The transmission bearings on our Maytag Centennial are noisy on the spin cycle. New transmission is $160 and then who knows how long before I'd need a splutch or other parts. The other downer about this machine, I've probably thrown away $300 worth of stained clothes, stained with white soap or mineral deposits. It mainly attacks black clothes with synthetic fibers, dress clothes. I use Charlies powder soap, vinegar rinse in the Downy ball, and I always mix 3/4 gallon of water with a scoop of Charlies before adding to the machine. Aside from the white stains, we've been happy with the machine and the process we have developed. I assume no one makes the old school neutral transmission top loader any longer. I've been led by searches to Speed Queen, but are the newest models not as good? What do you recommend for a top loader?
Newbie needs advice for a new top load washer.
- Thread starter dsell
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And yhy a top loader? Front loaders are much better than those modern top loaders that don't use water.
speedqueen
Well-known member
The new Maytag commercial
Here is a review by our own Eugene(Lorain Furniture).
Here is a review by our own Eugene(Lorain Furniture).
Well Thomas, that's the easiest question I've had for a while. The answer, my wife doesn't like the looks of the front loaders. The Centennial would have been 5 years old in June 2018 and it was only used by my wife and I with occasional company.
I suppose you must use Charlie's? I've heard very mixed reviews about it.
Hi and Welcome!
A few thoughts on your situation.
First, if a top loader (TL) is the only washer in question, then you're going to have three categories to chose from:
1) 2017 or earlier new Speed Queen (not the 2018 models, they were redesigned and don't work well).
2) Another member of the Whirlpool family - under the hood, they're basically all the same.
3) A well-serviced Whirlpool direct drive or Maytag from their good era.
As to the other problems, here's an interesting situation: Vinegar with some detergent residues as well as vinegar with some forms of hard water causes worse problems with deposits than citric acid.
A few thoughts on your situation.
First, if a top loader (TL) is the only washer in question, then you're going to have three categories to chose from:
1) 2017 or earlier new Speed Queen (not the 2018 models, they were redesigned and don't work well).
2) Another member of the Whirlpool family - under the hood, they're basically all the same.
3) A well-serviced Whirlpool direct drive or Maytag from their good era.
As to the other problems, here's an interesting situation: Vinegar with some detergent residues as well as vinegar with some forms of hard water causes worse problems with deposits than citric acid.
Logix, some years back my laundry started smelling like sewer, especially my blue jeans. I was using Tide liquid with some flavor of Bounce sheets in the dryer. No fabric softener in the washer. That's when I made the switch to Charlies, vinegar and on some items I use a Bounce scent free sheet in the dryer for the static reduction. We've used Charlies since 2011 and are very happy with the exception of the white stains on the black dress clothes. We have lots of white minerals in our water as well and have to use citric acid in our dishwasher.
Hi Panthera, I appreciate the summary. I'm not surprised with your response based on the research I've done. The Maytag video posted above uses the same tin can transmission design as all the other Whirlpool top loaders. Why pay $800 for a machine that will have the same bearing failure in 5 years as a $360 machine? I was disappointed to see the Speed Queeen changed design, I was seriously considering it. The Fisher Paykel washer is out of my pay scale. I bought a WTW4816FW2 Whirlpool last night for $360 with tax. It looks nearly identical to the Maytag MVWC360AW0 that I'm replacing, other than the Whirlpool has an agitator. The transmission would be $160 for the Maytag and just didn't make sense vs another $200 for a new machine. However, my back doesn't agree with that today! I'm going to take the tin can transmission apart on the Maytag and see if it's possible to replace the bearings for future reference when the Whirlpool has the same issue. I may keep my eyes peeled for an old direct drive Whirlpool to rebuild. Are you saying I could use citric acid in the wash? I use vinegar as a fabric softener. I've thought of using citric acid in the wash, but I don't know how much or what it would do to the clothes. Citric acid is a must with our dishwasher.
speedqueen
Well-known member
In that case, just look on CL or or your local used appliance shops for a Direct Drive, you can probably get one for cheaper than the new transmission. Where generally are you in Kansas? I could look on CL for you and bring up a variety of good DD models or perhaps an older helical drive Maytag.
speedqueen
Well-known member
Here are a few DDs in Wichita
https://wichita.craigslist.org/app/d/washer-and-dryer/6547477767.html
Newer, but bottom of the line.
