e2l-arry
Well-known member
Yea!
The pump's in and working. Noe for the tub. After dinner it will be wash time!
The pump's in and working. Noe for the tub. After dinner it will be wash time!
MOVING A MAYTAG E2L
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e2l-arry
Well-known member
7 WEEKS AGO TODAY!
I brought this little beauty home. AND I'VE HAD NOTHING BUT HEARTACHES EVER SINCE!!!!
HA! Just kidding. Got the whole thing reassembled in about 4 hours. I had to overcome a few obsticals. Like not knowing what I'm doing! I bet next time I can do it in half the time.
I'll do a few test loads tonight! She's all back together and as pretty as a picture, so here is one!
I brought this little beauty home. AND I'VE HAD NOTHING BUT HEARTACHES EVER SINCE!!!!
HA! Just kidding. Got the whole thing reassembled in about 4 hours. I had to overcome a few obsticals. Like not knowing what I'm doing! I bet next time I can do it in half the time.
I'll do a few test loads tonight! She's all back together and as pretty as a picture, so here is one!
e2l-arry
Well-known member
The underside
Hasn't looked this clean since she came off the assembly line in June 1964. It may not last but here's what it looks like today.
Hasn't looked this clean since she came off the assembly line in June 1964. It may not last but here's what it looks like today.
Beautiful
Umm what "next time" the hell you've been through, can't imagine you'd even consider a next time LOL!
A couple of thing I"ll give you an heads up on, now that she's ready to wash, and pump... If the pump lever linkage is adjusted a little to tight, the lever may pop back over to the OFF position by itself, its no big deal (mine dose this and haven't bothered to re adjust)
As Mike said up thread, the pumps are mighty, and will empty that tub right quick!
While its pumping out, don't be surprised if you lid rattle's !LOL (mine dose, and never been able to stop) Also no big deal.
After what you been through this little things, will seem like heaven!
Beautiful job Larry
Umm what "next time" the hell you've been through, can't imagine you'd even consider a next time LOL!
A couple of thing I"ll give you an heads up on, now that she's ready to wash, and pump... If the pump lever linkage is adjusted a little to tight, the lever may pop back over to the OFF position by itself, its no big deal (mine dose this and haven't bothered to re adjust)
As Mike said up thread, the pumps are mighty, and will empty that tub right quick!
While its pumping out, don't be surprised if you lid rattle's !LOL (mine dose, and never been able to stop) Also no big deal.
After what you been through this little things, will seem like heaven!
Beautiful job Larry
geoffdelp
Well-known member
She shore is purty!! 
WONDERFUL, AMAZING, FANTASTIC! You did it!
When you tested it without the tub, was it quiet? Agitator gear connected well?
You'll have to let us know how you like that pump. Have you tried it out yet before washing? Maytag's literature said it would empty the tub in 2 minutes or less. Once the wheel connects to the flywheel, the impeller in the pump really shoots out the water.
Enjoy, Larry; you've done great!!
WONDERFUL, AMAZING, FANTASTIC! You did it! When you tested it without the tub, was it quiet? Agitator gear connected well?
You'll have to let us know how you like that pump. Have you tried it out yet before washing? Maytag's literature said it would empty the tub in 2 minutes or less. Once the wheel connects to the flywheel, the impeller in the pump really shoots out the water.
Enjoy, Larry; you've done great!!
e2l-arry
Well-known member
Well,
I must have done something backwards because now you push in to start the agitator and pull out to stop. But I can live with that.
There's more bad news. I used it tonight and first I saw 1 spot of Bosco on the floor. I traced it back to the pulley shaft from my EBay replacement transmission. It was old because it looked nothing like the fresh oil I put in today. So I wonder if that will stop or I'll put my other PU back in and hope for no more locking up. I put a bucket under and by the end of washing there was quite a bit.
Next, I go to empty the machine with me new pump and NADA! It ran when I hooked it up but must need some final adjustment. At least with the longer hose and goose neck it was easier getting it to the floor drain.
And now the REALLY sad part. Lots of drainage out of the vent. Nice puddle of the new oil I put in today with a lot of water mixed in. So there is a BIG leak but damned if I can spot it. I kind of suspect that 1 lone screw. All the bolts are tight.
So . . . maybe not for a while, but I need to pull the tub again, and get another set of gaskets and bolts from Phil. Maybe when I pull the center plate I'll get a clue of where the leak is. Try my original transmission that I know wasn't leaking from the pulley shaft.
.
DAMN!
Not the results I was hoping for but I won't let this haunted machine beat me!
I must have done something backwards because now you push in to start the agitator and pull out to stop. But I can live with that.
There's more bad news. I used it tonight and first I saw 1 spot of Bosco on the floor. I traced it back to the pulley shaft from my EBay replacement transmission. It was old because it looked nothing like the fresh oil I put in today. So I wonder if that will stop or I'll put my other PU back in and hope for no more locking up. I put a bucket under and by the end of washing there was quite a bit.
Next, I go to empty the machine with me new pump and NADA! It ran when I hooked it up but must need some final adjustment. At least with the longer hose and goose neck it was easier getting it to the floor drain.
And now the REALLY sad part. Lots of drainage out of the vent. Nice puddle of the new oil I put in today with a lot of water mixed in. So there is a BIG leak but damned if I can spot it. I kind of suspect that 1 lone screw. All the bolts are tight.
So . . . maybe not for a while, but I need to pull the tub again, and get another set of gaskets and bolts from Phil. Maybe when I pull the center plate I'll get a clue of where the leak is. Try my original transmission that I know wasn't leaking from the pulley shaft.
.
