e2l-arry
Well-known member
OK
Got the horizontal drive painted. And got the lower part of the vertical 100% Bosco Free!
Got the horizontal drive painted. And got the lower part of the vertical 100% Bosco Free!
MOVING A MAYTAG E2L
- Thread starter e2l-arry
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e2l-arry
Well-known member
PAINTED THE INSIDE
Of the skirt last night. Could use a second coat maybe but guess what? AIN'T gonna happen! It's the INSIDE for cryin' out load! Where over 1/2 is covered with the tub. Still as good or better that the day it came off the line.
Of the skirt last night. Could use a second coat maybe but guess what? AIN'T gonna happen! It's the INSIDE for cryin' out load! Where over 1/2 is covered with the tub. Still as good or better that the day it came off the line.
e2l-arry
Well-known member
Here's a close up
of the vertical wringer shaft. It was pretty thick with the Bosco. I used engine cleaner and de-greaser from Auto Zone. Sprayed some in and let it soak for a bit. Then, I put in some fresh and got the nook and crannies with a toothbrush. Here's a hint. If you use your toothbrush be sure you open a fresh one for you to use in the morning. Otherwise you'll be wondering, "What IS that weird taste in my mouth?" All day!
of the vertical wringer shaft. It was pretty thick with the Bosco. I used engine cleaner and de-greaser from Auto Zone. Sprayed some in and let it soak for a bit. Then, I put in some fresh and got the nook and crannies with a toothbrush. Here's a hint. If you use your toothbrush be sure you open a fresh one for you to use in the morning. Otherwise you'll be wondering, "What IS that weird taste in my mouth?" All day!
Yah
thats what I"m talking about!
She's going to be a pretty girl! again
This thread is going to be so helpful to anyone who decides to do a overhall on a Maytag conventional !
thats what I"m talking about!
She's going to be a pretty girl! again
This thread is going to be so helpful to anyone who decides to do a overhall on a Maytag conventional !
e2l-arry
Well-known member
AND!
I think this is where I'm supposed to add 3 oz of the 90 wt. before I close it up. And it stays there and doesn't intermix with the thicker grease of the upstairs neighbor. And to me that makes sense because that area, when I opened it up, had the same power unit Bosco as opposed to a thicker grease. So, unless Geoff or someone else tells me otherwise, that's the plan.
I think this is where I'm supposed to add 3 oz of the 90 wt. before I close it up. And it stays there and doesn't intermix with the thicker grease of the upstairs neighbor. And to me that makes sense because that area, when I opened it up, had the same power unit Bosco as opposed to a thicker grease. So, unless Geoff or someone else tells me otherwise, that's the plan.
geoffdelp
Well-known member
Hi Larry ... B-E-A-U-T-I-F-U-L!! Nicely done. That wringer post looks brand new. The right angle drive looks brand new, too! You're right; don't think you have to make the inside of the machine look like the outside ... Maytag didn't.
Maytag really did use a thicker grease to pack that wringer post. It was part number 056078 - Wringer Head Lube. I just wonder if your local Maytag dealer "might" have a jar left. It came in a plastic jar; not a bottle; that's how thick it was ... you spooned it out of the jar. The reason why you had Bosco in the wringer post was because the wringer head lube broke down over time and probably was exposed to moisture.
When I put the wringer head lube in the wringer post, I do it first and then I put the gasket on after cleaning the area where the gasket goes with lacquer thinner or parts cleaner to make it absolutely grease free. Then I attach the right angle drive and secure the bolts and then put the post and right angle drive back on the machine and secure to skirt but leave the bolts a little loose where it secures to the skirt. That will help you manipulate it while installing the power unit. The right angle drive will maneuver its way through the hole for the post. Having the wringer post and right angle drive on the machine before you place the power unit back on is easier. The power unit will have to be matched with the right angle drive before you secure it.
Also, before you put the right angle drive back on, put some lubrication on the shaft; it will give it some protection.
Those really are amazing machines and were so well AMERICAN built!!
You're doing a fantastic job and THANK YOU SO MUCH for documenting all of this with photos. I've always wanted to do that but haven't had the chance.
Maytag really did use a thicker grease to pack that wringer post. It was part number 056078 - Wringer Head Lube. I just wonder if your local Maytag dealer "might" have a jar left. It came in a plastic jar; not a bottle; that's how thick it was ... you spooned it out of the jar. The reason why you had Bosco in the wringer post was because the wringer head lube broke down over time and probably was exposed to moisture.
