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whirlcool

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As you know, we have a 93 Whirlpool TOL Electronic Washer & Dryer set.
Recently, I believe the washers transmission is going south on us. It won't operate at low speed at all. It just sits there. Normal agitation speed works, except for the last 6 minutes which is susposed to be slow agitation on Normal wash mode.

So I figured for about $300.00 I could put in a new transmission, pump, coupler and new internal hoses and be good for another 17 years or so. The machine is in excellent cosmetic condition.

Just for the heck of it we stopped by a local appliance store and looked at some washer/dryer sets. Of course the store was stocked to the rafters with LG. But the store also carried Maytag & Whirpool machines. We came across a Samsung WF330ANW washer. It appears to be very sturdy. It has that diamond texture drum. It also has the VRT system. But no steam or silvercare. It has all the cycles we would want. I asked the price, and the salesperson noted that it is $599.00, but I could get it for $569.00 with free delivery & setup. The same price for the dryer too. Hmmm, About $1200.00 for the set.

The question is should we repair our Whirlpool set and keep it or head off for the world of FL bliss? The only considerations I have is that my clothing must be well rinsed (or I itch like hell) and we do wash pet beds with dog hair on them. And we would be washing a queen sized comforter on occasion.

What do you all think we should do? We are deadlocked here on a decision.
 
WP

IT sounds like your motor isn't running on slow speed. If it's a 2-speed motor, a used one can be had for about 25 bucks and it's super-easy to replace. If the motor is fine and the control system isn't telling it to go to slow speed, than you have a tougher nut to crack.

My vote would be to fix the old set. It will outlast a new one.
Dave
 
fix it

i would fix the old one-one thing about DDs is they are super
easy to work on and new and used parts are very avalible
-will far outlast import junk.
Besides that's a cool set anyway.
 
I'd fix the DD and agree 100% with the others' diagnosis. Not the transmission or coupler, though I'd do as you said and replace the pump, hoses, and coupler while in there.
 
Most parts for DD machines are easy to find. Allen's model is electronic. Check the board as well. That part could be NLA by now.
 
Melvin:

The washer has two boards in it, the power supply board and the minicomputer board. The boards are available for about $200.00 each.
Someone mentioned to me that there may be an onboard diagnostic that would tell me what board is at fault. Has anyone ever heard of this?

Tomorrow I am going to take the control panel apart and reseat all the connectors on the boards to make sure they have a good connection. Somehow, I think that the control boards are going to be where the problem resides.

BTW, the model number is LA9800Tn1. With the n1 indicating the color, almond.
 
I was meaning the computer board, but does not hurt to test both. There should be a data sheet or schematic in the console area. Usually they have the key sequences on the data sheets to put it in diagnostic mode, as well as the error codes. We need some pictures of these boards.
 
relays on the board

the control board will have some relays on it to switch the
motor-the one for the low speed may have burnt contacts,bad
solder joint,etc.
 
DO IT ONCE, DO IT RIGHT, SPEND YOUR MONEY ON FIXING THE WHIRLPOOL. IF IT BREAKS AGAIN, IT CAN EASILY BE FIXED, THE SAME CANNOT BE SAID FOR THESE NEW PIECE OF !@#$ FRONT LOADERS THE DAM GOVT. IS JAMMING DOWN OUR THROATS. WHEN THE SPIDER BREAKS ON THAT SAMSUNG, AND THE MACHINE SMELLS LIKE MOLD, GUESS WHAT, YOU CAN'T FIX IT, AND THUS IT BECOMES GARBAGE, MORE FILL IN THE JUNKYARD, DOES ANYONE ELSE OUT THERE GET THIS, NOT YOU GUYS, BUT THE ELITIST WHO THINKS THAT SAVING WATER, AND PAYING THESE PRICES FOR JUNK EVERY COUPLE OF YEARS IS OK....SORRY FOR THE RANT, BUT FIX THE WHIRLPOOL, YOU'LL BE GLAD YOU DID.
MIKE
 
We have been happy with the Whirlpools performance. It really does get the clothes clean.