DAMN!
Not the results I was hoping for but I won't let this haunted machine beat me!
Oh no, Larry i have followed your posts and great photo's. I had a moment of worry, when you mentioned using the that alternate PU. Maybe the old girl, just wants her original heart back, so to speak. You have reworked all of it maybe just too much "new" at one time. alr
I'm dying here
My God this old girl is being difficult!
Where could the Bosco come from? You had all that cleaned out?
Leaks! ...You had new tub bolts and new rubber washers?? Could it be the center plate seal? I know you put a new one on, before the tare down, but ... ??
Think we all know you well enough now, that we know this wont get the better of you, but I'll tell you, it sure causes me to pause at the idea of doing mine!
I know that I'll have to do this sooner or later, but after reading this... Umm, think that will be a later LOL
My God this old girl is being difficult!
Where could the Bosco come from? You had all that cleaned out?
Leaks! ...You had new tub bolts and new rubber washers?? Could it be the center plate seal? I know you put a new one on, before the tare down, but ... ??
Think we all know you well enough now, that we know this wont get the better of you, but I'll tell you, it sure causes me to pause at the idea of doing mine!
I know that I'll have to do this sooner or later, but after reading this... Umm, think that will be a later LOL
e2l-arry
Well-known member
I have no idea
I will remove the tub again. I'll have to! Piece of cake for an old pro like me. I have to drain the PU again now that I know it has water in it. But you're right Stan, new bolts, new seal, I don't know where I went wrong.
So here's what I'm thinking of doing next. Pull the tub. Then figure out the adjustment on the pump. That'll either run against the pulley when "ON" or not. An easy enough adjustment. Unless it's already making contact and I got a bum pump. I'll have to remove the center plate again and get another new gasket. Switch out the P.U. to the one it came with. That one didn't leak at the pulley seal.
Now, If I put the original back on and it goes back to locking up again, which is why I didn't put it back in the first place, then I have an operation between units. Make one working unit out of 2.
I'm tempted to use my cork gasket this time. It just covers for much more real estate than that rubber gasket. I'll try ANYTHING at this point. If it doesn't work I'm no stranger to failure here.
Another advantage I have here is I know there are no holes in the new tub. So the only possible leaks have to come from the bolts and/or the center plate seal. Next time I put it back together I'm going to give them all a coat of Goop.
But right now, I'm drying tonight's wash and I'll be going back to using my front loader for a couple of weeks. Some advise I got from Stan at the start of this. He said "I can just walk away" for awhile. And after 7 weeks of this I think I'll be taking a break.
I'm not giving up but I really think I need a break after today.
I appreciate everyone's support. I'll be back!
Larry
I will remove the tub again. I'll have to! Piece of cake for an old pro like me. I have to drain the PU again now that I know it has water in it. But you're right Stan, new bolts, new seal, I don't know where I went wrong.
So here's what I'm thinking of doing next. Pull the tub. Then figure out the adjustment on the pump. That'll either run against the pulley when "ON" or not. An easy enough adjustment. Unless it's already making contact and I got a bum pump. I'll have to remove the center plate again and get another new gasket. Switch out the P.U. to the one it came with. That one didn't leak at the pulley seal.
Now, If I put the original back on and it goes back to locking up again, which is why I didn't put it back in the first place, then I have an operation between units. Make one working unit out of 2.
I'm tempted to use my cork gasket this time. It just covers for much more real estate than that rubber gasket. I'll try ANYTHING at this point. If it doesn't work I'm no stranger to failure here.
Another advantage I have here is I know there are no holes in the new tub. So the only possible leaks have to come from the bolts and/or the center plate seal. Next time I put it back together I'm going to give them all a coat of Goop.
But right now, I'm drying tonight's wash and I'll be going back to using my front loader for a couple of weeks. Some advise I got from Stan at the start of this. He said "I can just walk away" for awhile. And after 7 weeks of this I think I'll be taking a break.
I'm not giving up but I really think I need a break after today.
I appreciate everyone's support. I'll be back!
Larry
Think the
cork gasket is certainly worth a try at this point, so is the "Goop" (good stuff) Don't know what P.U is better? my guess is that the one that it came with, locked up because of that piece of metal.
Did you hear the pump when it was engaged? They make quite a roar when the fly wheel and pump wheel meet. It may be just a little short, (adjustment) where it's not quite touching.
Sure can't blame you for taking a rest from it, you certainly deserve one!
We're here to help, when you you try again!
cork gasket is certainly worth a try at this point, so is the "Goop" (good stuff) Don't know what P.U is better? my guess is that the one that it came with, locked up because of that piece of metal.
Did you hear the pump when it was engaged? They make quite a roar when the fly wheel and pump wheel meet. It may be just a little short, (adjustment) where it's not quite touching.
Sure can't blame you for taking a rest from it, you certainly deserve one!
We're here to help, when you you try again!
e2l-arry
Well-known member
There's icing on the cake I forgot
That red label on the back with the patent numbers? I bought one from that guy in Ohio. So today I figure I'll put that on. Find out, it's not some peel back and stick label. This is some ancient thing from some print shop in Newton Iowa. How this Ohio guy got them is beyond me, But alas, they're not only old, they're VERY brittle! Directions say to lay momentarily in water. When's the last time you read that for an instruction for a sticker? Well anyway, I put it in that water then when I tried to peel it off the backing, it disintegrates into just a pile of mush.
I find that only fitting. But watch out when ordering decals and labels. That sometimes aren't what you'd call, strictly fresh.