When I put the wringer head lube in the wringer post, I do it first and then I put the gasket on after cleaning the area where the gasket goes with lacquer thinner or parts cleaner to make it absolutely grease free. Then I attach the right angle drive and secure the bolts and then put the post and right angle drive back on the machine and secure to skirt but leave the bolts a little loose where it secures to the skirt. That will help you manipulate it while installing the power unit. The right angle drive will maneuver its way through the hole for the post. Having the wringer post and right angle drive on the machine before you place the power unit back on is easier. The power unit will have to be matched with the right angle drive before you secure it.
Also, before you put the right angle drive back on, put some lubrication on the shaft; it will give it some protection.
Those really are amazing machines and were so well AMERICAN built!!
You're doing a fantastic job and THANK YOU SO MUCH for documenting all of this with photos. I've always wanted to do that but haven't had the chance.
What
a pleasurable thread to read with my morning coffee Larry. I agree with Geoff about the job you have done and are doing. You will be soooooooooo proud when she purrs as you use her. Glad you got the tub situation all straightenend out. Thanks from me also for doing such a great job of keeping us up on your progress with before and after pics. This thread should never go away. Looking forward to run day as I know you are too !!
Jim
a pleasurable thread to read with my morning coffee Larry. I agree with Geoff about the job you have done and are doing. You will be soooooooooo proud when she purrs as you use her. Glad you got the tub situation all straightenend out. Thanks from me also for doing such a great job of keeping us up on your progress with before and after pics. This thread should never go away. Looking forward to run day as I know you are too !!
Jim
e2l-arry
Well-known member
Here's my picture for the day,
All my refurbished parts resting comfortably.
I received my Amazon shipments today. One good, one not so good. The first was the transmission fluid. It says right on the container HEAVY DUTY TRANSMISSION LUBRICANT. For E J N Transmissions use 12 FL. OZ. The container has 32 FL. OZ. so a lifetime supply!
The synthetic grease is another story. The Amazon description clearly says 3 pounds. What I got was 3 ounces! They even crossed out "pounds" on the packing list and wrote in "ounces" the Oafs! Well! I got on line with the good folks at Amazon and that one's going back. So off to the Auto Parts store tomorrow to scope out some grease!
I have a gasket question. When installing new gaskets, do you just use the new gaskets of any additional sealant like "FORM A GASKET"? I thought I saw one on line thing where they said to use gasket cement? I've never done that on cars but you never know. How do the washer pros do it?
All my refurbished parts resting comfortably.
I received my Amazon shipments today. One good, one not so good. The first was the transmission fluid. It says right on the container HEAVY DUTY TRANSMISSION LUBRICANT. For E J N Transmissions use 12 FL. OZ. The container has 32 FL. OZ. so a lifetime supply!
The synthetic grease is another story. The Amazon description clearly says 3 pounds. What I got was 3 ounces! They even crossed out "pounds" on the packing list and wrote in "ounces" the Oafs! Well! I got on line with the good folks at Amazon and that one's going back. So off to the Auto Parts store tomorrow to scope out some grease!
I have a gasket question. When installing new gaskets, do you just use the new gaskets of any additional sealant like "FORM A GASKET"? I thought I saw one on line thing where they said to use gasket cement? I've never done that on cars but you never know. How do the washer pros do it?
Good question!
Lets see what Geoff says, or maybe Phil.
Speaking of a gasket, reminds me ... the tub nuts... did you order new, or are you reusing the gulmite bolts, with new rubber washers?
Lets see what Geoff says, or maybe Phil.
Speaking of a gasket, reminds me ... the tub nuts... did you order new, or are you reusing the gulmite bolts, with new rubber washers?
geoffdelp
Well-known member
Nice job! Well ... I use gasket cement to secure the gasket to the part. It's like rubber cement.
Also, what is that gasket on the top of the center plate, Larry? Where did you get that one? Did you get the black rubber gasket that goes in the groove of the center plate? That should be the only gasket you use on the center plate and it doesn't get glued in; it just lays in the groove.
Also, what is that gasket on the top of the center plate, Larry? Where did you get that one? Did you get the black rubber gasket that goes in the groove of the center plate? That should be the only gasket you use on the center plate and it doesn't get glued in; it just lays in the groove.
e2l-arry
Well-known member
OH! I almost forgot!
