If the machine of question would have been 5 years old in June 2018, wouldn't it have been a VMW design, not direct-drive with a coupler? What's the model number?
Newbie needs advice for a new top load washer.
- Thread starter dsell
- Start date
Help Support :
If the machine of question would have been 5 years old in June 2018, wouldn't it have been a VMW design, not direct-drive with a coupler? What's the model number?
DADoES, The Centennial is a VMW design. MVWC360AW0 uses W11035747 gearcase. Speedqueen and I are discussing the machine I had before the Centennial. He found one on Craigslist exactly like the direct drive I had 5 years ago. wichita.craigslist.org/app/d/was...
Wait...
Replace the washer because it ended the cycle full of water? whaaaaaat?
1) clogged pump. maybe a sock?
2) damaged pump
3) Drain hose kinked or clogged
About the noise:
If it was trying to spin full of water, of course it will make noise.
Before anything, I would simply check the pump first.
If everything is ok, than it can be the timer (difficult but not impossible)
Anyway, it's much cheaper than replacing the washer.
Bearings went bad? replace them!
Replace the washer because it ended the cycle full of water? whaaaaaat?
1) clogged pump. maybe a sock?
2) damaged pump
3) Drain hose kinked or clogged
About the noise:
If it was trying to spin full of water, of course it will make noise.
Before anything, I would simply check the pump first.
If everything is ok, than it can be the timer (difficult but not impossible)
Anyway, it's much cheaper than replacing the washer.
Bearings went bad? replace them!
pierreandreply4
Well-known member
desell
desell,
maybe you should check if your washer do not simply need a new motor I know by experience I had an old direct drive inglis superbII was just a few days after movbing in it was evening had laundry to do go to put the clothes in the dryer washer was still full of water set it on final spin to have the washer drain out the water the washer only hum and buzz called in a tech and turns out the washer needed a motor replacement cost lest today to have your washer repaired than buy a whole new set
desell,
maybe you should check if your washer do not simply need a new motor I know by experience I had an old direct drive inglis superbII was just a few days after movbing in it was evening had laundry to do go to put the clothes in the dryer washer was still full of water set it on final spin to have the washer drain out the water the washer only hum and buzz called in a tech and turns out the washer needed a motor replacement cost lest today to have your washer repaired than buy a whole new set
Wait...
Replace the washer because it ended the cycle full of water? whaaaaaat?
1) clogged pump. maybe a sock?
2) damaged pump
3) Drain hose kinked or clogged
About the noise:
If it was trying to spin full of water, of course it will make noise.
Before anything, I would simply check the pump first.
If everything is ok, than it can be the timer (difficult but not impossible)
Anyway, it's much cheaper than replacing the washer.
Bearings went bad? replace them!
Replace the washer because it ended the cycle full of water? whaaaaaat?
1) clogged pump. maybe a sock?
2) damaged pump
3) Drain hose kinked or clogged
About the noise:
If it was trying to spin full of water, of course it will make noise.
Before anything, I would simply check the pump first.
If everything is ok, than it can be the timer (difficult but not impossible)
Anyway, it's much cheaper than replacing the washer.
Bearings went bad? replace them!
good-shepherd
Well-known member
the Speed Queeen changed design, I was seriously considering
Call around to some local dealers, you may luck out and find a place that has the older model Speed Queen on hand, or knows who does.
I think combo52 mentioned a while ago he still had a leftover Speed Queen in stock.
Call around to some local dealers, you may luck out and find a place that has the older model Speed Queen on hand, or knows who does.
I think combo52 mentioned a while ago he still had a leftover Speed Queen in stock.
good-shepherd
Well-known member
Got the Centennial apart. The top bearing and tub seal is bad as expected. There was black mold in the bottom. The top and bottom bearings are 6006-2RS. I heated the case with a torch and used a drift punch to knock the top bearing out and separate the tin can. I used my drill press to drill out the toggle locks.
Not sure what a person would do for the top and bottom agitator shaft seals if trying to rebuild the transmission. These are weeping a bit. Also, not sure about the speedy sleeve the tub seal rides on. Maybe it comes with the tub seal? I'm not going to rebuild it, just learning. The bottom bearing is in good condition. What is the trick to keeping the mold from growing in the water left at the bottom?
To prevent mold, that's easy..
1) use hot water always you can
2) Use CHLORINE BLEACH always you can.
1) use hot water always you can
2) Use CHLORINE BLEACH always you can.
Thomasortega, back on the old machine,
Wait...
Replace the washer because it ended the cycle full of water? whaaaaaat?
1) clogged pump. maybe a sock? no
2) damaged pump no, it was new and so was the motor coupler and agitator dogs.
3) Drain hose kinked or clogged, no
About the noise:
If it was trying to spin full of water, of course it will make noise., no
Before anything, I would simply check the pump first. did
If everything is ok, than it can be the timer (difficult but not impossible) very possible, I was worried it may be two problems, timer and gearbox.
Anyway, it's much cheaper than replacing the washer.
Bearings went bad? replace them! I just looked at the diagram and I only see one bearing. I suspect the upper bearing was a bushing? LSQ9244EQ0
Here again, this is just learning for me in case I decide to get an old direct drive and try to fix it. I searched for the video of the old machine running with noises, but I can't find it. I think I deleted it. Hindsight 20/20, I should have bought a new gearbox for that machine.
Wait...
Replace the washer because it ended the cycle full of water? whaaaaaat?
1) clogged pump. maybe a sock? no
2) damaged pump no, it was new and so was the motor coupler and agitator dogs.