That red label on the back with the patent numbers? I bought one from that guy in Ohio. So today I figure I'll put that on. Find out, it's not some peel back and stick label. This is some ancient thing from some print shop in Newton Iowa. How this Ohio guy got them is beyond me, But alas, they're not only old, they're VERY brittle! Directions say to lay momentarily in water. When's the last time you read that for an instruction for a sticker? Well anyway, I put it in that water then when I tried to peel it off the backing, it disintegrates into just a pile of mush.
I find that only fitting. But watch out when ordering decals and labels. That sometimes aren't what you'd call, strictly fresh.
geoffdelp
Well-known member
Larry ... you are too close to give up!! Now listen ... you were in a hurry to get it done; mistakes can happen and especially for it being your first time. Slow down and go through it thoroughly.
You're right about the pump; you can adjust that later. That's the least of your worries. It's probably just a matter of moving the pump closer to the flywheel.
Start with the tub to center plate connection. Does the tub rest on the top of the center plate or is there more than a 1/8" gap? If there's more of a gap, that means you do not have the power unit adjusted right and it's not close enough to the tub. You've got to use the bolt that's holding it to the cross frame to move it closer. The rubber gasket on the center plate is MORE than enough. Do not use the cork gasket; it's not right for those center plates. Also, when tightening those 1/2" hex-head bolts, don't over-tighten; make sure you have a secure connection of the rubber gasket to the tub.
You've got the agitator connection wrong. Look at the drawings in the service manual. The "toggle" for the agitator needs to be pushed all the way forward towards the power unit before you put the agitator control arm, pin, and spring back on.
If you truly have water running out the right angle drive breather hole, you DO have a major leak! Again, double-check your work for placing the water seal in the center plate; make sure you did that correctly. Also, that little screw could be problematic. Phil stopped using those screws and is using a piece of solid rubber. You pull the rubber through the hole and then cut it off flush to the center plate. When placing the center plate back on the machine, you have to use a rubber mallet to tap it down so it makes complete connection; VERY important to have that hole blocked.
I'm unclear as to why you would have so much lubrication coming out of the breather hole unless water is mixing in and making the lubrication too thin. There must be a lot of water getting into that transmission to do that; especially after only one use. You've got to go through and make sure those connections are water-tight.
Once you do all of this, Larry. You should run the machine without the pump for a good 10-15 minutes with the agitator on so you can see if it develops oil leaks. If no leaks and you're ready to put the tub back on, make sure the tub lines up well and you have a solid connection to the center plate; don't use GOOP ... address the connection instead. Water test the machine with a bucket of hot water in it and let it sit there and then turn the machine on and let it agitate.
I know it's frustrating but you really are close; I think it's just the connections you've made.
You're right about the pump; you can adjust that later. That's the least of your worries. It's probably just a matter of moving the pump closer to the flywheel.
Start with the tub to center plate connection. Does the tub rest on the top of the center plate or is there more than a 1/8" gap? If there's more of a gap, that means you do not have the power unit adjusted right and it's not close enough to the tub. You've got to use the bolt that's holding it to the cross frame to move it closer. The rubber gasket on the center plate is MORE than enough. Do not use the cork gasket; it's not right for those center plates. Also, when tightening those 1/2" hex-head bolts, don't over-tighten; make sure you have a secure connection of the rubber gasket to the tub.
You've got the agitator connection wrong. Look at the drawings in the service manual. The "toggle" for the agitator needs to be pushed all the way forward towards the power unit before you put the agitator control arm, pin, and spring back on.
If you truly have water running out the right angle drive breather hole, you DO have a major leak! Again, double-check your work for placing the water seal in the center plate; make sure you did that correctly. Also, that little screw could be problematic. Phil stopped using those screws and is using a piece of solid rubber. You pull the rubber through the hole and then cut it off flush to the center plate. When placing the center plate back on the machine, you have to use a rubber mallet to tap it down so it makes complete connection; VERY important to have that hole blocked.
I'm unclear as to why you would have so much lubrication coming out of the breather hole unless water is mixing in and making the lubrication too thin. There must be a lot of water getting into that transmission to do that; especially after only one use. You've got to go through and make sure those connections are water-tight.
Once you do all of this, Larry. You should run the machine without the pump for a good 10-15 minutes with the agitator on so you can see if it develops oil leaks. If no leaks and you're ready to put the tub back on, make sure the tub lines up well and you have a solid connection to the center plate; don't use GOOP ... address the connection instead. Water test the machine with a bucket of hot water in it and let it sit there and then turn the machine on and let it agitate.
I know it's frustrating but you really are close; I think it's just the connections you've made.
Lordie, Lordie !!
It took me 2 cups of coffee to get this far in the thread today Larry. I agree that you need a bit of a rest from good ole Bessie May. She sure is cantankerous. I could not have done all you have done my friend. I say friend because you have become a great friend to all of us here following your journey with Bessie May. Geoff, I would have given my eye teeth to have had the opportunity you had when you were young working on these babies. I love to go to the Amish shop just to watch Myron working and doing a meticulous job of restoring. He is only 20 and just got married the 3rd but acts and works like someone who has been doing it for many more years than he has. He learned from his father who has done this his entire life. He used to rebuild them for Lehman's in Kidron, Oh but quit there and started his own business because they didn't want him to do the good job he was doing. They wanted them in the back door and out the side door in a very short period of time. Sloppy as I said when I saw one of them.
Another thing I have noticed and heard from others Larry is that the E's make more noise than the J's and N's because of the space between the tub and skirt. I have found that to be the case with mine.
The greatest of luck to you Larry. Please keep us updated on your progress and what you do. You will make it through this and Bessie May will be your friend the rest of your life. You have a lot of your life in here now !!!!