Checking out all my gaskets today. The big cork one. There was NO evidence of any cork gasket or even remnants of one when I removed that tub last week. There WAS however, evidence of a LOT of cork gasket material under the agitator when I got that off on day 2. More evidence of just how messed up this washer was when I got it.
On the upside, you couldn't ASK for a better machine to learn on.
Checking out all my gaskets today. The big cork one. There was NO evidence of any cork gasket or even remnants of one when I removed that tub last week. There WAS however, evidence of a LOT of cork gasket material under the agitator when I got that off on day 2. More evidence of just how messed up this washer was when I got it.
On the upside, you couldn't ASK for a better machine to learn on.
e2l-arry
Well-known member
I thought I needed the cork one too
But then wondered. On the parts list they have "old" and "new" Is "old" the cork and the "new" the rubber seal? I bought both! If I only need 1, I'll only use 1. That would explain why I didn't find evidence of one. It wouldn't explain the cork I found under the muck under the agitator. Like pins, razor blades, bits of cork???
But then wondered. On the parts list they have "old" and "new" Is "old" the cork and the "new" the rubber seal? I bought both! If I only need 1, I'll only use 1. That would explain why I didn't find evidence of one. It wouldn't explain the cork I found under the muck under the agitator. Like pins, razor blades, bits of cork???
When
I was in your position I ask the Amish about the seals. They told me that the old cast tubs took the cork and the new spun tubs took the o ring type. I have no idea why there would have been a cork one used anywhere. But, like Geoff says, who knows what someone did to this poor beauty. I don't think you need a cork gasket at all but I am not certain. Good Luck !!!
Jim
I was in your position I ask the Amish about the seals. They told me that the old cast tubs took the cork and the new spun tubs took the o ring type. I have no idea why there would have been a cork one used anywhere. But, like Geoff says, who knows what someone did to this poor beauty. I don't think you need a cork gasket at all but I am not certain. Good Luck !!!
Jim
e2l-arry
Well-known member
Never fear!
I do have the big O-ring gasket too. I can see how the cork one would work though.
Stan! The bolts, I did order a new set from Phil. They appear to be a standard size 1/2" bolt you'd be able to get at any Hardware Store. What's different on these though is what appears to be the washer. They seem to be attached to the bolt. I got "the set of 6", 2 long and 4 short, that fasten the tub but that doesn't include the 2 used in the center of the plate. So for those I may look at ACE and see if they have any that look like these. Or, pick out the best 2 washers from the gulmite set and re-use then. Better yet, re-use them on part of the tub not connected to the power unit and use 2 of my new one for those. That way if I have a faulty seal it's just a leak. Where as if one of the washers over the Power Unit leak I get water in the transmission.
Been there!, Done that!
I do have the big O-ring gasket too. I can see how the cork one would work though.
Stan! The bolts, I did order a new set from Phil. They appear to be a standard size 1/2" bolt you'd be able to get at any Hardware Store. What's different on these though is what appears to be the washer. They seem to be attached to the bolt. I got "the set of 6", 2 long and 4 short, that fasten the tub but that doesn't include the 2 used in the center of the plate. So for those I may look at ACE and see if they have any that look like these. Or, pick out the best 2 washers from the gulmite set and re-use then. Better yet, re-use them on part of the tub not connected to the power unit and use 2 of my new one for those. That way if I have a faulty seal it's just a leak. Where as if one of the washers over the Power Unit leak I get water in the transmission.
Been there!, Done that!
Smart move
Larry. we don't want any leaks anywhere, anytime. LOL
We'l being waiting to see what happens next when you get the tub!
Larry. we don't want any leaks anywhere, anytime. LOL
We'l being waiting to see what happens next when you get the tub!
geoffdelp
Well-known member
Larry ... Stan is correct; the cork gasket on the center plate was used on the cast aluminum tubs AND on the previous models ... the A, 30, etc. When Maytag created the spun aluminum tub they created the "O" ring type gasket; don't use both ... you won't get the right fit. Your machine will take the "O" ring type gasket.
e2l-arry
Well-known member
O ring
it is. I guess I'll just hang on to the cork one in case anyone ever needs one. Hopefully my new tub will ship the week. There's not much else I can do at this point until it shows up. I did do some paint touch up and buffing with the Fine Cut this weekend. Everything looks real nice! Just waiting to all go back together.