https://wichita.craigslist.org/app/d/washer-and-dryer/6550868379.html
Could use a cleaning, but a TOL Kenmore model with all possible features.
https://wichita.craigslist.org/app/d/washer-and-dryer/6550868379.html
Older Kenmore
https://wichita.craigslist.org/app/d/washer/6583413636.html
Well featured and from a dealer w/ warranty
https://wichita.craigslist.org/ppd/d/washer-heavey-duty-large/6579662410.html
https://wichita.craigslist.org/app/d/washer-and-dryer/6547477767.html
Newer, but bottom of the line.
https://wichita.craigslist.org/app/d/washer-and-dryer/6550868379.html
Could use a cleaning, but a TOL Kenmore model with all possible features.
https://wichita.craigslist.org/app/d/washer-and-dryer/6550868379.html
Older Kenmore
https://wichita.craigslist.org/app/d/washer/6583413636.html
Well featured and from a dealer w/ warranty
https://wichita.craigslist.org/ppd/d/washer-heavey-duty-large/6579662410.html
speedqueen
Well-known member
Now from Salina
Older Whirlpool
https://salina.craigslist.org/app/d/whirlpool-washer/6574787685.html
I wish to add, with these prices versus new, even if it lasts only four years, you are still ahead versus paying full new price, $300+, and having the same happen. All of what I posted is for less than just the trans cost of a new VMW belt-drive Whirlpool.
Older Whirlpool
https://salina.craigslist.org/app/d/whirlpool-washer/6574787685.html
I wish to add, with these prices versus new, even if it lasts only four years, you are still ahead versus paying full new price, $300+, and having the same happen. All of what I posted is for less than just the trans cost of a new VMW belt-drive Whirlpool.
speedqueen
Well-known member
What was it doing when it went wrong?
twintubdexter
Well-known member
I'm ready for "The Home"...
<span style="font-size: 14pt; color: #008000;">Salina Kansas. That's where Kim Novak (as Judy) said she was from in the fine film "Vertigo". Has nothing to do with this topic. It's just something I remember...</span>
<span style="font-size: 14pt; color: #008000;">Salina Kansas. That's where Kim Novak (as Judy) said she was from in the fine film "Vertigo". Has nothing to do with this topic. It's just something I remember...</span>
dartman
Well-known member
The Kenmore 28102 I bought about 2014 has eaten the tub bearings so it's super noisy in spin mode now, other than that it still works fine. If your machine is a top loader based on the Whirlpool design like mine is you can buy a complete bearing set with the main shaft and bearing remove/install tool for around 120,that's what I did and I just don't feel like tearing it apart yet. If all you need is the bearing set they can be had dirt cheap. People are renting out the install tool cheap online too. You pay replacement price up front and if you return it intact within the specified time they refund everything but a small rental fee. You can rig something up to do it too so maybe you can fix that thing cheap enough to resale or have a back up.
Dartman, the tin can transmission contains the bearings on my Centennial.
Twintubdexter, I thought Dorothy, Toto, and Cousin Eddie from Vacation were the only ones that claimed Kansas.
Speedqueen, it's been 5 years but half the time the spin cycle didn't work. It was making a noise but I can't remember the details. I made a video of it running but I can't find it now. It was intermittent. I had changed the agitator dogs and seems like there was a tub adaptor that could go bad, it was good. Seems there was a clutch/brake under the tranny and it looked fine. I had narrowed it down to the tranny, so I opened it up and there wasn't anything obviously bad. One time it had done it's cycle and the tub was half full of water. Other times, the clothes would be soaking wet like it drained but never spun.
Twintubdexter, I thought Dorothy, Toto, and Cousin Eddie from Vacation were the only ones that claimed Kansas.
Speedqueen, it's been 5 years but half the time the spin cycle didn't work. It was making a noise but I can't remember the details. I made a video of it running but I can't find it now. It was intermittent. I had changed the agitator dogs and seems like there was a tub adaptor that could go bad, it was good. Seems there was a clutch/brake under the tranny and it looked fine. I had narrowed it down to the tranny, so I opened it up and there wasn't anything obviously bad. One time it had done it's cycle and the tub was half full of water. Other times, the clothes would be soaking wet like it drained but never spun.
speedqueen
Well-known member
If the tub ever ended up fill of water, I would first suspect the pump as these models are neutral drain and no matter how spin performance is, it should never end up full of water. The timer could (extreamly unlikely) also be failing to initiate the drain and spin at all. Without that evidence I would have said the spin clutch or coupler.