There are no dents or scratches on the set, the tub is like new so that's why I am considering overhauling it and probably getting another 17 years out of it.

It's not that much of a water hog, the manual states that it is a 29 gallon fill on the default normal mode. And being direct drive most parts will be available for at least the next 50 years.
 
Try something.

Try running it on a gentile cycle. Slow wash and slow spin. If it does that, then the motor is fine but the control system is acting up. If it does nothing, it could be the control or the motor.

Dave
 
fix the Whirlpools. They are so cool. Got to see pics too.

An easy way of testing the motor is to switch the wires that go to the slow and fast speed. I believe the slow speed is the orange wire, off the top of my head. Someone else would know more.
 
Is there somewhere to get the service manual for this washer?

I was amazed to find out that even the wash basket is still available for this machine. The one we have is in great shape. Since this washer/dryer set was always used indoors in an conditioned environment there is no rust anywhere on them.

If you want to see more of this set, click on the link. BTW, the control panels do not look that scratched up in person. The flash picks up everthing!

http://www.dual-reference.com/Wash/Whirlpool.htm
 
According to the tech sheet the test switch is a standard N.O. switch. You can wire one together for your diagnostic testing. Tech sheets also show and tell you which wires to check for voltage, etc with your multimeter. I'd say you're all set to do the testing!
 
The opposite of

a Yes switch?

(I don't have a clue, either, Allen.) However, I agree with the chorus of "fix it!"

Lawrence/Maytagbear
 
 
N.O. is "normally open."  The switch is OFF (the contacts do not touch) in its normal, at-rest position and turns ON when depressed.

N.C. is the opposite, "normally closed," which is a switch that is ON in its normal position and turns OFF when depressed.
 
Thanks Glen, I appreciate the explanation. I'm trying to get to the washer to diagnosis it, but Karen has a bunch of things she wants me to do first.

I have decided we are going to keep this set and see if we can get another 17 years out of them. The set cost us $1800. new.
We'd like to get more of our money out of them. Since they still look like brand new, I am betting we will!
 
OK, I got around to diagnosing the problem. The diagnostic "hangs up" when it gets to the Knits/Gentle mode. I guess that means that I need a new controller board.
It's WP part AP2906124. Does anyone have one of these laying around?
 
board repairs

if you are used to basic electronics repair,could look over
the board for bad solder joints,test some of the components
(diodes,relays etc)to see if a quick repair job could be done.
 
 
Allen, there are two boards in the machine.  The microcomputer board sends low-voltage control signals to a separate transformer/relay motor board to run high and low speed, agitate and spin (motor direction).  The motor board has relays to switch 120v line current to the motor.  It could be the motor board that's bad, not the computer board.  Could also be the centrifugal start switch, or the low speed winding on the motor.

Both boards are quite expensive, so you need to make sure of what is bad.

The tech sheet outlines a specific troubleshooting path for High Motor fail, but nothing for Low Motor fail.  It's not clear (to me, anyway) what should be the low speed signal between the computer & motor board.

Regards to "hangs up when it gets to the Knits/Gentle mode," you're running the jumper-switch test?  Sequence of 1) cold fill; 2) warm fill; 3) hot fill; 4) agitate low; 5) agitate high; 6) drain; 7) spin low; 8) spin high; 9) all LEDs lit.  It gets stuck in that sequence at step 4?
 
 
Oh, wow.  SearsParts was down earlier, so I was checking a different source for prices.  Sears is considerably lower price on the two boards (although still not exactly "inexpensive").  The microcomputer board is listed as "reconditioned."

The part number you state above seems to be a particular vendor's internal number.  Per Sears (which lists the correct manufacturer part numbers), the microcomputer is 3407003, or 3407003R for reconditioned.  The transformer/relay board is 3407048, also substituted to 3407048R.

There are other sources to check, of course.
 
I have a friend who troubleshoots circuit boards down to the board level. I may have him look at these. But he's expensive.
Hmm, replacement of both boards would be about $450. He's got to be cheaper than that!
 

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