Best !!
Jim
It took me 2 cups of coffee to get this far in the thread today Larry. I agree that you need a bit of a rest from good ole Bessie May. She sure is cantankerous. I could not have done all you have done my friend. I say friend because you have become a great friend to all of us here following your journey with Bessie May. Geoff, I would have given my eye teeth to have had the opportunity you had when you were young working on these babies. I love to go to the Amish shop just to watch Myron working and doing a meticulous job of restoring. He is only 20 and just got married the 3rd but acts and works like someone who has been doing it for many more years than he has. He learned from his father who has done this his entire life. He used to rebuild them for Lehman's in Kidron, Oh but quit there and started his own business because they didn't want him to do the good job he was doing. They wanted them in the back door and out the side door in a very short period of time. Sloppy as I said when I saw one of them.
Another thing I have noticed and heard from others Larry is that the E's make more noise than the J's and N's because of the space between the tub and skirt. I have found that to be the case with mine.
The greatest of luck to you Larry. Please keep us updated on your progress and what you do. You will make it through this and Bessie May will be your friend the rest of your life. You have a lot of your life in here now !!!!
Best !!
Jim
e2l-arry
Well-known member
Geoff made some good points
I wondered if over tightening could be an issue. I tightened the hell out of those bolts. I do think water got through that 1 screw hole. If I can't find a rubber piece to fit maybe I'd just fill it in with something else.If I ever get that far.
I still have the issue of oil leaking out the pulley shaft. I did file a complaint with Pay Pal that this part does NOT work correctly as advertised. Probably nothing will come of that though.
The gap between the tub and the center plate did seem large to me and I thought about raising the power unit with the adjustment bolt on the bottom but the service manual says 1/4 inch and I didn't want to second guess the pros. But some of the "instruction" on that manual leaves a lot to be desired. Some instruction is very "step by step" while some of it is very vague. Especially to a novice.
I will say that after sleeping on it, this morning I wanted to rip it apart, sell whatever I bought, agitator, pump, hardware even that tub if there was a buyer. Then list anything salvageable like the motor, leg extensions and casters and wringer rollers. Finally take the skirt frame, legs and wringer post and housing to the metal scrap yard in Golden and recoup at least some of my financial loss. I still might. Everyone has their limit!
But for now, a cooling off period. I moved it into a storage room in the basement and threw an old blanket over it and shut the door. Out of sight, out of mind. Then spent the next 1/2 hour cleaning up the mess the Exon Valdez left on the floor!
I wondered if over tightening could be an issue. I tightened the hell out of those bolts. I do think water got through that 1 screw hole. If I can't find a rubber piece to fit maybe I'd just fill it in with something else.If I ever get that far.
I still have the issue of oil leaking out the pulley shaft. I did file a complaint with Pay Pal that this part does NOT work correctly as advertised. Probably nothing will come of that though.
The gap between the tub and the center plate did seem large to me and I thought about raising the power unit with the adjustment bolt on the bottom but the service manual says 1/4 inch and I didn't want to second guess the pros. But some of the "instruction" on that manual leaves a lot to be desired. Some instruction is very "step by step" while some of it is very vague. Especially to a novice.
I will say that after sleeping on it, this morning I wanted to rip it apart, sell whatever I bought, agitator, pump, hardware even that tub if there was a buyer. Then list anything salvageable like the motor, leg extensions and casters and wringer rollers. Finally take the skirt frame, legs and wringer post and housing to the metal scrap yard in Golden and recoup at least some of my financial loss. I still might. Everyone has their limit!
But for now, a cooling off period. I moved it into a storage room in the basement and threw an old blanket over it and shut the door. Out of sight, out of mind. Then spent the next 1/2 hour cleaning up the mess the Exon Valdez left on the floor!
Geoff
"Also, that little screw cant be problematic "
You lost me! what little screw are we talking about ?
"Also, that little screw cant be problematic "
You lost me! what little screw are we talking about ?
e2l-arry
Well-known member
Well, that passed
my foul mood and I'm back on the case. I took it apart again. That goes faster every time. It looked to me like the pump wheel was making contact with the pulley so I'll check that out from below next time I have water in it? I might have gotten a bum pump or it is just an adjustment.
I had to disconnect the agitator activation shaft so during the re-install I'll do it correctly. But having them opposite really I could have lived with.
Took of the center plate and the trans was FULL of water. So not just some leak, we're talking BIG HONKIN' LEAK(S)! The thing looked like it was left over from Hurricane Katrina! The bottom side of the rubber gasket for the center plate was all wet so that tells me something. Next time I will raise it with the bottom bolt to level with the tub. Whether that's a 1/4" or more from the support frame to the bottom of the unit. I'll definitely need new gaskets. They both tore. So here's my list of questions.
1.Do I need to use another new set of new bolts? I used 2 of the set from Phil to connect the Center Plate to the Power Unit. I cranked those on pretty tightly and when I removed them that washer/rubber seal part stayed on. Then since I used those 2 there, I was 2 short for the tub installation. So for those 2 I used the same 1/2" bolt from Ace with a rubber washer, then a lock and regular washer. I used those where the center plate connects to the tub but NOT the power unit. Was that OK? I mean, for $7.50 I can get another set if it will help.
2. That damned little screw. I had a hell of a time getting that back in yesterday. I think it compromised the gasket because today when I opened it up, the gasket had broken at that location and looked to me like that was at least one of the leak paths. So since Phil fills those in with rubber, could I fill those in, the hole in the Center Plate and the mating hole in the Power Unit, with sealant? So long as it's flush with the surface? It sounds like Phil uses the rubber thing as a plug and a plug is a plug? Rubber piece or sealant.