So Geoff, when you use the gasket cement, do you just use it it spots to tack the gasket on or do you cover the entire gasket with it? If covered do you cover 1 side or both? I bought some today at Ace. Not sure it's the right stuff so it'll depend on how it's used.
it is. I guess I'll just hang on to the cork one in case anyone ever needs one. Hopefully my new tub will ship the week. There's not much else I can do at this point until it shows up. I did do some paint touch up and buffing with the Fine Cut this weekend. Everything looks real nice! Just waiting to all go back together.
So Geoff, when you use the gasket cement, do you just use it it spots to tack the gasket on or do you cover the entire gasket with it? If covered do you cover 1 side or both? I bought some today at Ace. Not sure it's the right stuff so it'll depend on how it's used.
e2l-arry
Well-known member
DIS-ASSEMBLED
E2LP - I wanted 1 picture before I start re-assembling the washer. The replacement tub and pump hardware will ship tomorrow. The tub is the picture is the old one, just a prop. There was a time a few weeks ago I even had the wringer cap completely taken apart. But I wasn't going to do that again just to get a picture! The only thing left is to sand, clean and paint the power unit. But I'm waiting for my EBay $35.00 spare to arrive first. Then I'll evaluate them against each other and decide which one I should use. The winner gets a paint job! I even have all the old hardware on top of the speaker. I used to be notorious for loosing small parts like hardware so I was very careful this time.
E2LP - I wanted 1 picture before I start re-assembling the washer. The replacement tub and pump hardware will ship tomorrow. The tub is the picture is the old one, just a prop. There was a time a few weeks ago I even had the wringer cap completely taken apart. But I wasn't going to do that again just to get a picture! The only thing left is to sand, clean and paint the power unit. But I'm waiting for my EBay $35.00 spare to arrive first. Then I'll evaluate them against each other and decide which one I should use. The winner gets a paint job! I even have all the old hardware on top of the speaker. I used to be notorious for loosing small parts like hardware so I was very careful this time.
mickeyd
Well-known member
Looks like a Maytag Conventional parts manual~ Wonderful !!!
So when can we start sending you our E2L's for restoration?
Larry, you'll be so, so happy with the pump. Mr Haney says: " I guar unnn TEEEE"
So when can we start sending you our E2L's for restoration?
Larry, you'll be so, so happy with the pump. Mr Haney says: " I guar unnn TEEEE"
Larry,
Did you get the PU that I alerted you to on ebay or was there another one available there? Glad you got it at that price. Looks like a factory parts department with a shipment ready for production !!!!!
Looking good !!
Jim
Did you get the PU that I alerted you to on ebay or was there another one available there? Glad you got it at that price. Looks like a factory parts department with a shipment ready for production !!!!!
Looking good !!
Jim
e2l-arry
Well-known member
Yea Jim
I did go ahead and bid. I wouldn't go over the $35.00 but it didn't matter. I got it for 35. I want to check it out and if it's better than mine I'll swap them out. And if mine is in better shape, I have a spare either way. Mine did make some weird clunking sounds and other than 1 piece of loose metal I never found what the root cause was. It could have been that 1 piece but I don't know for sure. A little insurance after all my set backs sounded like a good idea.
I did go ahead and bid. I wouldn't go over the $35.00 but it didn't matter. I got it for 35. I want to check it out and if it's better than mine I'll swap them out. And if mine is in better shape, I have a spare either way. Mine did make some weird clunking sounds and other than 1 piece of loose metal I never found what the root cause was. It could have been that 1 piece but I don't know for sure. A little insurance after all my set backs sounded like a good idea.
Yep,
I agree on spares. Glad you got it at the right price also. It will be interesting to hear what shape it is in when you get it. You can really be proud and when you begin to use her and hear her hum you will really be proud.
Jim
I agree on spares. Glad you got it at the right price also. It will be interesting to hear what shape it is in when you get it. You can really be proud and when you begin to use her and hear her hum you will really be proud.
Jim
e2l-arry
Well-known member
Spares!
Jim! You're the spares champ. Not a few extra parts laying around, but a few extra machines in perfect order. Now that's what I call a spare! Did you notice the M A Y T A G letters on the front? On that section I used Vaseline over the letters then sprayed that part as it would be too hard to paint between with a brush or roller, then just wiped it off after the paint dried. Works every time.
