MOVING A MAYTAG E2L

[wringer]

Darn,

I am of no help to you but certainly am standing by you watching your every move. I knew you would not give up. However, it is always good to get away from things for a bit. I just looked at my 3 gals and the E has a black rubber plug in that hole and the other two have screws in them. I have no idea what they are for but the hole is filled as stated above. Geoff will be here soon to give you some help I am sure. He will know about this situation. I am wondering if the cork gasket rather than the rubber O ring type may have been the problem? I am told that the cork one was only used on the older models with the cast aluminum tub. Anyhow, you have a lot of support here but no help in person LOL. Good Luck Larry !!! Keep us informed as we all care !

Jim

 

[e2l-arry]

Jim, I didn't use

the cork gasket. I bought that by mistake after looking at the parts manual. I didn't notice one gasket was labeled "old" and the other rubber one "new". Apparently the "new' one is designed for the spun aluminum tubs, which I have. And, here's the catch, if installed CORRECTLY does the job!

It only took me about 30 minutes to get the thing apart. After 4 hours yesterday putting it back together.

When I order another set of gaskets I'll ask Phil if he sells the rubber plugs. If not I'll plug it myself. I am convinced that was a big part of the problem. The other, incorrect alignment of the power unit / center plate. NOW I figure it out!

Stan, if you go upstream to the picture where I took out the first tub, on one of those pictures you'll see the rubber gasket laying on the floor under the skirt. I'ts just a big O-ring basically

 

[geoffdelp]

OK ... lots 'o questions; which is a good thing.

Phil does sell the rubber used to plug that screw hole; I learned it the hard way in reusing a screw without the lead washer; bad mistake. I caught mine, however, with oil shooting out everywhere; before I put the tub back on. Live and learn. Don't forget to tap the center plate securely in that area after placing the plug in; that center plate needs to sit flush to the power unit. That's where that little screw is very important; it also pulled the center plate down to the power unit making a good seal and without it, you will have to make sure that plate is all the way down to the power unit.

You are probably OK with the alignment of your tub to the center plate, Larry. Keep it at a quarter of inch if that's what the book says. It is apparent that the water got in from the center plate not being sufficiently water tight. Those bolts with the rubber washers are very, very important.

You can probably reuse what you have but order a couple more from Phil ... the short ones ... for the middle of the center plate. You tighten it down but don't over-tighten. Just take it to the point on the socket wrench where it's getting harder to tighten; don't crank on it.

Did you get the water out of the right angle drive? Probably going to be OK.

Could the leak from the seal by the flywheel have been caused by the water mixing with the oil? Those transmissions were not designed to hold water; only thick lubrication. Was it just a few drops or LOTS of oil dripping out? I've noticed that on my pink E, it has had water in the transmission, and that area leaked drops of black lubrication out; not a lot but enough to PO me! When the transmission fluid got changed, the leak stopped.

If you're uncomfortable with your original power unit, keep using this one. Clean it up (don't use hot water this time ... OK? ... only parts cleaner), re-gasket and try again.

I hope I'm helping you with my advice, Larry. I don't want you to have the Valdez in your basement shooting out Bosco!!

Wish I had a video tape or something to show you how to do this but I think you're going to get it. Just don't get PO'd; go slow ... you're very mechanically inclined.

 

[stan]

just looked at mine

and my E appears to have some kind of rubber plug in it like Jim's E! Never noticed it before had to poke around on it to see and feel!
I probably poked a hole in it trying to find out LOL
Also noticed that all the gulmite bolts have a rubber washer with the exception of the two that hold the P.U ??

So either they were not used there, or the edges of mine have disintegrated ?
Dose anyone know why the gulmite bolts should not be re used (with new rubbers) ?