3. Since there was so much water in the rt.angle drive, should I redo my grease job where that meets the vertical drive?
4. The EBay transmission seemed to work fine but it was leaking oil from the pulley side of the worm gear. Should I attempt to repair that? The Service Manual shows washer, seal, washer, spring washer, washer, snap ring. Or is that asking for trouble? Do you think I'm safer just switching back to the original transmission? I have a little paranoia about getting that back in and then a recurrence of the mysterious locking up episodes.
I'd like to avoid a 3rd tear down if at all possible.Maybe one of these days I'll have a working washer. I think I'll go downstairs now and see if the Valdez has stopped dripping.
Thanks Guys!
my foul mood and I'm back on the case. I took it apart again. That goes faster every time. It looked to me like the pump wheel was making contact with the pulley so I'll check that out from below next time I have water in it? I might have gotten a bum pump or it is just an adjustment.
I had to disconnect the agitator activation shaft so during the re-install I'll do it correctly. But having them opposite really I could have lived with.
Took of the center plate and the trans was FULL of water. So not just some leak, we're talking BIG HONKIN' LEAK(S)! The thing looked like it was left over from Hurricane Katrina! The bottom side of the rubber gasket for the center plate was all wet so that tells me something. Next time I will raise it with the bottom bolt to level with the tub. Whether that's a 1/4" or more from the support frame to the bottom of the unit. I'll definitely need new gaskets. They both tore. So here's my list of questions.
1.Do I need to use another new set of new bolts? I used 2 of the set from Phil to connect the Center Plate to the Power Unit. I cranked those on pretty tightly and when I removed them that washer/rubber seal part stayed on. Then since I used those 2 there, I was 2 short for the tub installation. So for those 2 I used the same 1/2" bolt from Ace with a rubber washer, then a lock and regular washer. I used those where the center plate connects to the tub but NOT the power unit. Was that OK? I mean, for $7.50 I can get another set if it will help.
2. That damned little screw. I had a hell of a time getting that back in yesterday. I think it compromised the gasket because today when I opened it up, the gasket had broken at that location and looked to me like that was at least one of the leak paths. So since Phil fills those in with rubber, could I fill those in, the hole in the Center Plate and the mating hole in the Power Unit, with sealant? So long as it's flush with the surface? It sounds like Phil uses the rubber thing as a plug and a plug is a plug? Rubber piece or sealant.
3. Since there was so much water in the rt.angle drive, should I redo my grease job where that meets the vertical drive?
4. The EBay transmission seemed to work fine but it was leaking oil from the pulley side of the worm gear. Should I attempt to repair that? The Service Manual shows washer, seal, washer, spring washer, washer, snap ring. Or is that asking for trouble? Do you think I'm safer just switching back to the original transmission? I have a little paranoia about getting that back in and then a recurrence of the mysterious locking up episodes.
I'd like to avoid a 3rd tear down if at all possible.Maybe one of these days I'll have a working washer. I think I'll go downstairs now and see if the Valdez has stopped dripping.
Thanks Guys!
Your hilarious dude
I knew it would'nt get you down for too long LOL
Think we need Geoff for those questions, but one thing for sure is you have to get the water out of the right angle drive.
My vote is that you use to the P.U she was came with, but lets wait for Geoff to stop by!
What little screw are you all talking about?Do you have pics so we can see? (your probably sick of pics by now, but we enjoy them!)
I knew it would'nt get you down for too long LOL
Think we need Geoff for those questions, but one thing for sure is you have to get the water out of the right angle drive.
My vote is that you use to the P.U she was came with, but lets wait for Geoff to stop by!
What little screw are you all talking about?Do you have pics so we can see? (your probably sick of pics by now, but we enjoy them!)
e2l-arry
Well-known member
Yea, I'm hilarious all right!
I could hardly keep a lid on the hilarity last night! Gotta laugh to keep from crying!
Here's a pic of the infamous screw hole. Where the red nozzle is pointing. There are 2 bolts near the shaft that connect directly to the Power Unit, nothing to do with the tub. Then this goofy screw at the top that is nothing but trouble. And from what I'm hearing now, isn't even really necessary.
I could hardly keep a lid on the hilarity last night! Gotta laugh to keep from crying!
Here's a pic of the infamous screw hole. Where the red nozzle is pointing. There are 2 bolts near the shaft that connect directly to the Power Unit, nothing to do with the tub. Then this goofy screw at the top that is nothing but trouble. And from what I'm hearing now, isn't even really necessary.
Oh I see
WTH is it for? plug that thing up!
You got a pic of that rubber seal that went around the center plate?
Want to see why Geoff says not to use the cork!
How long did it take you to get it all apart!
WTH is it for? plug that thing up!
You got a pic of that rubber seal that went around the center plate?
Want to see why Geoff says not to use the cork!
How long did it take you to get it all apart!
Darn,
I am of no help to you but certainly am standing by you watching your every move. I knew you would not give up. However, it is always good to get away from things for a bit. I just looked at my 3 gals and the E has a black rubber plug in that hole and the other two have screws in them. I have no idea what they are for but the hole is filled as stated above. Geoff will be here soon to give you some help I am sure. He will know about this situation. I am wondering if the cork gasket rather than the rubber O ring type may have been the problem? I am told that the cork one was only used on the older models with the cast aluminum tub. Anyhow, you have a lot of support here but no help in person LOL. Good Luck Larry !!! Keep us informed as we all care !
