What a Quandry -Washer Dryer Set

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According to the tech sheet the test switch is a standard N.O. switch. You can wire one together for your diagnostic testing. Tech sheets also show and tell you which wires to check for voltage, etc with your multimeter. I'd say you're all set to do the testing!
 
 
N.O. is "normally open."  The switch is OFF (the contacts do not touch) in its normal, at-rest position and turns ON when depressed.

N.C. is the opposite, "normally closed," which is a switch that is ON in its normal position and turns OFF when depressed.
 
Thanks Glen, I appreciate the explanation. I'm trying to get to the washer to diagnosis it, but Karen has a bunch of things she wants me to do first.

I have decided we are going to keep this set and see if we can get another 17 years out of them. The set cost us $1800. new.
We'd like to get more of our money out of them. Since they still look like brand new, I am betting we will!
 
OK, I got around to diagnosing the problem. The diagnostic "hangs up" when it gets to the Knits/Gentle mode. I guess that means that I need a new controller board.
It's WP part AP2906124. Does anyone have one of these laying around?
 
board repairs

if you are used to basic electronics repair,could look over
the board for bad solder joints,test some of the components
(diodes,relays etc)to see if a quick repair job could be done.
 
 
Allen, there are two boards in the machine.  The microcomputer board sends low-voltage control signals to a separate transformer/relay motor board to run high and low speed, agitate and spin (motor direction).  The motor board has relays to switch 120v line current to the motor.  It could be the motor board that's bad, not the computer board.  Could also be the centrifugal start switch, or the low speed winding on the motor.

Both boards are quite expensive, so you need to make sure of what is bad.

The tech sheet outlines a specific troubleshooting path for High Motor fail, but nothing for Low Motor fail.  It's not clear (to me, anyway) what should be the low speed signal between the computer & motor board.

Regards to "hangs up when it gets to the Knits/Gentle mode," you're running the jumper-switch test?  Sequence of 1) cold fill; 2) warm fill; 3) hot fill; 4) agitate low; 5) agitate high; 6) drain; 7) spin low; 8) spin high; 9) all LEDs lit.  It gets stuck in that sequence at step 4?
 
 
Oh, wow.  SearsParts was down earlier, so I was checking a different source for prices.  Sears is considerably lower price on the two boards (although still not exactly "inexpensive").  The microcomputer board is listed as "reconditioned."

The part number you state above seems to be a particular vendor's internal number.  Per Sears (which lists the correct manufacturer part numbers), the microcomputer is 3407003, or 3407003R for reconditioned.  The transformer/relay board is 3407048, also substituted to 3407048R.

There are other sources to check, of course.
 
I have a friend who troubleshoots circuit boards down to the board level. I may have him look at these. But he's expensive.
Hmm, replacement of both boards would be about $450. He's got to be cheaper than that!
 
My buddy who does electronic work said he'd work on them and repair them if needed for $75.00. That's a deal. But he needs the schematics for them. Does WP have the schematics of these boards available.

He said he can replace transistors, diodes, resistors, IC's and CPU's as well as checking for continuity in the boards. Years ago he was a radar tech in the Navy, so he knows his electronics.
He currently has his own company that installs and repairs high end electronics.
 

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