If the machine of question would have been 5 years old in June 2018, wouldn't it have been a VMW design, not direct-drive with a coupler? What's the model number?
DADoES, The Centennial is a VMW design. MVWC360AW0 uses W11035747 gearcase. Speedqueen and I are discussing the machine I had before the Centennial. He found one on Craigslist exactly like the direct drive I had 5 years ago. wichita.craigslist.org/app/d/was...
Wait...
Replace the washer because it ended the cycle full of water? whaaaaaat?
1) clogged pump. maybe a sock?
2) damaged pump
3) Drain hose kinked or clogged
About the noise:
If it was trying to spin full of water, of course it will make noise.
Before anything, I would simply check the pump first.
If everything is ok, than it can be the timer (difficult but not impossible)
Anyway, it's much cheaper than replacing the washer.
Bearings went bad? replace them!
Replace the washer because it ended the cycle full of water? whaaaaaat?
1) clogged pump. maybe a sock?
2) damaged pump
3) Drain hose kinked or clogged
About the noise:
If it was trying to spin full of water, of course it will make noise.
Before anything, I would simply check the pump first.
If everything is ok, than it can be the timer (difficult but not impossible)
Anyway, it's much cheaper than replacing the washer.
Bearings went bad? replace them!
pierreandreply4
Well-known member
desell
desell,
maybe you should check if your washer do not simply need a new motor I know by experience I had an old direct drive inglis superbII was just a few days after movbing in it was evening had laundry to do go to put the clothes in the dryer washer was still full of water set it on final spin to have the washer drain out the water the washer only hum and buzz called in a tech and turns out the washer needed a motor replacement cost lest today to have your washer repaired than buy a whole new set
desell,
maybe you should check if your washer do not simply need a new motor I know by experience I had an old direct drive inglis superbII was just a few days after movbing in it was evening had laundry to do go to put the clothes in the dryer washer was still full of water set it on final spin to have the washer drain out the water the washer only hum and buzz called in a tech and turns out the washer needed a motor replacement cost lest today to have your washer repaired than buy a whole new set
Wait...
Replace the washer because it ended the cycle full of water? whaaaaaat?
1) clogged pump. maybe a sock?
2) damaged pump
3) Drain hose kinked or clogged
About the noise:
If it was trying to spin full of water, of course it will make noise.
Before anything, I would simply check the pump first.
If everything is ok, than it can be the timer (difficult but not impossible)
Anyway, it's much cheaper than replacing the washer.
Bearings went bad? replace them!
Replace the washer because it ended the cycle full of water? whaaaaaat?
1) clogged pump. maybe a sock?
2) damaged pump
3) Drain hose kinked or clogged
About the noise:
If it was trying to spin full of water, of course it will make noise.
Before anything, I would simply check the pump first.
If everything is ok, than it can be the timer (difficult but not impossible)
Anyway, it's much cheaper than replacing the washer.
Bearings went bad? replace them!
good-shepherd
Well-known member
the Speed Queeen changed design, I was seriously considering
Call around to some local dealers, you may luck out and find a place that has the older model Speed Queen on hand, or knows who does.
I think combo52 mentioned a while ago he still had a leftover Speed Queen in stock.
Call around to some local dealers, you may luck out and find a place that has the older model Speed Queen on hand, or knows who does.
I think combo52 mentioned a while ago he still had a leftover Speed Queen in stock.
good-shepherd
Well-known member
Got the Centennial apart. The top bearing and tub seal is bad as expected. There was black mold in the bottom. The top and bottom bearings are 6006-2RS. I heated the case with a torch and used a drift punch to knock the top bearing out and separate the tin can. I used my drill press to drill out the toggle locks.
Not sure what a person would do for the top and bottom agitator shaft seals if trying to rebuild the transmission. These are weeping a bit. Also, not sure about the speedy sleeve the tub seal rides on. Maybe it comes with the tub seal? I'm not going to rebuild it, just learning. The bottom bearing is in good condition. What is the trick to keeping the mold from growing in the water left at the bottom?
To prevent mold, that's easy..
1) use hot water always you can
2) Use CHLORINE BLEACH always you can.
1) use hot water always you can
2) Use CHLORINE BLEACH always you can.
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