Larry have you checked that agitator shaft seal (just to make sure)

Just brainstorming here, but what about wrapping the threads of each bolt with a little teflon tape (again just to make sure)

 

[e2l-arry]

Hi Geoff

This power unit is the # 2 power unit, what I call the Ebay unit. This one was only cleaned with parts cleaner. I never used water to flush this one. I noticed something yesterday that there was an oil spot on the floor after I had run it without the tub. I was working on the washer in another part of the basement away from the laundry area. Better lighting. That spot was the dark color Bosco. Like the black oil you describe. Not at all the same color as the fresh oil I had just added. At first I wondered if it was a spot I missed cleaning from last week. So I wipe it up and run it again. Later another drop in the same spot. Dark like before. When I had the machine running wash, I did see a spot of the dark stuff under the pulley. Then later also with a lot of water. Then much clearer oil with lots of water in it was on the floor under the vent. So I don't know if the water flushed out the last of the old oil or if it will continue to leak from that shaft if I use it the #2 power unit again. I may gamble and use the original. Then run it for about an hour a couple of times without the tub to see if it locks up at all. Once I'm convinced it's good, put the tub back on. Of course I could do that with the #2 power unit to check for any more oil leaks by the pulley shaft. All these decisions!

When I order the new gaskets I'll ask about 4 more bolts and a rubber plug. I'm also thinking maybe I should change my sequence of putting it back together. Maybe I should fill it with oil and put the center plate back when it's still on the bench? Then I really have a better view of how evenly the plate covers the power unit.

 

[e2l-arry]

Stan,

I did remove and reinspect and clean the agitator seal last week. It appeared to make a good seal when I put it back in.

 

[stan]

Geoff

I'm confused! (wouldn't be the first time)
is the rubber over the screw, or rubber under the screw? I don't see a screw in mine just see rubber?
And dose this screw (if present in the E model) actually serve a purpose, like helping to hold the center plate to the P.U (or P.U to center plate)

Can only imagine it's there to help with alignment, configuration, or something?

Also, is there a reason NOT to re use the same bolts, (in my case the gulmite) and what are your thoughts about using a little teflon tape on the threads of the bolts, prior to installation?

(sorry for all the questions Geoff) LOL

 

[wringer]

G'morning all,

Coffee time again with you all. Stan, I have the same question about the rubber plug in my E and not in my J and N. So Geoff, should I buy a plug to put on top of my screws in the N and J or was this something added in later models? I am presuming that there is a screw in the E with a rubber plug on top of it?

I misunderstood you Larry about which gasket you used. Sorry !! I for one have learned a lot from you during this rebuild. And yes, you are very mechanically inclined. Can I borrow some of it from you? LOL

Keep plugging away and writing such detailed information here for all of us.

Good Luck !!!

Jim

 

[e2l-arry]

If I got this right

You either have the plug OR the screw but you wouldn't have both. It sounds to me like some of the repair guys, or Maytag guys themselves figured out you really didn't need the screw to have a good seal. It was so much trouble that someone got creative and came up with a plug to keep water out and just said "screw the screw!"

Another idea came to me last night on where I might have messed up the P.U. to tub height adjustment. Prior to putting the P.U. back in, I had tightened down the vertical wringer assembly. Maybe I should have left that loose? That way when I adjust the height of the P.U. the entire assembly would float up or down since they're all tied together by the horizontal drive shaft. With the vertical drive held fast into place, it can't move but forcing the transmission to move it would only move at an angle. It did seem the gap was uneven when I put the tub in and, at the time couldn't figure out why. I mean, it's not like I had the washer parked on a hill. LOL! Am I onto something here or has this whole project sent me over the bend?

 

[geoffdelp]

Hi Larry ... you're thinking is just fine; you haven't gone over the bend. You should leave the bolts loose for the wringer post; it will help you adjust the power unit/center plate. Once you have it where you think it needs to be, you tighten it down.

As far as putting the center plate on the power unit on the work bench; matter of preference, I suppose. I like to have the power unit on the machine because of the potential for oil spillage. It can happen quite easily if it's tilted the wrong way.

Larry's right, guys ... either the rubber plug or the screw; not both.

 

[e2l-arry]

Placed my order

with Phil today. I'm getting 6 more 1/2" bolts with the washer things attached, new gaskets and the rubber plug. He even sent a picture telling me what end to thread through, pull as tight as I can then cut it off flush to the surface on both ends.