Jim
I am of no help to you but certainly am standing by you watching your every move. I knew you would not give up. However, it is always good to get away from things for a bit. I just looked at my 3 gals and the E has a black rubber plug in that hole and the other two have screws in them. I have no idea what they are for but the hole is filled as stated above. Geoff will be here soon to give you some help I am sure. He will know about this situation. I am wondering if the cork gasket rather than the rubber O ring type may have been the problem? I am told that the cork one was only used on the older models with the cast aluminum tub. Anyhow, you have a lot of support here but no help in person LOL. Good Luck Larry !!! Keep us informed as we all care !
Jim
e2l-arry
Well-known member
Jim, I didn't use
the cork gasket. I bought that by mistake after looking at the parts manual. I didn't notice one gasket was labeled "old" and the other rubber one "new". Apparently the "new' one is designed for the spun aluminum tubs, which I have. And, here's the catch, if installed CORRECTLY does the job!
It only took me about 30 minutes to get the thing apart. After 4 hours yesterday putting it back together.
When I order another set of gaskets I'll ask Phil if he sells the rubber plugs. If not I'll plug it myself. I am convinced that was a big part of the problem. The other, incorrect alignment of the power unit / center plate. NOW I figure it out!
Stan, if you go upstream to the picture where I took out the first tub, on one of those pictures you'll see the rubber gasket laying on the floor under the skirt. I'ts just a big O-ring basically
the cork gasket. I bought that by mistake after looking at the parts manual. I didn't notice one gasket was labeled "old" and the other rubber one "new". Apparently the "new' one is designed for the spun aluminum tubs, which I have. And, here's the catch, if installed CORRECTLY does the job!
It only took me about 30 minutes to get the thing apart. After 4 hours yesterday putting it back together.
When I order another set of gaskets I'll ask Phil if he sells the rubber plugs. If not I'll plug it myself. I am convinced that was a big part of the problem. The other, incorrect alignment of the power unit / center plate. NOW I figure it out!
Stan, if you go upstream to the picture where I took out the first tub, on one of those pictures you'll see the rubber gasket laying on the floor under the skirt. I'ts just a big O-ring basically
geoffdelp
Well-known member
OK ... lots 'o questions; which is a good thing.
Phil does sell the rubber used to plug that screw hole; I learned it the hard way in reusing a screw without the lead washer; bad mistake. I caught mine, however, with oil shooting out everywhere; before I put the tub back on. Live and learn. Don't forget to tap the center plate securely in that area after placing the plug in; that center plate needs to sit flush to the power unit. That's where that little screw is very important; it also pulled the center plate down to the power unit making a good seal and without it, you will have to make sure that plate is all the way down to the power unit.
You are probably OK with the alignment of your tub to the center plate, Larry. Keep it at a quarter of inch if that's what the book says. It is apparent that the water got in from the center plate not being sufficiently water tight. Those bolts with the rubber washers are very, very important.
You can probably reuse what you have but order a couple more from Phil ... the short ones ... for the middle of the center plate. You tighten it down but don't over-tighten. Just take it to the point on the socket wrench where it's getting harder to tighten; don't crank on it.
Did you get the water out of the right angle drive? Probably going to be OK.
Could the leak from the seal by the flywheel have been caused by the water mixing with the oil? Those transmissions were not designed to hold water; only thick lubrication. Was it just a few drops or LOTS of oil dripping out? I've noticed that on my pink E, it has had water in the transmission, and that area leaked drops of black lubrication out; not a lot but enough to PO me! When the transmission fluid got changed, the leak stopped.
If you're uncomfortable with your original power unit, keep using this one. Clean it up (don't use hot water this time ... OK? ... only parts cleaner), re-gasket and try again.
I hope I'm helping you with my advice, Larry. I don't want you to have the Valdez in your basement shooting out Bosco!!
Wish I had a video tape or something to show you how to do this but I think you're going to get it. Just don't get PO'd; go slow ... you're very mechanically inclined.
Phil does sell the rubber used to plug that screw hole; I learned it the hard way in reusing a screw without the lead washer; bad mistake. I caught mine, however, with oil shooting out everywhere; before I put the tub back on. Live and learn. Don't forget to tap the center plate securely in that area after placing the plug in; that center plate needs to sit flush to the power unit. That's where that little screw is very important; it also pulled the center plate down to the power unit making a good seal and without it, you will have to make sure that plate is all the way down to the power unit.
You are probably OK with the alignment of your tub to the center plate, Larry. Keep it at a quarter of inch if that's what the book says. It is apparent that the water got in from the center plate not being sufficiently water tight. Those bolts with the rubber washers are very, very important.
You can probably reuse what you have but order a couple more from Phil ... the short ones ... for the middle of the center plate. You tighten it down but don't over-tighten. Just take it to the point on the socket wrench where it's getting harder to tighten; don't crank on it.
Did you get the water out of the right angle drive? Probably going to be OK.
Could the leak from the seal by the flywheel have been caused by the water mixing with the oil? Those transmissions were not designed to hold water; only thick lubrication. Was it just a few drops or LOTS of oil dripping out? I've noticed that on my pink E, it has had water in the transmission, and that area leaked drops of black lubrication out; not a lot but enough to PO me! When the transmission fluid got changed, the leak stopped.
If you're uncomfortable with your original power unit, keep using this one. Clean it up (don't use hot water this time ... OK? ... only parts cleaner), re-gasket and try again.
I hope I'm helping you with my advice, Larry. I don't want you to have the Valdez in your basement shooting out Bosco!!
