Work begins on the1957 Speed Queen TOL

[chestermikeuk]

The Arc of Speed Queen

Loveley find Jon, and always fab to see a childhood classic roar back to life, even more rewarding having had a good restoration.

When was this first type of 210d arc transmission first produced?

And was it for the top loading automatics or the wringer washers?

 

[jetcone]

Oh Robert that would be

lovely thank you!

 

Mike I am just now getting familiar with the SQ line. I am not sure but I think some of the wringers had 210 Arc-Cuate transmissions. I looked in Doctrine and found the same type of transmission and some gears have the same part numbers. 

 

Andrew thanks for the chart it will help everyone. I see the ISO 460 is heavier than gear oil at 90, 460 slides over to 140. So the Royal Purple 145 would work as well as the Mobilgear 460.

Thank you!

I ponied up for the Mobilgear 460 so this machine should end up with the proper slip in the fluid drive!!

 

 

Ughhhh High Vane action in Eddie's machine! See how the high vane doesn't let dirt escape from the bottom of the tub all the way up to the top!

 

 

 

[this post was last edited: 6/10/2014-07:38]

http://https//www.youtube.com/watch?v=XnxwIAoomTA

 

[washman]

jetcone how are things coming along?

Will you have it up and running soon?

 

[jetcone]

I hope to Ben

the gear oil is due in tomorrow for the fluid drive. Replacement should be 20 minutes. I just removed all the panels last nite so that belt tensioning will be easier. Its process with the three belt machines. But I took a gander down in the outer tub, couldn't find the remains of the sediment tube so someone has been in there and cleaned it out. 

I did see some rust in the outer tub so now I am thinking of pulling the tub to address that, I'd sleep better.

 

It sure is pretty all naked and cabinet-less !

 

[jetcone]

Rust was spotted in the outer tub

The prior owner had mentioned the tub not holding water he thought. So further disassembly was required. Fortunately all bolts cooperated. I found one bolt to be plain steel not brass and was really scared to try to remove that but it came free, and it was not completely turned down. So it could have been the leak culprit.

 

Normally the leak culprit is the infamous "sediment tube" which is the reason I was investigating the outer tub. Usually it breaks off and is flung to the bottom of the tub which is why the tub no longer holds water. This occurred in the 1956 Easy I did last year. 

 

I was gobsmacked to find the tube STILL in place and not corroded!! See the photographic evidence for yourselves!

 

We did discover that the tub is a later model the clothes guard was the telltale culprit there.

But I did find pin holes in the outer tub so this may have been the leak Ken was referring too. Off to patch and repair - oh and of course replace that nasty steel bolt with SS or hopefully Brass !! 

 

Also a good cleaning was in order, Come on people! Even a 57 year old washer will need to be cleaned to help it along !!

 

 

[jetcone]

Whats odd is

the sediment tube was installed with the exit top jammed right up against the tub rim so that it never worked from day one!

 

The tub passed the water test below the bolt holes so the tub gasket is good= HOLLA!

 

You can see that in the photos above. 

 

 

 

[jetcone]

Now for some deep lubrication

Greg was right this is a newer center post - lucky me! It has the plastic bearing on top and better water seal for the agitate shaft. 

So I pushed the envelop for later repairs! I soaked the tub bolts all last nite in PB Rust Blaster - HOLLA!

So today with careful prodding they ALL came free from the aluminum center post and I was able to clean them all and lube with NEVA SIEZE - my secret reassembly weapon!

 

And Kleen Tubs are Happy Tubs - see the photographic evidence for yourselves !

 

 

[jetcone]

You can see the blackening of the rust in pic #4

I used Extend on rust to halt it, it acts overnite turning rust black. Where you see red it has no effect but that means the rust is also not exposed to water yet so its under the wire so to speak. Extend will put a coating on that as well. Next the pin holes will be plugged with plumbers epoxy for forever sealing.

 

 

[washman]

keep on keeping on jetcone

I watch this thread each day and cannot wait until you have it all back together. Be sure to get extensive footage, if you are able, up on youtube for all to see.

 

[rickr]

Great job Jon! You will have that Speed Queen ready in no time!

 

[jetcone]

Thanks Rick

much appreciated.

 

Today I changed the fluid drive oil, it was like water after 57 years nothing like new transmission fluid. Also reemed out the tub support plate, and sealed the pin hole leaks in the outer tub with 2 part epoxy. 

 

It appears the fluid drive takes 3/4 cup of magic fluid. Look at the difference 57 versus new looks like.

 

I found out today her motor has thrown her hi speed coils so only low speed works, took a gander at the control console and sure enough it is set to LOW. 
Thank heavens Larry has parts-in-stock® !! A new motor is rolling this way. However Turquoisedude is going to help me rebuild the original Packard motor I 'd really like this machine to stay all original and have a spare too. 

 

 

 

 

 

[toploader55]

Good Lord !!!

You are amazing.

 

[jetcone]

Hugs and kisses

Eddie!
Oo and a lobster roll.....

 

[jetcone]

Mike I totally spaced on your question

yes I too noticed the date stamp of 4 - 10 - 21 . It can't be an actual date as the transmissions for the wringers were longer and had an extra area where the gearing went up to the wringer. 

But the trannys are similar in every other way and some of the gear part numbers are the same too.

 

I don't have experience with wringers so maybe someone else can answer that question???

 

[combo52]

Speed Queen Fluid Drive Fluid

Is supposed to be like water, these used a very light oil much like automatic transmission fluid, ONLY LIGHTER.

I predict that if you put a heaver oil in this it will either cause the motor to stay in the start winding and maybe trip the motors overload protector, or cause the belt to slip or, ruin the friction coupler under the FD clutch.

I am waiting for the video.

 

[jetcone]

We'll see

Doctrine calls for viscolite HH. which is SAE93, gear oil is SAE90. SAE90 is thicker than water so SAE93 will be even thicker. I think thats what the clutch is for under the  fluid drive.

The fluid has to be thick enough that the drive will reach lock up in order to transmit all the power to the tub.

John I would never compare transmission fluid to water but I would compare 3 in1 oil to water.

 

 

 

 

[this post was last edited: 6/16/2014-07:14]

 

[mayfan69]

Fluid drive oil

Hi Jon

 

Not sure if this helps at all, but my Simpson Fluid Drive manuals state: "oil content is 270 c.c of 'Toledo Oil', which is a product of Mobil Oil Co." This was for the earliest Simpson machines in the 1950's and 60s.

 

My later manual for the 1970's models state: "270 cc of 'Teleo Oil' (Vacuum Oil Co.)"

 

Not sure if any of that makes sense.

 

Cheers

Leon 

 

 

[washman]

Can't wait to see this machine running

keep us posted on progress.

Long live the Arc-Cuate 210!

 

[jetcone]

Leon

thats interesting! Thank you another lead I'll investigate.

Jon

 

 

[this post was last edited: 6/16/2014-09:07]

PDS Search

www.mobil.com

 

[washman]

Found a fluid drive unit

on ebay canada.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Speed-Queen-Fluid-Drive-PN-24706-/301093645358