Jim! You're the spares champ. Not a few extra parts laying around, but a few extra machines in perfect order. Now that's what I call a spare! Did you notice the M A Y T A G letters on the front? On that section I used Vaseline over the letters then sprayed that part as it would be too hard to paint between with a brush or roller, then just wiped it off after the paint dried. Works every time.
geoffdelp
Well-known member
Larry ... it sure looks like you are ready to GO! Looks wonderful; let her rip!!
Did you find the right lubrication for the wringer post?
Just put gasket cement on only side of the gasket; no need to do both. You want it to adhere well to one of the parts and still be able to move the part around. If you seal both sides; you won't be able to separate the parts without destroying the gasket.
Looks wonderful; let her rip!! Did you find the right lubrication for the wringer post?
Just put gasket cement on only side of the gasket; no need to do both. You want it to adhere well to one of the parts and still be able to move the part around. If you seal both sides; you won't be able to separate the parts without destroying the gasket.
e2l-arry
Well-known member
OK
The gasket cement on only 1 side makes sense. I should have thought of that myself! The wringer lubricant/grease I think I got. Phil just said synthetic grease. That stuff I got from Amazon was 3 ounces for $11.95. Then I saw a 1 lb. container of the same stuff at ACE yesterday for $10.00. Sometime ya win, sometime ya loose. So anyway, I think that's what I'm going to use. So Geoff, let me see if I got this right because I can't really make head nor tail out of the vertical drive. You say to pack about 4 oz. in the lower part of the vertical? That would be where the 2 gears, 1 from the vertical the other from the horizontal, meet? Easy enough. But do I pack anything in the rest of the vertical? I removed the insert for the wringer post at the top. But that wouldn't come completely out because of the shaft and the gear attached. It didn't look to me like I should pack any grease in there anyway as that appears to just hold the shaft in the proper orientation to line up with the wringer head. Lower down the opening narrows to an opening just the size of the shaft. So would I pack any grease around there or just grease up the shaft best I can and with the 4oz. packed in the bottom, everything's fine? The Service Manual just shows how it comes apart but doesn't really say to put how much grease where? It looks to me like that should do the trick. Maybe pack some around the top where the wringer head would push it downwards. I don't want too much that will be oozing out in a month though. I want this baby to be clean for a long time.
I did see an EBay ad today for a Maytag, I think it was a J2L today where the description said something like "Runs Good! A little grease leaking underneath but they ALL do that" And I'm thinking, well maybe they ALL used to, but, . . . . . . I'm looking at 1 that doesn't . . .anymore . . . if there's a God in heaven!
The gasket cement on only 1 side makes sense. I should have thought of that myself! The wringer lubricant/grease I think I got. Phil just said synthetic grease. That stuff I got from Amazon was 3 ounces for $11.95. Then I saw a 1 lb. container of the same stuff at ACE yesterday for $10.00. Sometime ya win, sometime ya loose. So anyway, I think that's what I'm going to use. So Geoff, let me see if I got this right because I can't really make head nor tail out of the vertical drive. You say to pack about 4 oz. in the lower part of the vertical? That would be where the 2 gears, 1 from the vertical the other from the horizontal, meet? Easy enough. But do I pack anything in the rest of the vertical? I removed the insert for the wringer post at the top. But that wouldn't come completely out because of the shaft and the gear attached. It didn't look to me like I should pack any grease in there anyway as that appears to just hold the shaft in the proper orientation to line up with the wringer head. Lower down the opening narrows to an opening just the size of the shaft. So would I pack any grease around there or just grease up the shaft best I can and with the 4oz. packed in the bottom, everything's fine? The Service Manual just shows how it comes apart but doesn't really say to put how much grease where? It looks to me like that should do the trick. Maybe pack some around the top where the wringer head would push it downwards. I don't want too much that will be oozing out in a month though. I want this baby to be clean for a long time.
I did see an EBay ad today for a Maytag, I think it was a J2L today where the description said something like "Runs Good! A little grease leaking underneath but they ALL do that" And I'm thinking, well maybe they ALL used to, but, . . . . . . I'm looking at 1 that doesn't . . .anymore . . . if there's a God in heaven!
Synth Grease
A problem I have had using high quality synthetic greases is that it doesn't stick very well to gears. I learned this early on when re-packing gear boxes in antique fans. It does work well in roller and sleeve type bearings, not so great in gears, especially those exposed to high heat (grease can sometimes turn into a liquid) or just plain exposed to the elements. My 2 Cents.