Wish I had a video tape or something to show you how to do this but I think you're going to get it. Just don't get PO'd; go slow ... you're very mechanically inclined.
just looked at mine
and my E appears to have some kind of rubber plug in it like Jim's E! Never noticed it before had to poke around on it to see and feel!
I probably poked a hole in it trying to find out LOL
Also noticed that all the gulmite bolts have a rubber washer with the exception of the two that hold the P.U ??
So either they were not used there, or the edges of mine have disintegrated ?
Dose anyone know why the gulmite bolts should not be re used (with new rubbers) ?
Larry have you checked that agitator shaft seal (just to make sure)
Just brainstorming here, but what about wrapping the threads of each bolt with a little teflon tape (again just to make sure)
and my E appears to have some kind of rubber plug in it like Jim's E! Never noticed it before had to poke around on it to see and feel!
I probably poked a hole in it trying to find out LOL
Also noticed that all the gulmite bolts have a rubber washer with the exception of the two that hold the P.U ??
So either they were not used there, or the edges of mine have disintegrated ?
Dose anyone know why the gulmite bolts should not be re used (with new rubbers) ?
Larry have you checked that agitator shaft seal (just to make sure)
Just brainstorming here, but what about wrapping the threads of each bolt with a little teflon tape (again just to make sure)
e2l-arry
Well-known member
Hi Geoff
This power unit is the # 2 power unit, what I call the Ebay unit. This one was only cleaned with parts cleaner. I never used water to flush this one. I noticed something yesterday that there was an oil spot on the floor after I had run it without the tub. I was working on the washer in another part of the basement away from the laundry area. Better lighting. That spot was the dark color Bosco. Like the black oil you describe. Not at all the same color as the fresh oil I had just added. At first I wondered if it was a spot I missed cleaning from last week. So I wipe it up and run it again. Later another drop in the same spot. Dark like before. When I had the machine running wash, I did see a spot of the dark stuff under the pulley. Then later also with a lot of water. Then much clearer oil with lots of water in it was on the floor under the vent. So I don't know if the water flushed out the last of the old oil or if it will continue to leak from that shaft if I use it the #2 power unit again. I may gamble and use the original. Then run it for about an hour a couple of times without the tub to see if it locks up at all. Once I'm convinced it's good, put the tub back on. Of course I could do that with the #2 power unit to check for any more oil leaks by the pulley shaft. All these decisions!
When I order the new gaskets I'll ask about 4 more bolts and a rubber plug. I'm also thinking maybe I should change my sequence of putting it back together. Maybe I should fill it with oil and put the center plate back when it's still on the bench? Then I really have a better view of how evenly the plate covers the power unit.
This power unit is the # 2 power unit, what I call the Ebay unit. This one was only cleaned with parts cleaner. I never used water to flush this one. I noticed something yesterday that there was an oil spot on the floor after I had run it without the tub. I was working on the washer in another part of the basement away from the laundry area. Better lighting. That spot was the dark color Bosco. Like the black oil you describe. Not at all the same color as the fresh oil I had just added. At first I wondered if it was a spot I missed cleaning from last week. So I wipe it up and run it again. Later another drop in the same spot. Dark like before. When I had the machine running wash, I did see a spot of the dark stuff under the pulley. Then later also with a lot of water. Then much clearer oil with lots of water in it was on the floor under the vent. So I don't know if the water flushed out the last of the old oil or if it will continue to leak from that shaft if I use it the #2 power unit again. I may gamble and use the original. Then run it for about an hour a couple of times without the tub to see if it locks up at all. Once I'm convinced it's good, put the tub back on. Of course I could do that with the #2 power unit to check for any more oil leaks by the pulley shaft. All these decisions!
When I order the new gaskets I'll ask about 4 more bolts and a rubber plug. I'm also thinking maybe I should change my sequence of putting it back together. Maybe I should fill it with oil and put the center plate back when it's still on the bench? Then I really have a better view of how evenly the plate covers the power unit.
e2l-arry
Well-known member
Stan,
I did remove and reinspect and clean the agitator seal last week. It appeared to make a good seal when I put it back in.
I did remove and reinspect and clean the agitator seal last week. It appeared to make a good seal when I put it back in.
Geoff
I'm confused! (wouldn't be the first time)
is the rubber over the screw, or rubber under the screw? I don't see a screw in mine just see rubber?
And dose this screw (if present in the E model) actually serve a purpose, like helping to hold the center plate to the P.U (or P.U to center plate)
Can only imagine it's there to help with alignment, configuration, or something?
Also, is there a reason NOT to re use the same bolts, (in my case the gulmite) and what are your thoughts about using a little teflon tape on the threads of the bolts, prior to installation?
(sorry for all the questions Geoff) LOL
I'm confused! (wouldn't be the first time)
is the rubber over the screw, or rubber under the screw? I don't see a screw in mine just see rubber?
And dose this screw (if present in the E model) actually serve a purpose, like helping to hold the center plate to the P.U (or P.U to center plate)
Can only imagine it's there to help with alignment, configuration, or something?
Also, is there a reason NOT to re use the same bolts, (in my case the gulmite) and what are your thoughts about using a little teflon tape on the threads of the bolts, prior to installation?
(sorry for all the questions Geoff) LOL
G'morning all,
Coffee time again with you all. Stan, I have the same question about the rubber plug in my E and not in my J and N. So Geoff, should I buy a plug to put on top of my screws in the N and J or was this something added in later models? I am presuming that there is a screw in the E with a rubber plug on top of it?
I misunderstood you Larry about which gasket you used. Sorry !! I for one have learned a lot from you during this rebuild. And yes, you are very mechanically inclined. Can I borrow some of it from you? LOL
Keep plugging away and writing such detailed information here for all of us.