3) Drain hose kinked or clogged, no
About the noise:
If it was trying to spin full of water, of course it will make noise., no
Before anything, I would simply check the pump first. did
If everything is ok, than it can be the timer (difficult but not impossible) very possible, I was worried it may be two problems, timer and gearbox.
Anyway, it's much cheaper than replacing the washer.
Bearings went bad? replace them! I just looked at the diagram and I only see one bearing. I suspect the upper bearing was a bushing? LSQ9244EQ0
Here again, this is just learning for me in case I decide to get an old direct drive and try to fix it. I searched for the video of the old machine running with noises, but I can't find it. I think I deleted it. Hindsight 20/20, I should have bought a new gearbox for that machine.
Citric Acid
One of the members, Laundress, could give you a more detailed explanation but, yes, you can add a small amount of citric acid to the final rinse or use a larger amount to remove mineral buildup in a warm wash.
Which brings us to a bit of a conundrum. If you don't use hot water and you don't use chlorine bleach and you don't use a strong detergent...
You're going to have to adapt your washing patterns to compensate.
I'm not saying you can't get the cleaning you need without them, but there's a real problem with the current top loading products on the market:
They just don't clean well without the most advanced (means aggressive) enzymatic cleaners and the least soiled clothes possible using their standard programs.
The first step is to find one of the strong cleaners which is acceptable to you. Ammonia? That one goes back thousands of years and works well, even in colder water.
Borax? Can work wonders, but you'll want to dissolve it in some hot water and pour it in, first.
Baking Soda? Not to be dismissed.
If you're not going to use chlorine bleach, you're going to have to find something else to regularly kill off the mold/microbes/yech building up in your machine. I have a friend here in Cheyenne who is fully eco/coldwater/natural foods grocer's style washing powder, etc. Once a month, he runs a HOT water wash with a strong detergent and adds chlorine bleach to the bleach dispenser. We worked on his 20+ year old Whirlpool a while back, it was quite surprisingly clean inside.
I hope you get everything resolved to your satisfaction. Keep us up to date!
One of the members, Laundress, could give you a more detailed explanation but, yes, you can add a small amount of citric acid to the final rinse or use a larger amount to remove mineral buildup in a warm wash.
Which brings us to a bit of a conundrum. If you don't use hot water and you don't use chlorine bleach and you don't use a strong detergent...
You're going to have to adapt your washing patterns to compensate.
I'm not saying you can't get the cleaning you need without them, but there's a real problem with the current top loading products on the market:
They just don't clean well without the most advanced (means aggressive) enzymatic cleaners and the least soiled clothes possible using their standard programs.
The first step is to find one of the strong cleaners which is acceptable to you. Ammonia? That one goes back thousands of years and works well, even in colder water.
Borax? Can work wonders, but you'll want to dissolve it in some hot water and pour it in, first.
Baking Soda? Not to be dismissed.
If you're not going to use chlorine bleach, you're going to have to find something else to regularly kill off the mold/microbes/yech building up in your machine. I have a friend here in Cheyenne who is fully eco/coldwater/natural foods grocer's style washing powder, etc. Once a month, he runs a HOT water wash with a strong detergent and adds chlorine bleach to the bleach dispenser. We worked on his 20+ year old Whirlpool a while back, it was quite surprisingly clean inside.
I hope you get everything resolved to your satisfaction. Keep us up to date!
Here is another thought to my new machine. How often should I change the tub seal, W10006371 for WTW4816FW2 machine? Obviously, I shouldn't wait 5 years or until the machine makes noise. Change it every year? 2 years? It's a $21 part and fairly easy to access.
What part is the motor coupler on this machine?
I'm sorry I ever mentioned the old direct drive machine that I replaced 5 years ago with the Centennial. That obviously has people seriously confused. The (5 year old Centennial) and (Whirlpool machine that I bought this week) are VMW machines.
Ohhhh, you're talking about your previous/old machine, a WP direct-drive model, regards to ending a cycle full of water? That's an odd situation I'd like to have seen first-hand being that the pump on those is direct-drive on the motor and it doesn't have much choice other than to drain when the motor runs in the correct direction.
washerlad2014
Member
Ohhhh, you're talking about your previous/old machine, a WP direct-drive model, regards to ending a cycle full of water? That's an odd situation I'd like to have seen first-hand being that the pump on those is direct-drive on the motor and it doesn't have much choice other than to drain when the motor runs in the correct direction.
Yes, that's why I got rid of it. I think it had two problems, gearbox noise and timer/control issue. Maybe the motor didn't actually start. Too many if's and not enough time to deal with it. Like I said, hindsight 20/20, I should have pursued fixing it. Where I'm really kicking myself, around that time I bought my Mom a direct drive Whirlpool and dryer from an estate sale and they were like new. I let my brother have it after Mom was killed by a texting driver in 2012. I had just bought the Centennial so I didn't think I needed it.
Yes, that's why I got rid of it. I think it had two problems, gearbox noise and timer/control issue. Maybe the motor didn't actually start. Too many if's and not enough time to deal with it. Like I said, hindsight 20/20, I should have pursued fixing it. Where I'm really kicking myself, around that time I bought my Mom a direct drive Whirlpool and dryer from an estate sale and they were like new. I let my brother have it after Mom was killed by a texting driver in 2012. I had just bought the Centennial so I didn't think I needed it.
I have a nice 2003 TOL WP possibly for sale ... nicely refurbed with fresh paint, new tub support/bearings, basket drive/brake/clutch, but didn't do anything to the transmission. You'd have to come to TX to fetch it.