This is what I use to repack gears and have had great success in using it. Not sure if it's the best application for wringer washers (perhaps Geoff can chime in), but it's something to keep in mind.
http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?catid=14&iid=46&loc=show
A problem I have had using high quality synthetic greases is that it doesn't stick very well to gears. I learned this early on when re-packing gear boxes in antique fans. It does work well in roller and sleeve type bearings, not so great in gears, especially those exposed to high heat (grease can sometimes turn into a liquid) or just plain exposed to the elements. My 2 Cents.
This is what I use to repack gears and have had great success in using it. Not sure if it's the best application for wringer washers (perhaps Geoff can chime in), but it's something to keep in mind.
http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?catid=14&iid=46&loc=show
geoffdelp
Well-known member
Hi guys ... I'd be careful with the "sticky" grease; that has white Lithium in it. Lithium grease is fine to use with parts that could have contact to water (wringer roll bearing hangers, spring loaded tension reset, etc.) but can be too sticky when used in sealed gears. It's better to stick with a lubrication that is more "oily" in nature.
The wringer post (or vertical drive) gets the lubrication packed into the bottom; where you cleaned it out. It self lubricates up the shaft; no need to put lubrication down the shaft. Don't clean it out, either, Larry. Just put the insert back on.
The right angle drive (or horizontal drive) works the same way. It's fed through the power unit and only slightly. If it's pouring in there and pouring out the breather hole, you've got a problem ... you already know about that!!
As far as quantity goes, I was always taught a half jar (half of a pound) of the Maytag grease. We all know that 8 ounces is half a pound but that sure seems like a lot! Start with 4-6 ounces and don't overfill it. Use your best guess; the gears need to be fully lubricated at all times. You'll be able to tell.
You could also lubricate the bottom of the wringer head post that slides into the insert with the same grease as you do the wringer (vertical) drive. You should be doing that once a month. Some women used to put Crisco on there; what a sticky, smelly mess that was to fix those machines; GROSS. Don't use Crisco; save it for pie crusts!!
The wringer post (or vertical drive) gets the lubrication packed into the bottom; where you cleaned it out. It self lubricates up the shaft; no need to put lubrication down the shaft. Don't clean it out, either, Larry. Just put the insert back on.
The right angle drive (or horizontal drive) works the same way. It's fed through the power unit and only slightly. If it's pouring in there and pouring out the breather hole, you've got a problem ... you already know about that!!
As far as quantity goes, I was always taught a half jar (half of a pound) of the Maytag grease. We all know that 8 ounces is half a pound but that sure seems like a lot! Start with 4-6 ounces and don't overfill it. Use your best guess; the gears need to be fully lubricated at all times. You'll be able to tell.
You could also lubricate the bottom of the wringer head post that slides into the insert with the same grease as you do the wringer (vertical) drive. You should be doing that once a month. Some women used to put Crisco on there; what a sticky, smelly mess that was to fix those machines; GROSS. Don't use Crisco; save it for pie crusts!!
e2l-arry
Well-known member
It's really is simple,
to replace those dated 2 prong power cords with the 3 prong grounded ones. I did this a few weeks ago but wanted to post some pictures before I put it back in the machine. I though my cord was just fine but when I removed to cover on the motor it was a MESS. So for $6.95 at ACE Hardware I bought a new 6' black grounded cord. If your motor doesn't have a nut connection for the green ground wire, just screw it onto one of the cover screw connections. Then if your outlet is grounded, so is your motor/washer. It's just smart considering the age of some cords and the fact that you can't use these machines without coming in contact with water.
to replace those dated 2 prong power cords with the 3 prong grounded ones. I did this a few weeks ago but wanted to post some pictures before I put it back in the machine. I though my cord was just fine but when I removed to cover on the motor it was a MESS. So for $6.95 at ACE Hardware I bought a new 6' black grounded cord. If your motor doesn't have a nut connection for the green ground wire, just screw it onto one of the cover screw connections. Then if your outlet is grounded, so is your motor/washer. It's just smart considering the age of some cords and the fact that you can't use these machines without coming in contact with water.
e2l-arry
Well-known member
And after you replace
the cover, it's unnoticeable! I was surprised to see mine has a Westinghouse motor. I'd only heard about GE and Delco motors in these Maytags.
And now, back into the washer it goes!
the cover, it's unnoticeable! I was surprised to see mine has a Westinghouse motor. I'd only heard about GE and Delco motors in these Maytags.
And now, back into the washer it goes!
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