Good Luck !!!
Jim
Coffee time again with you all. Stan, I have the same question about the rubber plug in my E and not in my J and N. So Geoff, should I buy a plug to put on top of my screws in the N and J or was this something added in later models? I am presuming that there is a screw in the E with a rubber plug on top of it?
I misunderstood you Larry about which gasket you used. Sorry !! I for one have learned a lot from you during this rebuild. And yes, you are very mechanically inclined. Can I borrow some of it from you? LOL
Keep plugging away and writing such detailed information here for all of us.
Good Luck !!!
Jim
e2l-arry
Well-known member
If I got this right
You either have the plug OR the screw but you wouldn't have both. It sounds to me like some of the repair guys, or Maytag guys themselves figured out you really didn't need the screw to have a good seal. It was so much trouble that someone got creative and came up with a plug to keep water out and just said "screw the screw!"
Another idea came to me last night on where I might have messed up the P.U. to tub height adjustment. Prior to putting the P.U. back in, I had tightened down the vertical wringer assembly. Maybe I should have left that loose? That way when I adjust the height of the P.U. the entire assembly would float up or down since they're all tied together by the horizontal drive shaft. With the vertical drive held fast into place, it can't move but forcing the transmission to move it would only move at an angle. It did seem the gap was uneven when I put the tub in and, at the time couldn't figure out why. I mean, it's not like I had the washer parked on a hill. LOL! Am I onto something here or has this whole project sent me over the bend?
You either have the plug OR the screw but you wouldn't have both. It sounds to me like some of the repair guys, or Maytag guys themselves figured out you really didn't need the screw to have a good seal. It was so much trouble that someone got creative and came up with a plug to keep water out and just said "screw the screw!"
Another idea came to me last night on where I might have messed up the P.U. to tub height adjustment. Prior to putting the P.U. back in, I had tightened down the vertical wringer assembly. Maybe I should have left that loose? That way when I adjust the height of the P.U. the entire assembly would float up or down since they're all tied together by the horizontal drive shaft. With the vertical drive held fast into place, it can't move but forcing the transmission to move it would only move at an angle. It did seem the gap was uneven when I put the tub in and, at the time couldn't figure out why. I mean, it's not like I had the washer parked on a hill. LOL! Am I onto something here or has this whole project sent me over the bend?
geoffdelp
Well-known member
Hi Larry ... you're thinking is just fine; you haven't gone over the bend. You should leave the bolts loose for the wringer post; it will help you adjust the power unit/center plate. Once you have it where you think it needs to be, you tighten it down.
As far as putting the center plate on the power unit on the work bench; matter of preference, I suppose. I like to have the power unit on the machine because of the potential for oil spillage. It can happen quite easily if it's tilted the wrong way.
Larry's right, guys ... either the rubber plug or the screw; not both.
As far as putting the center plate on the power unit on the work bench; matter of preference, I suppose. I like to have the power unit on the machine because of the potential for oil spillage. It can happen quite easily if it's tilted the wrong way.
Larry's right, guys ... either the rubber plug or the screw; not both.
e2l-arry
Well-known member
Placed my order
with Phil today. I'm getting 6 more 1/2" bolts with the washer things attached, new gaskets and the rubber plug. He even sent a picture telling me what end to thread through, pull as tight as I can then cut it off flush to the surface on both ends.
I also heard back from Kevin the label guy from Ohio. He explained that with these old time labels you don't try and peel them off like I did. You place in water momentarily, then you SLIDE the label off the paper and apply. Everything modern is crack and peel so I messed it up. He said he'd split the cost of a new one with me and I thought that was very fair of him. I took him up on his offer.
I've been thinking I still want to use my same EBay power unit again. That one has no chipped teeth and the pinion gear is in better shape, although those are easily changed out. I think it ran better than the one it came with but to be fair, I haven't run that one since it was cleaned and had the loose metal bit removed. It really ran well except for the leak at the pulley shaft. But like Geoff said, once the new oil works through sometimes the leak stops. But that stuff that came out Saturday was pretty darn thick! I could fill it and run for an hour or so and evaluate? But, now here's an idea I got today. I might take that worm gear oil seal apart for cleaning and reassembly. It's just washer, seal, washer, spring washer, washer and snap ring. How hard can that be? If I hose it up, I still have another power unit. Nice to have a spare. Any thoughts?
Larry
with Phil today. I'm getting 6 more 1/2" bolts with the washer things attached, new gaskets and the rubber plug. He even sent a picture telling me what end to thread through, pull as tight as I can then cut it off flush to the surface on both ends.
I also heard back from Kevin the label guy from Ohio. He explained that with these old time labels you don't try and peel them off like I did. You place in water momentarily, then you SLIDE the label off the paper and apply. Everything modern is crack and peel so I messed it up. He said he'd split the cost of a new one with me and I thought that was very fair of him. I took him up on his offer.
I've been thinking I still want to use my same EBay power unit again. That one has no chipped teeth and the pinion gear is in better shape, although those are easily changed out. I think it ran better than the one it came with but to be fair, I haven't run that one since it was cleaned and had the loose metal bit removed. It really ran well except for the leak at the pulley shaft. But like Geoff said, once the new oil works through sometimes the leak stops. But that stuff that came out Saturday was pretty darn thick! I could fill it and run for an hour or so and evaluate? But, now here's an idea I got today. I might take that worm gear oil seal apart for cleaning and reassembly. It's just washer, seal, washer, spring washer, washer and snap ring. How hard can that be? If I hose it up, I still have another power unit. Nice to have a spare. Any thoughts?
Larry
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