into this. Great!!

 

[geoffdelp]

Rustoleum (or something like it) on that right angle drive; you'll like the results.

Let us know what kind of grease you get for packing that wringer post.

 

[stan]

synthetic grease?

Dose Phil mean the wheel bearing grease? And did he say how much to put in?

The weep hole looks bigger than I expected. Have never really got a good look at mine (just felt it)

Larry what dose that right angle drive look like from the other end, looking inside?
(the end that bolts to the P.U)

We talked about the letters on the front, now that the tub is out how did Maytag fasten them (speed nut ?) Or do they just fit in tight (small hole) push in pull out?

Don't you boys think that when Larryss done, that his pics need to go into "restorations"
Have email Robert to ask how one qualifies, but haven't heard back yet.
Anyone know?

 

[e2l-arry]

I actually looked on-line

for "synthetic" grease and most of what I read had it as "superior" to the old petroleum based grease. I saw a 3 lb. container of "Tri-Flow Synthetic grease at Amazon for $11.95 so I went ahead and ordered one.

I have some left over Rust-Oleum oil based paint I used on the skirt, Stan't formulation, that I'll use on the inside. The original does look more flat but, it's the INSIDE after all so might as well use it instead of buying more white paint. For the horizontal shaft I'll use some of the Rust-Oleum White Epoxy Appliance spray paint I have leftover as well. Also on the PU before I put it back in. I used it on the wringer and it works fine. Plus again, this is under the unit so it won't matter to anyone but me. I've seen some units for sale, mostly on EBay and the washers look new. Until they show a picture from the bottom! Then it's like "Wah happened" here?

Then you're right, I'll be waiting on my ordered stuff before I can do much else. I know my stuff from Phil shipped already but I haven't heard back from Dave on the tub yet. Last Friday he said he'd be looking for a box to ship it in and let me know the shipping cost ASAP, but I haven't heard anything back so that makes me a little nervous. I don't want to come across as a pest but I'm thinking if I don't hear anything by tomorrow I'll send a friendly email and try to see what up with that. Then of course, more painting and priming tomorrow after work. More pictures too!

 

[e2l-arry]

Stan,

I'll send a picture tomorrow but the side that bolts to the P.U. is just the other end of the shaft I have pulled out. It doesn't have a gear but like a peg that goes through it that connects to and is turned by the worm wheel of the transmission.

The M A Y T A G letters appear to be rivets. They either are pushed through small holes and flattened to hold them in place or are just very tightly forced into place. No nuts holding them in place. I'm not going to mess with those. No need to really.

 

[stan]

You know

when you really start looking at the parts and pieces, insides, and outs, these machine were built like brick shit houses! They meant for them to do a haul, didn't they! Amazing.

 

[wringer]

Larry,

Continued amazement here at your work !!!! You are good and I am glad you have had Geoff and Phil to help you out. You have done to her exactly what the Amish did to my girls before I bought them. They totally tore them down and repainted everything. New grease/oil also. You can be very proud !!!! You have me convinced you can tackle anything. Best!!

Jim

 

[e2l-arry]

Thanks Jim!

My only concern now is I've had no response from Dave about the replacement tub. Last Friday he said all he needed was a box and then he'd let me know the shipping costs ASAP. That was last Friday. I sent an email today but got no reply. Without a new tub I'm hosed. I may need you to ask your Amish friends if they have a salvage E2L that still has a usable tub as a back up plan. One thing this project has taught me, and that's ALWAYS have a back up plan!

Stan, here's a view of the drive from the side that bolts to the P.U. You can see how the connect and the P.U. drives the shaft. Simple huh?

Larry

 

[stan]

Well I'll be

can't get much better than that!! was there a seal between those two connections as well?

Did you find out how much grease to put in?

 

[e2l-arry]

You don't put any grease in this one.

There's a gasket that I have for this connection. I have all the gaskets I'll need as of today. I read that you do add 3 oz. of the 90 wt. oil at the bottom of the vertical shaft where this gear meets the bottom of the wringer gear. I guess that keeps everything in the horizontal shaft lubricated. The I read that you pack the wringer post with 1/2 lb. of grease. That's tricky because that would be from scratch. Brand new or totally empty so not sure what I should put in that one. If anything? Dan said 12 oz. of the 90 wt. in the transmission.

So I got my stuff from Phil today. Including the pump but I don't know how I'll use it. When you order a pump, you get a PUMP. But none of the hardware to connect it, the on off lever, and the pump hinge bracket. I've been looking on line and Ebay but can't find any and they're not included on Phil's part list so right now I have a $45 pump that is absolutely useless. At least I have the correct fly wheel for it because I wouldn't know where to get one of those either. Maybe I'll ask Dave if any salvage machines have the pump linkage. But he's gone missing right now too.

 

[wringer]

No

problem Larry. Just let me know if you are in need of a tub and I will call them. They have a phone OUTSIDE but can't have it inside LOL. So, I call and leave a message and they call me back !!!!!! They may or may not have one. Do you have a manufacture date for your girl? That would tell which tub it had in it, the cast or a spun one. Let me know !

Jim

 

[wringer]

Larry,

I have been meaning to write this but keep forgetting. When the Amish restore an E with the letters across the front they no longer remove them because of damage it causes to the skirt and letters. He just paints them and then takes a razor blade and removes the paint from the top side of the letters. The sides are white naturally but it really doesn't show if you don't know what you are looking for. He used to try to remove them but ruined to many and those skirts are not as plentiful as the logo/label ones are. Just a thought !

Jim

 

[e2l-arry]

June 1964

So it's the lighter spun Aluminum used in the later models. Like you said earlier, when I got it out it's not heavy, just large. If I'm not mistaken, the heavy cast tubs were the ones used earlier models like on Brad's Model 30. Thanks for checking for me. It'll be 6 days tomorrow since I've heard anything and that's making me nervous.

 

[e2l-arry]

I painted around the letters

A trick I learned. I cover the letters with Vaseline. Then carefully paint around them. Then if I get any paint on the letters it wipes off with the Vaseline. Works Great!

 

[wringer]

What a

trick !!!! I will have to tell the Amish about this if it is OK with you. I will call them today about the tub. Will let you know when I hear from them.

Jim

 

[e2l-arry]

Sure!

Always happy to share a tip. If they spray, they can completely spray over the lettering after the Vaseline coating. Then just wipe off the lettering when the paint is dry. Easy as pie! I heard back from Dave and it looks like the tub with him is still a go. I'd be curious to see if the Amish could supply a replacement anyway. I won't be completely at ease until it's delivered, undamaged! Dave is also going to supply me with the rest of the hardware to complete the pump installation. Have other people used him? I've had very good luck with him being to supply vintage parts for my E2L soon to add the P.

Thanks Jim