I also heard back from Kevin the label guy from Ohio. He explained that with these old time labels you don't try and peel them off like I did. You place in water momentarily, then you SLIDE the label off the paper and apply. Everything modern is crack and peel so I messed it up. He said he'd split the cost of a new one with me and I thought that was very fair of him. I took him up on his offer.

I've been thinking I still want to use my same EBay power unit again. That one has no chipped teeth and the pinion gear is in better shape, although those are easily changed out. I think it ran better than the one it came with but to be fair, I haven't run that one since it was cleaned and had the loose metal bit removed. It really ran well except for the leak at the pulley shaft. But like Geoff said, once the new oil works through sometimes the leak stops. But that stuff that came out Saturday was pretty darn thick! I could fill it and run for an hour or so and evaluate? But, now here's an idea I got today. I might take that worm gear oil seal apart for cleaning and reassembly. It's just washer, seal, washer, spring washer, washer and snap ring. How hard can that be? If I hose it up, I still have another power unit. Nice to have a spare. Any thoughts?

Larry

 

[stan]

Your scarrin me !

LOL

 

[e2l-arry]

Today's adventure!

I do like my EBay power unit better than the original. It just ran and sounded a lot smoother than the one it came with. Granted, I haven't run the original since it was cleaned and the loose metal removed but, the devil you know . . .Except for those drips of the old dark oil it (the Ebay PU) was leaking at the pulley shaft. So tonight I did what I'd been thinking about. I removed and cleaned the washers and seal that are assembled around the pulley shaft.

I pulled all 6 layers out and kept them in order. Then used cleaner and cleaned the seal and washers and got all the old gunk out of the shaft housing. The seal appeared to be in good shape. I could even still read the numbers on it. So when re-assembling, the seal had a nice snug fit. Put it all back together in the right order, put the snap ring back on a PRESTO!

Like I said, it's just washer, seal, washer, spring washer, washer, snap ring. Piece of cake!

Between the cleaning and the new oil I hope there will be no more dripping out of that shaft. I'll run it for a good bit before I put the tub back in. So if I made it worse somehow, I don't see how THAT'S possible, but if I did, I'll swap it out the the one it came with.

 

[stan]

Good job.

hate to ask you, but can you snap another pic of that from a different angle.
I'd like to get a better look at the spot where the pulley is attached. Trying to see if part of the shaft is flat?

(once in a while, mine drips a tiny bit from there too)

 

[geoffdelp]

Nice, Larry. It is pretty simple, isn't it? Kind of reminds you of the center plate seal, doesn't it?

Fun to watch; isn't it Stan?

 

[e2l-arry]

Stan,

It's already re-assembled so I can't take another picture. But looking at it I can tell that the shaft is round until it's through the unit. Then about maybe the last 2 inched has a flat side to secure the bolt from the pulley.

 

[stan]

O.K thats

what I thought!

Yes it is fun to watch, wish I could be there in person to see, that would be more fun.
For now we'll just have to rely on Larry's pics!

Out of curiosity...is it just the die hards hanging on here? I know Jim, Geoff, myself, and of course Larry, are tuning in on this? Any of the rest of you out there peeking in? LOL

 

[d-jones]

Stan

I don't have a wringer washer or any experience with them, so I haven't had anything worthwhile to add to this thread. But it's still very interesting, so I've been following it closely since it morphed from moving a wringer to essentially overhauling one. And even though I'm not commenting on his progress, I'll keep checking in until Larry finishes this project or throws in the towel. So yes, others are following this thread. ; - )

 

[e2l-arry]

Mikeyd

still checks in from time to time. alr2903 Also made comment after last weekends disasterous adventures. Hopefully, the only towel throwing I'll be doing will be a dirty one into a WORKING and water tight, non-oil leaking, refurbished E2LP Maytag Conventional Washer! I think I'm due!

 

[stan]

whats

alr2903 ?